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#1
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Sorry to revive this old thread. I had an awful week full of root canals, offers and counteroffers on houses, and other things.
Anyway, I am going to replace the hand pump as it leaks. Then I should be able to pump some fuel to ensure that it gets in the chamber. If nothing happens tonight, I will be hiring a tow truck to take it to a respectable shop in Lansing. I am frustrated and defeated by this car. I still wnat to buy another one in better shape, so I haven't given up on Mercedes, just rather frustrated with this one. My thanks goes out to all those who helped me with advice and suggestions. I have learned a lot that I will apply to my next 123 series Mercedes. Josh P.S. I will post the final solution in a new thread when I know something.
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81 300D 250K (sold) 79 240D 200k 83 Volvo Station Wagon (282k) |
#2
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Josh, here's an idea to see if your engine is getting fuel. Remove one of the glowplugs and crank the engine. I'm sure you will be able to tell if any fuel is being delivered.
Gary |
#3
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Easier than pulling a glow plug, would be to crack the number one line loose at the number one injector and turn it over while pressing the throttle. Where safety glasses for this.
You check the compression through the injector hole, and you need a guage that will read over 300PSI. Remove all injectors, check compression and write down numbers. I experienced the same problem with my daughters car. It was starting and running great then bang, nothing. I did the cylinder head and checked everything I could, and it had possibly jumped time. Forget jumping time, this would be so rare it's almost not worth checking, but if you take the valve cover off, turn the engine by hand until the camshaft mark lines up with same on number one camshaft stand, then see if the TDC lines up on the balancer. After all I went through on my daughter's car with the mystery we discussed about start one day, no start the next, I worry that the gremlin will return. Keep checking things, the odds are not very good that you will have to dismantle the engine like I did. Good luck, and let us know as you go along what's up, maybe we can answer one question at a time. |
#4
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Larry, You get a gold star for recommending the safety glasses when cracking the high pressure fule line....Go to the head of the class!
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#5
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Deezel,
You're surprised? Thanks to your tutelage, I'm now the alternate Safety Officer. Have a great day, |
#6
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This one is specifically for LarryBible.
I read your post on bad diesel fuel from November. Like your daughter, I could almost swear that I filled it only with Diesel, but like your fuel, it is a yellowish - almost clear - color. I had always before thought that diesel was red. I tried to light the fuel from the filter and it didn't so, based on that, I assumed it was diesel. Did you ever figure out if it was actually diesel? This happened to me within 20 miles of a fill-up. Maybe fuel is the key. If there was water in the fuel, is it possible that there is an ice block in the lines somewhere? How do I go about draining the fuel tank? I know that there is new fuel in the filter. Last night I unscrewed it and pumped fuel. It came out of the place where the fuel pump was. So it works although it leaks. (I have the new pump, but not a 24mm wrench) Thanks for all your help. I should know something by this weekend. Josh
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81 300D 250K (sold) 79 240D 200k 83 Volvo Station Wagon (282k) |
#7
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Josh,
In our case it was good fuel, the problem turned out to be compression related. I have; done complete valve job on head, retimed cam and checked injection pump timing. I was doubtful and afraid that I was wasting money and time, but it all came out okay. It was very strange that it happened all of a sudden, and it could be that the gremlin will return. I believe that if the fuel looks good and the filters aren't plugged, you don't have a fuel problem. Have you checked the compression yet just to be sure? Good luck, and keep the questions coming, we will help you somehow, |
#8
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Josh, is your new hand pump 17 mm? If so, and you don't care about damaging your old pump then you can probably get it off with channel locks. The new one with 17 mm base will go on much easier than the old 24mm hand pump. Be sure to bleed the fuel system properly after.
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#9
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Is Wm. Lewallen an active member? He was a guest in his post. Its a 10 year old thread !! There are plenty of more recent threads about such repairs.
X2 on the need to put your car details in your sig !!
__________________
Grumpy Old Diesel Owners Club group I no longer question authority, I annoy authority. More effect, less effort.... ![]() 1967 230-6 auto parts car. rust bucket. 1980 300D now parts car 800k miles 1984 300D 500k miles ![]() 1987 250td 160k miles English import ![]() 2001 jeep turbo diesel 130k miles ![]() 1998 jeep tdi ~ followed me home. Needs a turbo. 1968 Ford F750 truck. 6-354 diesel conversion. Other toys ~J.D.,Cat & GM ~ mainly earth moving |
#10
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Quote:
so put the problem car in the question like the OP of this thread did!
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread "as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do! My drivers: 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 560SL convertible 1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!! ![]() 1987 300TD 2005 Dodge Sprinter 2500 158"WB 1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere! |
#11
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Hey John,
You are on the ball there!!! I had my names mixed up & had to edit it !! You saw it & quoted it before I had a chance to correct it !! 50cool50 , Welcome, I see its only your second post!! When you get a chance it would help us all if you could include a few details about the car in question. I doubt if you will get a reply to your request. The info you need should be in other threads.
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Grumpy Old Diesel Owners Club group I no longer question authority, I annoy authority. More effect, less effort.... ![]() 1967 230-6 auto parts car. rust bucket. 1980 300D now parts car 800k miles 1984 300D 500k miles ![]() 1987 250td 160k miles English import ![]() 2001 jeep turbo diesel 130k miles ![]() 1998 jeep tdi ~ followed me home. Needs a turbo. 1968 Ford F750 truck. 6-354 diesel conversion. Other toys ~J.D.,Cat & GM ~ mainly earth moving |
#12
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300D Won't start
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What was the outcome? Sorry, I know thread is old but I'm having similar issues. Thanks, Rob |
#13
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Quote:
so he probably will not see your question.. better to start a new thread and tell about your car and ask what questions you have...less reading for people trying to help you also...
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1980 240d , chain elongation, cam marks reference: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/10414-help-i-need-check-stretch.html http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html evap fin cleaning: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator A/C thread http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html |
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