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#16
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Copper or aluminum washers make wonderful seals in such locations.
You probably only need to loosen the bolt and re-tighten it to cure the leak. I've had this happen a time or two over the years. Peter
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1972 220D ?? miles 1988 300E 200,012 1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles 1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000 1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs! |
#17
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"As for RTV, I've never seen it help with drain plugs."
I am sure you don't use RTV on drain plugs.... so you would not see it help.... or you are not following my instructions to let it make a gasket by setting up overnight before installing..... |
#18
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Update
The plug has been tightened 'some more' as of last night, and overnight, my greasy metal friend didn't even mark his spot. Not a drop! So, looks like I was just being oversqueamish with the tightening
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#19
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Quote:
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#20
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Quote:
Now you know exactly how much effort you need to seal a copper washer. It is not easy to strip out a sump plug with manual dexterity unless some leverage is applied (or extreme brute force ). I use a controlled effort to tighten most bolts/nuts. Combined with the fact that smaller diameter bolts have smaller heads and the spanners are shorter, (tends to reduce the effort applied too) this generally limits the torque applied to the torque which can be tolerated, or less. With MEATY bolts and nuts, I apply "maximum effort". This combined with the longer spanners for the large sizes, allows just the right amount of torque to be applied. For critical applications, I break out the torque wrench.
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Tony from West Oz. Fatmobile 3 84 300D 295kkm Silver grey/Blue int. 2 tank WVO - Recipient of TurboDesel engine. Josephine '82 300D 390kkm White/Palamino int. Elizabeth '81 280E, sporting a '79 300D engine. Lucille '87 W124 300D non-turbo 6 cylinder OM603, Pearl Grey with light grey interior Various parts cars including 280E, 230C & 300D in various states of disassembly. |
#21
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Quote:
Leathermang, I've seen it used on several cars I've serviced, and a simple change to a new cooper washer stopped the leak after cleaning all the RTV off and making sure the surfaces were true. The problem with RTV, even if you let it set up, is that as you are tightening the drain bolt, it gets scrapped off or bunches up under one part of the plug. I have seen people slow a already present leak by smearing RTV around the leaking drain plug, but I don't recommend this either. |
#22
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You guys ought to go to work for DoD. You over analyzed this minor problem ad-nauseum. The answer was always: Re-tighten the dadburn plug!!! LOL.
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N. Hodges 1994 S350 1987 300 SDL (for sale) |
#23
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nhodges, if you read the thread she referenced in the first post ....
"The conclusion seems obvious: I've singlehandedly managed to strip the threads on the drain plug, rendering my new Mercedes undrivable the first time I tried to do any maintenance on it." You can see why we were looking at other answers.... this ' girly-girl' has arms the size of Hulk Hogan... |
#24
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Have I mentioned that I'm also green and have a terrible temper?
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#25
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Ah Ha, we may be getting closer to the answer... rule 82 is " never mechanic in anger".....
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#26
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Speak of the devil !
I did an oil interchange (inbetween changes) on my 300D and later the oil was dripping from the oil pan plug. Yeah, I reused the old copper crush washer knowing all too well that it may be a problem. (I had consciuosly reflected on the judicious advice gleaned way back on this forum but took a risk.) So I just bought a new 'screw plug' part no. 002-997-34-30 from the local dealer and a new seal ring (washer). I swapped the screw plugs and should be fine. I decided on a new screw plug just for safety since the old one has many decades on it. Funny, my W126's crush washer is a bit thicker than the one for the W123 and I reused it successfully after an in between oil change. But then again, the screw plug for that car is alot longer.
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1979 300D 220 K miles 1995 C280 109 K miles 1992 Cadillac Eldorado Touring Coupe 57K miles SOLD ******************** 1979 240D 140Kmiles (bought for parents) *SOLD. SAN FRANCISCO/(*San Diego) 1989 300SE 148 K miles *SOLD |
#27
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My 2 cents worth. I don't use a torque wrench but I limit the force by where I place my hand on the rachet handle. If my hand is touching the socket, I can not over tighten.
Also, the filters I buy come with a new o-ring and two copper washers. One is the wrong size. One is right - I think it's a little thicker and a little smaller diameter.
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Charles 1983 300D, bought new, 215k+ miles, donated to Purple Hearts veterans charity but I have parts for sale: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedes-benz-cars-sale/296386-fs-1-owner-83-mb-300d-turbo-rebuild-parts.html |
#28
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For example Mercedes lug wrenches are short because they allow just the right torque at that handle length.
The two finger torque rule on a 4-5 inch handle for small stuff is good ! I don't torque the oil plugs either.
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1979 300D 220 K miles 1995 C280 109 K miles 1992 Cadillac Eldorado Touring Coupe 57K miles SOLD ******************** 1979 240D 140Kmiles (bought for parents) *SOLD. SAN FRANCISCO/(*San Diego) 1989 300SE 148 K miles *SOLD |
#29
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Quote:
That happened to me several years ago with a Dodge van. I happened to see the guage pressure suddenly drop, turned off the engine, and coasted into a service station. Talk about luck!! New drain plug and all was well. Note: I paid a local indy to do the oil change as I was pressed for time. When I related the story, he fired the mechanic.
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Charles 1983 300D, bought new, 215k+ miles, donated to Purple Hearts veterans charity but I have parts for sale: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=296386 |
#30
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Guys 'Notice this thread is 5 Years Old ?
AND an Easy, simple to remember rule(Very Important for YT in his Aged-ness)
If it has a "Torque to" Measurement (Nm, Inch Pounds,Ft Lbs) It Needs a Torque Wrench. AND so far Every damn bolt and nut on the W124 has such a measurement ! Except the 6 bolts that hold the Vacuum Pump onto the Timing Cover !
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'84 300SD sold 124.128 |
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