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  #31  
Old 02-19-2005, 01:51 AM
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Flushed mine tonight. Actually bought four rotors, front and rear pads, front and rear brake hoses. Front brakes were in excellent shape (and the warpped rotor pulse was coming from the rears), so I just changed the hoses on the fronts, the everything on the rears. Flushed the system and have excellent and smooth brakes. Also changed the tank screen (another thread ) and did some other work.
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  #32  
Old 02-19-2005, 07:38 AM
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Had mine flushed on my recent fluids change........didn't really think it was necessary but not expensive si went ahead and did it......now I'm glad I did after reading this.........
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  #33  
Old 02-19-2005, 12:44 PM
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Flushed my system and rebuilt the front calipers in December 04.
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  #34  
Old 02-19-2005, 03:28 PM
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I'll do mine every April when I change the air and fuel filters.
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  #35  
Old 09-09-2005, 07:47 PM
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Would't the interval on brake flush be correlated to the relative humidity where you live? Desert dwellers would need it less than swamp dwellers.
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  #36  
Old 09-09-2005, 08:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kerry edwards
Would't the interval on brake flush be correlated to the relative humidity where you live? Desert dwellers would need it less than swamp dwellers.
I'd certainly agree. The two year fixed "standard" interval surely doesn't take relative humidity into account during the interval.
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  #37  
Old 09-09-2005, 08:54 PM
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Replacement fluid.

I changed my fluid out about 200 miles ago when I redid my brakes (4 new rotors, pads all around, replaced left rear caliper, and rebuilt the other 3.)

I used the Official ATE fluid from Rusty.

My brake pedal still feels a little soft, maybe I'll have my dad help me bleed some more.
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  #38  
Old 09-10-2005, 09:44 AM
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I have used DOT 4 from ATE for years. I use the Typ 200 which is supposed to absorb much less water than DOT 3 . I would never use DOT 3 even if I changed it every 6 months !
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  #39  
Old 09-10-2005, 11:41 PM
Brandon314159
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Don't forget to check your flex brake lines while you are under there.

They get old and cracked and can fail/swell resulting in weak brakes.

Also give your brakes a good SOLID press with both feet while the engine is running and the car is parked. It will help weed out weak brake lines by making them swell more and/or fail.

Inspect carefully

I have all 4 awaiting replacement. Just waiting for the rain to let up
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  #40  
Old 09-10-2005, 11:49 PM
Craig
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brandon314159
Don't forget to check your flex brake lines while you are under there.

They get old and cracked and can fail/swell resulting in weak brakes.
I had my left rear flex line fail on my 300D during a hard stop in traffic (on I-70). Fortunately, I didn't hit anything. I noticed that the failed line runs only a few inches from the exhaust pipe. I suspect the heat from the exhaust shortens the life of that line. It appeared to be significantly more dried/cracked than the line on the other side.
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  #41  
Old 09-10-2005, 11:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Craig
I had my left rear flex line fail on my 300D during a hard stop in traffic (on I-70). Fortunately, I didn't hit anything. I noticed that the failed line runs only a few inches from the exhaust pipe. I suspect the heat from the exhaust shortens the life of that line. It appeared to be significantly more dried/cracked than the line on the other side.
Exactly.

You believe that a good strong pump while parked would have weeded out the bad line before the drive? I know it sure dusted the one on my friends VW. Too bad I was kneeling right next to it bleeding the caliper. I dislike brake fluid.
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  #42  
Old 09-11-2005, 12:11 AM
Craig
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brandon314159
Exactly.

You believe that a good strong pump while parked would have weeded out the bad line before the drive? I know it sure dusted the one on my friends VW. Too bad I was kneeling right next to it bleeding the caliper. I dislike brake fluid.
I'm sure it would have failed if I had put the same pressure on it while standing still. I jabbed the brakes pretty hard when it failed. I probably hadn't put that much pressure on the system in months. Your periodic "test" sounds like a good idea.
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  #43  
Old 09-11-2005, 11:21 PM
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Arrow Silicone

There is something that seems to be left out about the silicone controversy. It seems that earlier on in this thread, in someones ever-so helpfull links, I saw somewhere that silicone is not recomended for HIGH VIBRATION APPLICATIONS. As we all know this is the case with diesels. Just adding my piece
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  #44  
Old 09-12-2005, 02:18 AM
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C-clamp method for easy bleeding

This is from the Suburban forum I belong to, from another very knowledgeable guy there. It's how I did my Suburban a few weeks ago, and how I plan on doing the SD this winter.

C-clamp method for bleeding brakes...
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  #45  
Old 09-12-2005, 04:50 AM
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One thing to point out is to NEVER compress the calipers on ABS vehicles without the bleeder valve on the caliper open. I have seen ABS valves/controllers damaged from forcing so much fluid back through them.
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