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  #46  
Old 09-06-2006, 12:44 PM
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I used a $4 one man brake bleeder from fleet farm- simple piece of hose with a one way check valve on one end-

open bleeder, slide hose on bleeder, place other end of hose in container to catch fluid,pump brakes-close bleeder. repeat 3 times. worked fine on several cars.

but now i'm gonna have to build one of these power bleeders.

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  #47  
Old 03-10-2007, 09:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wes Bender View Post
I vaguely remember seeing somewhere a brake bleeder that runs a line to one of the tires to obtain air pressure.

Wes
I believe the product you are referring to is either EeziBleed or Speedi-Bleed. The former has a smaller bottle, and no pressure regulator, while Speedi-Bleed quality and price-wise is probably more suited for professional repair shop use, though they do have small specialty kits on their website. I have the Speedi-Bleed Euro kit which cost me $109, I know you can purchase other pressure brake bleeder products for less, but with a very nice quality pressure regulator, quick release coupling, aluminum adapter, tool case, and free shipping, for my money while not being the lowest price, it was the best value. Plus the tool just works fantastic. I found the Speedi-Bleed brake bleeder at http://www.speedibleed.com
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  #48  
Old 10-02-2011, 01:16 AM
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FYI

Warning: Over-stroking the master cylinder may cause it to fail.

This can happen to even the most experienced mechanic, "Especially" on a high mileage car.
The old school manual brake pedal "down" - "up" - "down" - "up" bleed method risks over-stroking the master cylinder.
The master cylinder piston seals can get scored if they're pushed into a normally unused - corroded, region of the master cylinder's bore.
If this happens, you'll have little or no brake pedal, and will need a new master cylinder.
I strongly recommend using a pressure bleeder to avoid the issue.

Last edited by whunter; 10-02-2011 at 01:41 AM.
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  #49  
Old 10-02-2011, 02:03 PM
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If, on the other hand, one does not have a pressure bleeder...
The method used for a century works if one rule is learned by the person in charge...
THE ONE RULE :::::
*****************************************
It is the person at the bleeder nipple who is totally in charge of the distance the master cylinder piston is allowed to travel.
*****************************************
Be sure to use a brush to get the dirt from the bleeder nipple.
A small hand toothbrush type brass bristle is ideal...

Then open the nipple to make sure it is not stuck. This is WITHOUT any pressure or movement at the brake pedal...
This is just prep so you know what to expect on turning pressure.
Use a solid closed end ( box ) wrench of the proper size for the nipple.
Do not use a ratchet mechanism of any sort because you can not reverse your pressure fast enough.

I have a proper size box end which I have bent to work easier with my hand position.

AFTER THE HELPER HAS DONE A FEW LIGHT PUMPS ON THE PEDAL...
AND IS HOLDING THAT PRESSURE...
THEN YOU OPEN AND CLOSE THE NIPPLE IN ONE MOVEMENT... YOU DON'T COUNT, LOOK AT THE FLUID... NOTHING EXCEPT OPEN AND CLOSE IT. " squirt " that operation is OVER....
If you have planned ahead and do not want any brake fluid in your face ... have placed a clear plastic tube over the end of the nipple and have it in a clear jar on the ground... then you may have gotten an idea of whether a lot of air is present.. not seeing a single flow of just fluid ....and the color or the inclusion of rust or trash.

You have to take your time. Follow the procedure, be sure your helper is trained also. It does not take a bunch of pressure on the brake pedal to do this...warn the helper of that.....
Letting too much fluid out allows the excess travel which Whunter spoke of... which is very bad and TOTALLY YOUR FAULT if you were the one at the nipples...
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  #50  
Old 10-02-2011, 02:26 PM
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Counterpoint -- If I retract the pistons fully into the calipers, the pedal will hit the floor before I open the bleeder. I have to consciously limit the travel of the pedal until the calipers fill. I put a block under the pedal so it only goes halfway down. This might not happen if bleeding is done after servicing one caliper.

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87 300D
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  #51  
Old 10-02-2011, 03:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wes Bender View Post

I vaguely remember seeing somewhere a brake bleeder that runs a line to one of the tires to obtain air pressure.

Wes
I have an "Easy Bleed" pressure bleeder which gets its pressure from a tire. Works exultant

With any pressure bleeder the two little caps on the b/f reservoir need to be inspected for cracks or you might get a b/f shower
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  #52  
Old 10-02-2011, 04:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stevo View Post
I have an "Easy Bleed" pressure bleeder which gets its pressure from a tire. Works exultant

With any pressure bleeder the two little caps on the b/f reservoir need to be inspected for cracks or you might get a b/f shower
Then you have a low tire afterwards?
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  #53  
Old 10-02-2011, 06:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by funola View Post
Then you have a low tire afterwards?
Maybe it hooks to all four tires so that you just ride a little lower ....but still level...
LOL

VW used to power its windshield washer fluid sprayer by connection to the spare tire I think...
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  #54  
Old 10-02-2011, 06:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by funola View Post
Then you have a low tire afterwards?
Yep, Before your test drive you gota light off the air compressor
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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"
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  #55  
Old 10-02-2011, 08:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stevo View Post
Yep, Before your test drive you gota light off the air compressor
Why not use the air compressor to power the brake bleeder instead? Better yet, use a hand bicycle pump, this way you won't over pressurize the reservoir..
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  #56  
Old 10-03-2011, 01:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by funola View Post
Why not use the air compressor to power the brake bleeder instead? Better yet, use a hand bicycle pump, this way you won't over pressurize the reservoir..
Good Question, the air compressor could probably be used as the unit does have a regulator which takes care of the over pressurizing issue. Its easy to just clip the hose on to the tire, however in the absence of an air compressor a bicycle pump would probably work too. Not sure about "better yet" tho

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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"

Last edited by Stevo; 10-03-2011 at 10:52 AM.
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