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Single phase for 3 phase motor - pillar drill
G'day Folks,
I've been blessed! I was at the place where I do some voluntary work and they happed to be doing a clear out and I got given this. ![]() It is a bit rusty so I'll have to clean it up a bit - but the biggest fix I need to make is to convert it so that it can run on single phase electrickery. I've found a few links for doing this Making Three-Phase Machines Work in a One-Phase Shop SINGLE to 3 PHASE CONVERTER But does anyone have any experience with this sort of thing? Is it really worthwhile trying to get the 3 phase motor running on single phase? Would it be better to try and get a single phase replacement motor instead?
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior ![]() Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#2
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i would replace the motor for sure
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have no worries.....President Obama swears "If you like your gun, you can keep it ![]() |
#3
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Thanks - that's one nail in the 3 phase motor's coffin then.
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior ![]() Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#4
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Its easy. I know 3-phase well. But I will tell you this, with a motor you will increase your amperage demand when you go to single. So yes, I agree that replacing the motor may be best.
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1991 560 SEL / 185k miles 1992 750il / 17k miles - project car |
#5
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Quote:
![]() It states that it is a 3 phase motor but then it says that it can have a 220V supply. I'm guessing that that's a 220V 3-phase supply but as a European motor (I can only get hits on Google for this motor type on German websites) that's a bit of nonsense as we don't have that... ...we've got 220V single phase supply here and (about) 380V 3 phase I think. Here's a picture of the wiring - perhaps this makes more sense to you. ![]() Can you tell me if I can use this motor with a single phase supply? I'm guessing not - but just in case I thought I'd check before I zoom off and hunt down a single phase replacement.
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior ![]() Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#6
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#7
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Should be able to find a 110 single phase motor really cheap or free. Even a quarter horse is good enough for average use on a drill press that size.
In Canada we have 208V three phase as well. Try to get a standard 1725rpm motor. Put the smallest pulley on it that will be serviceable. Since there are no 300 plus volt single phase motors anywhere that I am aware of it has to be a three phase motor on that basis alone. I would try to source a used furnace fan motor as they have an adjustable ratio pulley. |
#8
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Thanks for the help folks.
I asked the same questions on metalmeet and I got lots of advice about VFDs variable frequency drives and a "Stienmetz connection" PLCS.net - Interactive Q & A - View Single Post - choosing capacitor when translate 3 phase AC motor into single phase
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior ![]() Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#9
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Quote:
Since you said you've got 380V three phase, just hook it up in a Y (wye) connection and be done with it. http://www.specpower.com/engineering_tools.aspx
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Cruise Control not working? Send me PM or email (jamesdean59@gmail.com). I might be able to help out. Check here for compatibility, diagnostics, and availability! (4/11/2020: Hi Everyone! I am still taking orders and replying to emails/PMs/etc, I appreciate your patience in these crazy times. Stay safe and healthy!) 82 300SD 145k 89 420SEL 210k 89 560SEL 118k 90 300SE 262k RIP 5/25/2010 90 560SEL 154k 91 300D 2.5 Turbo. 241k 93 190E 3.0 235k 93 300E 195k |
#10
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More data for other members
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#11
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I have a brand new 3 phase inverter sitting in a box in the garage. I used it for my 3 phase lift once before switching to a rotary inverter. It's the static type with a capacitor.
I'd cut you a heck of a deal on it.
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With best regards Al |
#12
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Quote:
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior ![]() Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#13
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I'm sending a PM out of curiosity - thanks!
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior ![]() Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#14
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Update and a question
I went down the replacement motor route and I think I have something that will do the job - however it has turned up with a silver cigar tube attached by a single wire to it...
I don't know what it is! It is made by Bosch though and has this part number on it 0 670 312 351 Here's a picture ![]() From the units on it it looks like it could just be a big capacitor (Farads)...
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior ![]() Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! Last edited by Stretch; 04-26-2012 at 11:02 AM. Reason: Added a picture |
#15
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Yup. That's a starter cap. Electricity is a realm populated by wizards wielding big balls of white lightning as far as I am concerned but my understanding is the cap "stores" and releases a charge greater than the existing line current for the higher torque requirements of initial start up of the motor.
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