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  #1  
Old 08-26-2002, 01:03 PM
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Location: San Diego, Ca
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Good wax for not so good paint?

I decided to give my 82 a thorough waxing this weekend. It has a clear coat that isn't doing well. Some fading on the hood and alot on the roof and trunk lid. After much elbow grease and trying McGuire's polishing wax in the bottle, same brand but in a can, and some clear coat wax from a bottle totally about 5 coats, the hood is looking pretty darn good. I tried the same on the roof, however, and was getting swirls. I know I can purchase swirl removing waxes and I'll do that for sure. My question is if any of you have any recommendations on waxes to help restore worn finishes. I'm not looking for a miracle, but it already looks much much better with just the work I've done so far. I'm basically just trying to buy time before I repaint the car one of these years.

Frank.

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  #2  
Old 08-26-2002, 01:29 PM
jcd jcd is offline
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Try below and you may want to post in the detailing forum

Link below, really pretty good,, http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/LeesDetailingFaq

Go to meguiars.com and try their paint RX. I believe there is a link in the detailing forum.

Call meguiars,,,,,they are really very helpful.


JCD
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  #3  
Old 08-26-2002, 02:32 PM
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That's a good idea, I'll post over there. If anyone here has had a personal experience with some product I'm all ears.

Frank
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  #4  
Old 08-26-2002, 03:30 PM
jcd jcd is offline
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Frank.....

Here's what I use.

1. Meguiars car wash detergent (cleaning)
2. Mother's clay bar (removal of surface contaminants)
3. Meguiars Scratch-X - should help with scratches/swirls
4. Meguiars Polish
5. Meguiars Gold Wax
6. Mother's professional detailer, spray

Work's great. Between major waxes I use Meguiars quick wax and the Mothers professional detailer.

JCD
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  #5  
Old 04-28-2006, 01:41 AM
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Anyone have any new ideas or products you have had good luck with?

I waxed mine tonight and it seemed to make things worse kinda. I just want to make it look better and protect the paint.

My paint is not fading yet but seems ruff to the hand and not smooth.
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  #6  
Old 04-28-2006, 03:22 AM
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Black Cars

My 300SD's paint has seen better days. When I first bought it I figured I would have to repaint it. I was actually able to restore the finish to an acceptable finish by using a colored wax product. Colored waxes really only work on black cars. When I wax the 300SD I do it in several layers allowing the wax to rest a day in between. I start with a cleaner wax then do the colored wax and then move onto a high gloss glaze product. The black wax eliminates a lot of the scratches and chips in the paints surface. I think my car looks pretty good for a 24 year old car. While black cars are a bit of a pain for swirl marks they are great for hiding scratches and chips.

http://beostar.paunix.org/newmbzpics
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  #7  
Old 04-28-2006, 06:49 AM
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3M imperial hand glaze works excellent to restore dull or oxidised paint. Afterward then the paint needs to be sealed with regular car wax. It's available at automotive paint stores. About $14 does 3 full size cars.
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  #8  
Old 04-28-2006, 08:42 AM
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I would also consider Meguiars Body Scrub, followed up with polish and/or wax. My SD (gone now) used to have a similiar looking finish... Body Scrub really seemed to help pull out the dirt deep in the finish.
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  #9  
Old 04-28-2006, 08:44 AM
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For sure Turtle Wax is nearly worthless compared to McGuire's - at least in terms of ability to last on the car. McG still beads water a YEAR later, TW is doing good to bead a month.

What MB cars had clear coat in 1982? Certain colors only?

Ken300D
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  #10  
Old 04-28-2006, 08:51 AM
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What your looking for is Carnouba Wax. The more the better.
It also happens to be expensive so the products that have more of it will cost more.

danny
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  #11  
Old 04-28-2006, 10:24 AM
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It's about the process, not products.

Guys, the best wax in the world isn't going to make failed paint look good. That's a reality. It's the steps required prior to waxing that will make or break a beautiful finish.

Restoring a horrid, ill-maintained surface can require hours and often mandates the attention of a professional. Some of these guys truly are miracle workers...seek one out in your neighborhood that has a good reputation. Don't take your car to a hacker for defect-correction.
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  #12  
Old 04-28-2006, 11:29 AM
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nu finish in the orange bottlw takes off the oxidation. makes brownie look good. did it last fall and again last week after winter cleaning.
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  #13  
Old 04-28-2006, 07:31 PM
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Wax doesn't do anything, it just protects the paint. If your paint is currantly nice and shiney just wax. If it needs help well wax is like step 5 you are skipping a few.

There are various compounds out their, Griots has 4. Depending on how bad your paint is you may only need to use 1, or maybe 2-3.

Buff with a machine, hand polishing is a waste of time.

But even before you polish, you need to clay the paint. Step 1 is wash the car step 2 is clay the paint. After those two steps you are ready to go at the paint with a buffer.

Once the paint is up to spec apply two coats of wax.

Their is no fast way to bring tired old paint back, it requires lots of work. My SDL was pretty dull when I bought it and now the finish is a mile deep.
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  #14  
Old 04-29-2006, 05:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken300D
For sure Turtle Wax is nearly worthless compared to McGuire's - at least in terms of ability to last on the car. McG still beads water a YEAR later, TW is doing good to bead a month.

What MB cars had clear coat in 1982? Certain colors only?

Ken300D

My 82 300SD is black and does not appear to have a clear coat. I have seen blue and silver cars with peeling clear coat. Personally I hate clear coats. I think its a conspiracy with the paint and car makers so you have to either repaint or buy a new car every 7-10 years.
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  #15  
Old 04-29-2006, 06:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rchase
I think its a conspiracy with the paint and car makers so you have to either repaint or buy a new car every 7-10 years.
Yes, that makes sense.

Virtually everything receives clearcoat from the factory today, even non-metallic paintwork. It's partially an EPA thing...it controls long-term off-gassing of the paint back into the environment.

Paints are thinner today, clearcoat is required to protect those fancy paint jobs and keep them looking good for years to come.

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