Parts Catalog Accessories Catalog How To Articles Tech Forums
Call Pelican Parts at 888-280-7799
Shopping Cart Cart | Project List | Order Status | Help




Go Back   PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum > Do It Yourself Links & Resources > Bodywork - Repair, Paint, Tools, Tips & Tricks

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 11-19-2008, 04:19 PM
whunter's Avatar
Moderator
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Metro Detroit, Michigan
Posts: 17,350
REAR windshield seal W116, 123, 126

Notes and warnings...
This job requires 3 - 5 adult size helpers, pliers/razor, Philip's screwdriver, pliers, clothesline, and dish soap.
There should be NO cracks in the glass you plan to use, they generally will expand or the glass can stress and explode.
The seal should be replaced in a WARM location 70F is recommended, this is for seal flexibility and seating.
The body/seal mounting lip MUST be CLEAN, no dirt, old sealer, etc.
Your hands should be clean and dry, for maximum gripping ability.
The glass REAR windshield mounting lip/seal area MUST be CLEAN, no dirt, old sealer, etc.
This rear windshield seal procedure should function for the following chassis:
W201, 199, 198, 191, 189, 188, 187, 186, 180, 136, 128, 126, 123, 116, 115, 114, 113, 112, 111, 110, 109, 108, 107, 105, 100.
(there will be minor differences on the oldest chassis).
.................................................................................................



Procedure:

#1. remove the right and left rear paneling with cut-out for safety belt.

#2. Locate the rear windshield defogger connections middle of left and right C pillar, and disconnect them.
pic_1_rthdrhd.JPG

#3. From inside the rear passenger compartment, very carefully with pliers, pinch/nibble the old/hard seal, roughly 7/16 wide bites, (if the old seal is still soft you can use a razor knife to slice it away from the body/seal mounting lip.
Note: the inner seal lip must be removed from the top, and sides as close as you can get to the bottom of the windshield.
pic_2_rthdrhd.JPG
pic_3_rthdrhd.JPG

#4. Place a quilt or other thick cloth padding larger than the glass on the roof, or a totally empty work bench.
pic_4_rthdrhd.JPG

#5. This step requires at least three people, one in the back seat gently pushing out, two outside catching and lifting out the glass.
pic_5_rthdrhd.JPG

#6. Place the rear windshield on the quilt inside surface up.
pic_4_rthdrhd.JPG

#7. Remove the old seal from glass.

#8. Remove the trim from the seal, rolling the seal apart to not damage or deform your trim.

#9. Clean the body/seal mounting lip and glass mounting lip/seal area = no dirt, old sealer, etc.
Note: I prefer cloth rags and a good supply of clean water, no detergents/cleaners.
EDIT: I apply a light coat of plumbers putty to the body/seal mounting lip and glass mounting lip/seal area, it is almost the same composition as the MB sealer for 1/75 of the cost.

#10. Install the new seal to the glass.

#11. Exercising great care, flip over the windshield.

#11. Spread dish soap into the trim groove.

#12. Spread dish soap on the windshield trim barb.

#13. Install the window trim to the new seal.

#14. Install clothesline into the body/seal mounting lip groove with four - five inch overlap in the Bottom Center of glass seal, leave several feet of extra cord out beyond the overlap for hand pulling...
pic_6_rthdrhd.JPG
pic_7_rthdrhd.JPG

#15. pull the headliner over the upper lip seal area, and glue in place with trim adhesive.

#16. Gently lift the glass/seal/trim assembly.

#17. Insert the lower glass seal over the body lip, and gently lean the assembly against the window area.

#18. At least two assistants must gently press down and in on the glass while you pull the cords out evenly.
pic_8_rthdrhd.JPG
pic_9_rthdrhd.JPG

#19. The seal lip should roll open as the cord pulls out = allowing the seal to seat to the body.

#20. Use instrument cluster hooks to seat the outer perimeter of the seal.
pic_10_rthdrhd.JPG

#21. gently press/thump any trim areas not fully seated.

#22. Install the rear windshield defogger connections middle of left and right C pillar.

#23. Install the right and left rear paneling with cut-out for safety belt.


