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#46
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I just don't worry about the problem. My 603 (Knock on wood) has 239k miles on it and is running better than ever. I added a quart of atf to the fuel at the last fill up and that seems to make it run better. I run it up to 4,500rpm a few times a day and it enjoy's running 1/2 to 1 hour at a time before shut down. My commute to school is 8 miles on the highway and the rest on 40mph roads. On the highway I average 60-75 but go up to 90 once or twice a week. The way I see it as long as my cooling system stays in good shape, and my temp stays at or below 105C my head will be fine. By next summer my cooling system will be all new.
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1999 SL500 1969 280SE 2023 Ram 1500 2007 Tiara 3200 |
#47
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I think we are all on the right track. Number of heat cycles and severity of heat all seem to play a part. MB parts guy I know has indicated longer life for heads if TO was removed early on.
As to the Germans going the extra 3 seconds if needed, sounds like the old "war time emergency" power levels in military planes. What was the deal, you could run it for 30 seconds to get out of trouble, but you needed a new engine if you were lucky enough to land. And as to the over fueling (not to hijack thread), engine will run real rich a lot of times. Mucho black smoke and low power. Then next time will be fine, power come up quickly, little smoke. Fancy electronically controlled IP is new to me. I am used to working on 617 or old VW diesels. Actually wondering if air flow sensor is sticking and fooling computer to think I need way more fuel than actual. Gotta sit down with the engine manual for a day or two of serious reading. And I'm still gonna try to beat y'all to 250K! (or maybe 300K) |
#48
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:p Oh yea, it is not fair if you drive 400 miles a day.
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Alan Hamm '87 300SDL 277K Miles '89 560 SL 68K Miles |
#49
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'86 300SDL 218,xxx. (and original #14 head) Just bought it in MAY to replace '87 560SEL that had an unfortunate meeting with a 16 year old girl who ran a red light. SEL's mileage at demise: 350,499. Current other diesel is an '83 300D with 380k+ miles. Son is driving that while his hot rod ricer is yet again in MY garage bay. (for engine transplant). Oh, and it is 10 miles, one way to work for me. I love 126s and I love diesels. Now if I could just talk daughter into letting me replace her 124 300E with a 124 300D........
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#50
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I accept. Hattterasguy?
My commute is 1.5 miles so I am struggling.
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Alan Hamm '87 300SDL 277K Miles '89 560 SL 68K Miles |
#51
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The IP is NOT electronically controlled. It is fully mechanical, with an electronic idle speed control (to keep idle at a steady 630rpm both in gear and in park/neutral, and with AC compressor on or off). The airflow sensor, and IP rack position sensor, are in place for the engine computer which ONLY controls the emissions junk (EGR and ARV). You should disable both of these systems immediately if not sooner by plugging the vacuum lines. Here's photos of what to look for and remove/disable/plug/whatever on your car: |
#52
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That sounds good Alan, BobK your in! See now Alan you will at least beat someone to 250k. :p
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1999 SL500 1969 280SE 2023 Ram 1500 2007 Tiara 3200 |
#53
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gsxr what does the ARV look like? I don't think my SDL has one of those? If it does tell me how to break it.
Also my idle has been acting up a little lately, sometimes after I come off the throttle my rpm will drop to 500, and sometimes it will sit at 1000 and then slowly come down. If I bump the throttle a little it seems to help. This only happens sometimes so I'm thinking elctrical, maybe the speed control?
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1999 SL500 1969 280SE 2023 Ram 1500 2007 Tiara 3200 |
#54
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The ARV is part of the turbocharger. Find the small vacuum line to the turbo (not the big rubber wastegate hose), disconnect it, and plug it. I think even the 1986 SDL had this (but I'm not positive.)
BTW, about the idle speed thing - every once in a blue moon, my car will also do this - hangs around 1000rpm, but if you tap the throttle, it drops to normal. I gave up trying to fix it. I've heard of others doing this as well. As long as it's not happening all the time, I'd ignore it. I'm failry sure it's an internal mechanical problem, not electrical. The EDS can only raise the idle in the 550-750rpm range, not enough to cause 1000+rpm problems. |
#55
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Thanks, it only happens maybe once a week. If it is mechanical I'll wait for whatever is causing it to break and then fix it. I bet it is something in the IP.
I will go on an ARV hunt, what does the ARV do anyway?
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1999 SL500 1969 280SE 2023 Ram 1500 2007 Tiara 3200 |
#56
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Allright guys. thanks. Sounds like a fun competition. I'll look into the vacumm lines. I thought they were doing soemthing fancy to the IP for emissions. Glad to hear it's just for egr and maybe the other valve., Been wondering if the egr was sticking open anyway. Thought had occured to me that may be the cause. I should have checked by now. I have been replacing the rubber elbows in the vacumm circuits. Trying to kill the leaks. Here's a thought we may not like: if the egr valve reduces the combustion temp and the head problems are made worse by high temps, will we make the cracking head problem worse if "something" should make the egr no longer work?
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#57
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#58
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http://engine.articles.mbz.org/diesel/hoses/ A sticking EGR could be related to the power loss & smoking, one more reason to disable it, or better yet physically block it off. I'm not worried about the EGR affecting cracks though, since the Euro engines don't have EGR and they have no problems... |
#59
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Ahh, my SDL is a little dogish until the turbo gets moving, maybe blocking that valve will help. I will do it tomarrow and report back.
EGR's are not needed on these engines, as gsxr said the euro's didn't have them. Pull off you intake manifold and take a look at the poor crap covered intake valve's. I would recomend blocking the egr asap.
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1999 SL500 1969 280SE 2023 Ram 1500 2007 Tiara 3200 |
#60
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