What is an emulsifying material/product that will remove the sticky remaining adhesive from the inside of rear window - without damaging the electronic rear window defogger? Had a school sticker back there for over 10 years, and now having to remove and deal with the residue, afraid using a razor blade will harm the electronic matting on the inside of the window. Car is a 99 Mercedes-Benz E300. Appreciate any helpul tips here!

When I bought my 210 it had adhesive residue all over the rear window from where someone removed window film.

I tried lots of things, but what finally worked was 3M adhesive remover, poured onto a clean terrycloth rag folded in 4ths. Awful stuff, you need lots of ventilation and no nearby ignition sources, but it will work, and work very well.

Do not spill it on anything.

Good luck.

Hete's a pic of the stuff, it's actually in one of the tech articles here for removing emblems, decals, etc.

A product like "Goo Gone" (available at places like Wal Mart) will also work very well, as it is intended for just this purpose.

^^^ I can't speak to the adhesive with which the OP is dealing, but Goo Gone worked no better than window cleaner when I tried it against the film adhesive in my car.

Correct.

Already tried that stuff. This is going to need a solvent to chemically melt the stickiness. The 3M solvent above was something that I didn't know about. Thanks.

I had really good results using a razor to scrape off the peeling tint on my back windows. I cleaned up the adhesive using gasoline on a paper towel. I then followed up with Windex until all of the gasoline residue was gone.

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1991 F250 super-cab 7.3 IDI. (rebuilt by me) Banks Sidewinder turbo, hydroboost brakes, new IP and injectors.
2003 S430 - 107K
1983 300SD - Tanoshii - mostly restored ~400K+.
1983 300SD - Good interior. Engine finally tamed ~250K.
Monark Nozzle Install Video - http://tinyurl.com/ptd2tge

Denatured alcohol.

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2006 Nissan Pathfinder LE
1998 Acura 3.0 CL
OBK#44
"Pleasure in the job puts perfection in the work." - Aristotle (384-322 B.C.)

SOLD
1985 300TD - Red Dragon
1986 300SDL - Coda
1991 - 300TE
1995 - E320
1985 300CD - Gladys

Try mineral oil (baby oil).

Denatured alcohol or acetone or even MEK if you can get your hands on some. Be careful in that space with those volatiles!

Phil Forrest

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1972 220D "Trudy," named by a friend.

"The 220D sounds good... I suspect it is the only car that you need a calendar for, rather than a stopwatch, when doing acceleration tests."
Tom Abrahamsson

Researched the removal of a college decal from the rear window of my 1995 300D. I was about to try the 3M remover suggested here, when my mechanic handed me a can of sosmetal's "Glass Clear". (They also make a really excellent rust penetrant.) I had tried "Goo Be Gone" and several other advertised glue removers without success. I was doubtful about the efficacy of this one, based on the recommendations for some heavy-duty solvents in this thread. However, it worked beautifully. Spray it on, let it foam up, and wipe the foam off. Took two or three sprays on some of the glue, but much of it came off on the first rub. I recommend it highly.

Most of the decal needs to be removed for it to work quickly, so I carefully scraped off the decal that had not been placed on the rear window defroster wires. For the remaining decal sections, I sprayed Glass Clear on and let it sit for a while. When I returned, I was able to lift an edge of the remaining pieces and pull it off, then sprayed again to remove the remaining glue.

Word of warning, carefully cover the rear parcel shelf with towels since the spray can discolor the material.

Tom G