Neil, did you get the 2.5 listed in the cars forum?

Sixto
87 300D

1987 300TD contingent on passing a PPI

:-) neil

I must be lucky, bad lucky. I checked all 3 of my 603 ( '86 or '87 300SDL) engines and all 3 had the old style (smooth end) vacuum pump.

What are the chances of that happening?

P E H

Probably same type of initial owner that didn't take care of them new. Now we have the liberty to go back and fix those issues.

If you ask around, I bet someone would cut you a good deal on three...

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I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look.

'85 300SD 245k
'87 300SDL 251k
'90 300SEL 326k

Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford.

Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.[/IMG]

I'd start looking for a good deal on three! They pop up on ebay now and than for under $100, can't beat that!

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2016 Corvette Stingray 2LT
1969 280SE
2023 Ram 1500
2007 Tiara 3200

I am in the process of resealing my ip. i have gotten as far as removing the 6 VacPump bolts but i cant wiggle the pump off, it seems like the belt tensioner is not letting it come out. i loosened the shock n spring but my VP is still hanging up somewhere. no where in any of the threads did it say to remove the vp, you need to remove the tensioner completely.... am i missing something here?

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1987 300SDL "Rudolf" 239k 8/10


Gone but not forgotten
-1980 F250 4X4 351C Snowplow "The Beast"
-1976 Caddy Eldo Convertible, in triple red. "Red headed Slut"
-2002 Honda Accord EX-V6 loaded 107k, My first brand new car!


*IM A HORRIBLE SPELLER*

I'm not sure what is hanging it up, but the belt tensioner does not have to be removed to get the vac pump off. You may need to push the tensioner all the way up or down (forget which), and/or rotate the engine slightly so the vac pump is not under tension from the timing device cam. I just did this job last week and the tensioner remained in place (including the shock).

Just remember to set the engine at ~14° ATDC, and insert the IP lock tool (making sure it's connected to the tang), before removing the pump. In addition to the side, bottom, & rear covers, ELR and vac shutoff... don't forget to also replace the stop lever shaft O-ring. This is often forgotten and often leaks!

thanks for thereply.

i DID rotate engine last night, jacked the tensioner every which way and the pump is still hanging up somewhere. maybe now after a good nights sleep i will go out n try again

where is the timing marker? i looked n looked n cant find... maybe its just covered in grease n grime

im on my way to the stealership to pick up my seals n lock tool (yes i ordered ahead) i think i ordered ALMOST all the seals listed in gsxrs posts on the ip and the wiki DIY article... the only visible leak i have is the oring where the ip bolts to block... started leaking like a mofo recently

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1987 300SDL "Rudolf" 239k 8/10


Gone but not forgotten
-1980 F250 4X4 351C Snowplow "The Beast"
-1976 Caddy Eldo Convertible, in triple red. "Red headed Slut"
-2002 Honda Accord EX-V6 loaded 107k, My first brand new car!


*IM A HORRIBLE SPELLER*

oh whats the ELR? i think thats the one i didnt order

__________________
1987 300SDL "Rudolf" 239k 8/10


Gone but not forgotten
-1980 F250 4X4 351C Snowplow "The Beast"
-1976 Caddy Eldo Convertible, in triple red. "Red headed Slut"
-2002 Honda Accord EX-V6 loaded 107k, My first brand new car!


*IM A HORRIBLE SPELLER*

The timing indicator is the triangle-shaped thingy which is pretty much right below the water pump, almost directly in the centerline of the w/p shaft.

ELR is the big round red thingy at the rear of the pump. I have found that the ELR itself starts leaking oil between the red plastic and the metal body, so I've been applying clear RTV silicone around the edge to try and seal it. I put it face down on the workbench, apply a thin bead of RTV in the little crevice, and let it sit overnight to dry before installing it back in the pump. I need to take a photo of the result, since it's a little hard to explain.

Going back to the original process post, I did not note a mention of this "IP" lock tool when R&R'ing the Vacuum Pump. Can you elaborate?

TIA!

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"Opportunity is missed by most people because it is dressed in overalls and looks like work" - Thomas Edison-
1979 300SD
1975 450SL
2014 Ram Cummins Megacab (tow rig)

The injection pump (IP) lock tool is needed when removing & installing the injection pump, but is NOT needed only for replacing the vacuum pump. The vac pump is much easier to R&R.

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Check out my website photos, documents, and movies!

Thanks to the information in this thread, i changed the vacuum pump this evening.
I thought i would give some feedback...

The old one looks perfectly ok and it has two ball bearings, the new one only has one ball bearing...
The old one was fitted with a paper gasket, the new one came with the metal gasket without the dam.

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The car is a 1987 300TD, OM603 engine non turbo. Mileage unknown, propably well over 300 000kms...

I decided to change the VP and the belt tensioner assembly because of a persisting TICTICTIC from the engine...

My new VP is a Pierburg, it costed 161 euros.

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Hi guys,

Sorry for digging up an ancient thread but I'm now in a situation where I guess many of us have been also.

My 1987 300D Turbo started making a "squeaking" noise this past saturday 01/10/2022, which made think it was something related to the belt.

Upon checking it happened to be the Fan Clutch making the noise. And it also makes a noise upon turning off the engine, like a harsh rotation stop, like it is scrubbing on something before stopping.

I'll order a new Fan Clutch today...

Upon reading some stuff on forum I saw the recommendation to also check the Vacuum Pump, just in case, to see if there is still an old, DANGEROUS one present... the infamous one that has no visible "screws" on it's surface...

As it happens, the car, which has 445.000km, does still have that INFAMOUS OLD Vaccum Pump hanging in there :O

I have an OM603.97X from a 1994 W140 S350 Turbodiesel which had around 230k kms and had no vacuum issues...

The pump has the reference 000 230 30 65 on it...

It does have the visible 4 "screws" BUT is it a safe one? Or do I need to disassemble it from the engine to confirm? I know only having those screws visible are no guarantee of it being a safe one from what I've read...

I'm just not able to disassemble the W140 one as I'm not close to it right now, and would like to know if it was possible to confirm the "safeness" of it without disassembly.

Thanks in advance.