Additional drawings in post #2.
Attached Thumbnails
REAR windshield seal W116, 123, 126-pic_1_rthdrhd.jpg   REAR windshield seal W116, 123, 126-pic_2_rthdrhd.jpg   REAR windshield seal W116, 123, 126-pic_3_rthdrhd.jpg   REAR windshield seal W116, 123, 126-pic_4_rthdrhd.jpg   REAR windshield seal W116, 123, 126-pic_5_rthdrhd.jpg  


Last edited by whunter; 05-01-2012 at 10:49 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 11-19-2008, 04:19 PM
whunter's Avatar
Moderator
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Metro Detroit, Michigan
Posts: 17,350
Additional drawings post #2.

Additional drawings post #2.
Attached Thumbnails
REAR windshield seal W116, 123, 126-pic_6_rthdrhd.jpg   REAR windshield seal W116, 123, 126-pic_7_rthdrhd.jpg   REAR windshield seal W116, 123, 126-pic_8_rthdrhd.jpg   REAR windshield seal W116, 123, 126-pic_9_rthdrhd.jpg   REAR windshield seal W116, 123, 126-pic_10_rthdrhd.jpg  


Last edited by whunter; 12-05-2008 at 04:24 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 12-10-2008, 11:58 AM
Bill Wood's Avatar
Retired Webmaster
 
Join Date: Mar 1999
Location: Johns Creek, GA, USA
Posts: 5,013
Thumbs up It's in the Wiki

This DIY is now in our DIY Wiki HERE.

Thanks Roy!
__________________
Bill Wood - Retired Webmaster
My Personal Website
1998 Mercedes E430
2010 Toyota Sequoia
My Photo Albums
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 12-10-2008, 12:05 PM
Dee8go's Avatar
Senor User
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Arlington, VA
Posts: 7,188
Thanks, Bill. I'm considering trying this on my SEC. Just the removal part, not reinstallation.
__________________
" The market, like the Lord, helps those who help themselves. But, unlike the Lord, the market does not forgive those who know not what they do."- Warren Buffett

OBK #55

1998 Lincoln Continental - Sold
Max 1984 300TD 285,000 miles - Sold
The Dee8gonator 1987 560SEC 196,000 miles - Sold
Orgasmatron - 2006 CLS500 25,000 miles
2002 C320 Wagon 113,000 miles
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 07-25-2010, 11:42 PM
Registered Hack
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 4,612
ok Roy,


I am lost. On the old seal and on the frame, there are tons of this clay-like gray sealant that is not water soluble. You do not mention using any sealant during the install.

Can I install the rear window without any sealant?

this is for w201. 1984
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 07-26-2010, 01:22 PM
whunter's Avatar
Moderator
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Metro Detroit, Michigan
Posts: 17,350
Yes

Quote:
Originally Posted by jt20 View Post
OK Roy,


I am lost. On the old seal and on the frame, there are tons of this clay-like gray sealant that is not water soluble. You do not mention using any sealant during the install.

Can I install the rear window without any sealant?

this is for w201. 1984
A light coat of plumbers putty.
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 07-26-2010, 02:06 PM
Registered Hack
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 4,612
yes!!

that is exactly what it feels like.

Perfect, thank you.
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 08-15-2010, 04:03 AM
Stretch's Avatar
Gettin' outa chokey
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Between a rock and a hard place (Back in Holland at the moment)
Posts: 13,986
I'd like to ask what may seem like a stupid question about sealant.

You guys state here that sealant is not needed - but in the FSM it says that you should use it, and the following thread is a "special order thread" for the sealant:-

where to find Windshield sealant, non-hardening type...

So can someone confirm whether sealant should be used or not?

Is it just a case that in dry parts of the world it isn't necessary?

I live in the wet so I plan to use sealant.

If I were to go for 3M products would this be the correct sort of thing?

http://www3.3m.com/catalog/us/en001/home_leisure/-/node_GSJ9WN519Mgs/root_GS2MT8MCQBgv/vroot_BWFLZ648DFge/bgel_SVHVD0DQNZbl/gvel_V81136SWNHgl/theme_us_chimpartnersupport_3_0/command_AbcPageHandler/output_html
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!

Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 08-15-2010, 04:11 AM
Stretch's Avatar
Gettin' outa chokey
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Between a rock and a hard place (Back in Holland at the moment)
Posts: 13,986
Sorry found some more sealant links. Are these any good?

http://www.caswellplating.com/permatex/permsealants.html

and

http://www.goldtown-phils.com/adhesive/sealants.htm

The Zwaluw Auto Sealant is at least going to be easier to get here in Holland...
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!

Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 08-15-2010, 01:34 PM
whunter's Avatar
Moderator
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Metro Detroit, Michigan
Posts: 17,350
Answer

Quote:
Originally Posted by Army View Post
I'd like to ask what may seem like a stupid question about sealant.

You guys state here that sealant is not needed - but in the FSM it says that you should use it, and the following thread is a "special order thread" for the sealant:-

where to find Windshield sealant, non-hardening type...

So can someone confirm whether sealant should be used or not?

Is it just a case that in dry parts of the world it isn't necessary?

I live in the wet so I plan to use sealant.

If I were to go for 3M products would this be the correct sort of thing?
Never use any rubberized/silicone sealer.

You can order the MB# or buy a tub of Plumbers Putty at 1/4 the cost.
#1. Make a 3 MM diameter string of putty along the outer face of the body mounting flange.
#2. Smear the putty string on the body mounting flange, as a surface coating for the gasket.
#3. Make a 3 MM diameter string of putty, feeding it into the Body mounting slot.
#4. Make a 3 MM diameter string of putty, feeding it into the GLASS mounting slot.
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 03-26-2011, 11:56 AM
Stretch's Avatar
Gettin' outa chokey
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Between a rock and a hard place (Back in Holland at the moment)
Posts: 13,986
I've recently removed the rear and front window on my W123 and I'm left with a putty removal problem... if it is soaked for ages in water it appears to be more willing to be removed - but this is only really practical on the lower edges of the window lip as the water can pool there.

Has anyone got any tips for a faster way of removing this putty? Sand paper kind of works but it clogs up quickly <= Only do this if you are repainting anyway!
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!

Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

Last edited by Stretch; 03-26-2011 at 11:57 AM. Reason: I added a question mark
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 03-26-2011, 05:18 PM
Yak Yak is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: San Antonio, TX
Posts: 1,711
Heat gun?

Or soaking rags draped onto the putty?
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 03-26-2011, 05:21 PM
whunter's Avatar
Moderator
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Metro Detroit, Michigan
Posts: 17,350
Suggestion

Quote:
Originally Posted by Army View Post
I've recently removed the rear and front window on my W123 and I'm left with a putty removal problem... if it is soaked for ages in water it appears to be more willing to be removed - but this is only really practical on the lower edges of the window lip as the water can pool there.

Has anyone got any tips for a faster way of removing this putty? Sand paper kind of works but it clogs up quickly <= Only do this if you are repainting anyway!
Use the steam function of an old clothing iron.
Takes a while, but it does the job.
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 03-27-2011, 02:51 AM
Stretch's Avatar
Gettin' outa chokey
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Between a rock and a hard place (Back in Holland at the moment)
Posts: 13,986
Thank you very much for the tips - I ended up using a flat blade screw driver and wire wool on the car (sounds terrible I know) but there was no way I was going to try that on my tinted glass...

I'll give your ideas a go on the glass and report back - thanks again.
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!

Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 10-12-2011, 10:28 PM
RML RML is offline
Out of Garage Space
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Southwest PA
Posts: 1,016
Thanks for this DIY write-up Roy. I read it over but I do not think that I need to pull out my rear window to fix a small leak I have in the lower right side. (What I see is some drops of water in the trunk when it is raining.) I had leaks in the lower corners of my front windshield and what I did was get the non hardening MB windshield caulking. I was able to slip the flat nozzle under the windshield gasket, pump in the caulking and it solved the problem beautifully.

I would like to do the same with the rear windshield but there is no room to get the nozzle under the gasket. Can I take out the chrome trim, which I assume is holding everything tight, get some caulking under the gasket, then replace the chrome trim? Before I start to pry, pull and possibly do some damage, I thought it would be wise to ask for some advice from someone that has had this apart.

Richard
__________________
85 300D 71K Anthracite Grey (Rutherford) 0-60 in 13 seconds
84 300D 331K Black (Rufus) 0-60 in 14 seconds (adjusted the ALDA)
00 Toyota Sienna 208K (Sold)
15 Subaru Outback 17K
98 Ford Taurus 62K (Gertie - Was Grandma's - drove it to church and shopping - really)
30 Model A Ford 2 Door Sedan (Sold) 0-60 in . . . Never reached 60
Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On




All times are GMT -4. The time now is 06:48 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2018, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2018 Pelican Parts, LLC - Posts may be archived for display on the Peach Parts or Pelican Parts Website -    DMCA Registered Agent Contact Page