Removing tint from rear defrost lines and reapplying new tint - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Chad300tdt · #1 08-31-2008, 09:30 PM

The tint on my hatch window had some scratches that cut through the tint. There are defrost lines on the window and I thought I'd post a safe way to remove the tint without damaging them.

Here's the old tint with scratches.

Here's what I used for the removal process. Dentaured alcohol, terry towels, shop towels, gloves, plastic bags, and duct tape.

Make a cover out of the bags about the size of the window. Then wet the shop towels with the denatured alcohol. Use the bag to tape the towels up against the window to soften the adhesive layer in the old tint film. This allows the alcohol to work without evaporating too quickly. Make sure you have PLENTY of ventilation. I forgot to take a pic with the bag holding the towels up.

After about 10 minutes, pull the bag and rags down and start pulling the tint off from a corner. Keep an alcohol soaked terry towel to wipe the adhesive layer as you pull the tint off. If the tint separates from the clear plastic layer or the defrost lines lift, you need to soak the tint with the rags longer. You can just hold the terry towel in the problem spot for a minute and start pulling again. It should come off fairly clean. Just pull steadily and allow the film to pull off the glass with the adhesive layer still attached to the tint film. Some of the adhesive will be left on the window, but the denatured alcohol will clean it off easily without damaging the defrost lines.

Old tint removed:

Here are the tools needed for tint application. Scissors, razor blade, spray bottle with tint application fluid (mixed with distilled water), tint, and a good tinting squeegee.

First clean the inside and outside of the window TWICE with the tint application fluid. Then cut the tint to the general shape of the window, but oversize.

Then spray the application fluid to the outside of the window and squeegee the tint to the window so you can cut the exact shape needed carefully with a razor blade. This is done with the adhesive size toward you with the protective film layer still intact.

Once you have the shape the way you want it, get a helper to assist you with removing the protective film layer. You don't want to kink the film and you need 3 or 4 hands to do this properly. Spray the inside of the window thoroughly with the application fluid. Using a piece of tape on both sides of the tinting film, pull the protective layer apart from the tint. Spray the adhesive side of the tint film with the application fluid as you remove the protective film. This will activate the adhesive and keep static from building up.

Then apply the tint to the inside of the window, adhesive side toward the glass, and position it properly. Since everything is wet with the application fluid, the tint will slip around easily. Then carefully squeegee all the water and air bubbles out from under the film. Start in the center and work everything to the edges. Make sure to keep the film wet with the application fluid so the squeegee glides smoothly on the film.

Once all the water and bubbles are swiped out from under the tint, you're done. Just allow a few days for the tint adhesive to cure. If this is a window that rolls up and down, give it a week before opening and closing it.

All Done

H-townbenzoboy · #2 08-31-2008, 10:29 PM

Nice work!

Chad300tdt · #3 08-31-2008, 10:40 PM

Thanks.

bob_98sr5 · #4 09-01-2008, 12:29 AM

chad,

ive tried twice to tint my windows, both times in the garage to keep out wind and dust bunnies...and dust public hairs

You know what im talking about. anyways, I've tried to spray the hell out of the tint and windows to elimnate both, but I've always had some left over. whats your secret?

Chad300tdt · #5 09-01-2008, 12:51 AM

The only time I've had an issue with dust specs is when I tried to peel the protective film layer off without spraying it with the application fluid as the film came off. The tint acts like a static cling magnet when you pull the film off dry. This is why I use a helper when I pull the film off. There is no way I can pull the film off myself while spraying it and not letting it touch anything or get kinks in it.

I also clean the glass twice with the application fluid. I mix my application fluid using less distilled water than recommended too. I like the solution to be thicker. I think it floats the tint better and it's possible to actually push dust out from under the tint in some cases. It also makes it easier to lift the tint after initial inspection if you do find a hair or dust spec that needs to be picked out. I lightly squeegee the tint down and look for flaws. If I see any, I deal with them before continuing. The more water you wipe out, the harder it becomes to lift the film if needed.

Mike D · #6 09-01-2008, 08:23 AM

Check with your local DMV before tinting your rear window. Many states require a "second" or passenger side exterior mirror ( Chad has one) if the tint is beyond a certain percentage.

Dee8go · #7 09-09-2008, 07:56 AM

Nice, Chad. I appreciate your documentation of your repair projects. It's obvious that you're an artist. I'm going to attempt to replace some of the tint on my 300TD one of these days when I get some time.

Chad300tdt · #8 09-09-2008, 08:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dee8go

Nice, Chad. I appreciate your documentation of your repair projects. It's obvious that you're an artist. I'm going to attempt to replace some of the tint on my 300TD one of these days when I get some time.

Thanks Dee8go, allow more time than you think. I always end up zoning out when I do stuff like this, and I lose track of time. I spent way more time than I should have squeegeeing the tint (it's the step that's most fun IMO

).

Dee8go · #9 09-09-2008, 10:29 AM

And judging from the tint that's on there now, not always done sufficiently. A lot of mine has huge bubbles in it. It was done by a PO.

Chad300tdt · #10 09-09-2008, 10:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dee8go

And judging from the tint that's on there now, not always done sufficiently. A lot of mine has huge bubbles in it. It was done by a PO.

Does it look purple too.

Sounds like cheap tint with weak adhesive ... or they didn't use enough application fluid to activate the adhesive properly.

Dee8go · #11 09-09-2008, 10:56 AM

No, it's not purple. It just wasn't applied properly. It looks like they were in too big a hurry and just didn't take the time to squeegee the bubbles out. I just need to redo a couple of the windows.

Dee8go · #12 09-09-2008, 11:40 AM

Hey, Chad, have you ever put tint on to a curved rear window before? Flat windows are one thing, but I don't know how you get that on a sloping curved window straight and without bubbles.

Chad300tdt · #13 09-09-2008, 01:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dee8go

Hey, Chad, have you ever put tint on to a curved rear window before? Flat windows are one thing, but I don't know how you get that on a sloping curved window straight and without bubbles.

If you are really good you can put it on with one piece of tint by shaping it on the outside of the window first with a heat gun to shrink it to the proper shape.

I'm not that good, so I do them with strips of tint. The more dramatic the curve is, the more horizontal strips you need to accommodate the curve.

Dee8go · #14 09-09-2008, 05:21 PM

That extreme angle at the bottom looks like a killer to me. Even if I could deal with the compound curves and angles, I don't think I'd be able to get my hands into that tiny little space.