.

I though I read on the Forum that that parts from the Mercedes Dealer are warranted for one Year. So if someone buys a Mortor Mount from the Dealer and can prove it take it back and get another free mount.

It is possible for even the best quality parts to have a defect. Nothing manufactured is perfect.

besides Oil or Fuel Soaked Mounts other issues like were all 2 of the Mounts changed and the Transmission Mount at the same time; they work as a team.

Then the Mounts were made do dampen the effects of an Engine that is within specs.

If you Engine is shaking for other reasons like the Injectors need rebuilding, uneven compression, Air Leaks, Valve and Fuel Injection pump timing issues along with Valve adjustment issues more stress is being put on the Mounts and they are not going to last as long.

I had to fix all of the above stuff to cure my Hot Engine Shakes in the first Year after I bought my 84 300D.
I also replaced the Motor Mounts and Transmission Mounts with a cheap set (this was before I knew what was good quality or not); I still have the paper work and was surprised to find I installed URO Motor Mounts (I though I had bought Anchor Motor Mounts).

So since some time in 2007 I have had URO Motor Mounts with no issues so far (I have bought a set of Lemfoerders to replace them when the time comes).

Either the stuff I fixed helped preserve my cheapie Motor Mounts or I was just very lucky to get a tough set of cheap Mounts.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

stay away from FEQ mounts. complete 100% Garbage.
used them in my 190E 2.3 and my 87 300D and had to replace both with in a year. Switched to Lemfoerder mounts and never looked back.

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07 E350 sport Wife's Daily
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87 300D Turbo my Daily for 8 yrs. Selling to neighbor

82 GMC Jimmy (K5) 6.2 Diesel (my Wheeler)
73 Roadrunner 340ci My very first car, still own it

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1985 300SD
1983 300D
2003 Volvo V70

https://www.boldegoist.com/

Realize this is an old thread, but at least I've been searching!

I'm in dire need of new engine mounts in my 85 300D. Looking to do this job next week but need to order the goods now. Can anyone confirm if the heat shield needs to be replaced? Mine look like the mounts have failed so badly that the shields are all bent up.

I also noticed a T bar mount in the catalog, but didn't notice it in any of the write ups. Is this a wear/fail item as well? Lastly, the engine shock. Is it possible (or worthwhile) to replace the bushings and leave the existing shocks, or should I go ahead and just do all of it at once?

I'd been chasing down a shaky idle this morning, playing with linkages and the idle adjustment bolt when I noticed that holy crap, that's not what engine mounts are supposed to look like!

Heat shield can be hammered flat and reused.

T-bar (123-240-03-650) is used on the 240D, not needed for your car.

IMHO engine shocks are not needed (except for concours), they only help to reduce shaking of the engine on shutdown.
Usually it's the rubber in the engine shock mount that fails...and those are costly.

Do consider replacing the transmission mount at the same time if its condition is poor.

Make sure you have stopped any oil or fuel leaks that drip on your motor mounts, or you will be relacing them again in short order.
For best value, I'd spring for the Lemforder mounts.

FSM job 07-100 link for idle adjustment

FSM job 30-300 link for throttle control adjustment

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78 W116 300SD 'Desert Rose' new as of 01/26/2014
79 W116 300SD 'Stormcloud' RIP 04/11/2022

Just the info I needed, thank you!

Lemforder was the brand I put in my pelican cart. They have a shock bushing mount kit for $20 as well, recommended?

I think the only oil leak left (that I can see) is the OFH, which I intend to get done in the next few weeks as well. I just had it down for a week for a bunch of little maintenance, will do again next week.

I believe you have the newer engine shock mount method shown as on the right of the drawing in the link and the enlarged diagram below.
Check to see if that is what is in place, before you decide to order any of the engine shock system parts.



Item 29 is the rubber fused to metal shock mount that tends to fail (123-241-48-13), and that's the costly one.
Item 65 is the repair kit (123-586-06-24) which is reasonable in cost.
The kit may have changed as the diagram seems to have some additional components that are not in the PP kit, and there is no bolt in the diagram either.

If the rubber/metal engine shock mount is shot, I wouldn't get the repair kit nor the rubber/metal shock mount.
Removing, replacing or keeping worn engine shocks and mounts in their current location won't affect the idle smoothness.
Again, IMHO not an essential system, I naively replaced them on my first MB (an 83 W123 300D), and it made no difference except for emptying my wallet.

For the OFH (Oil Filter Housing) to engine block gasket, only get the original MB waffle weave gasket (616-184-07-80)...accept no substitutes.

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78 W116 300SD 'Desert Rose' new as of 01/26/2014
79 W116 300SD 'Stormcloud' RIP 04/11/2022

Your 85 300D only has the 2 Motor Mounts and The Engine Shocks. There is no other Motor Mounts.
I am not sure what you mean by a T Bar.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

The motor mounts make a big difference in the vibrations. To get more life out of cheaper India mounts (DEA, Anchor, forget), I filled them w/ polyurethane, plus a backer plate beneath to support the poly. This gave increased cabin buzzes noticeably (cig lighter door, vents, etc) and even worse gave a low-frequency vibration coming off idle (~1200 rpm) which was especially bothersome driving around parking lots. It felt like an old carbureted gas engine that would stumble off idle, ready to die.

In my 1985 300D, I recently went back to unfilled mounts, using one I had marked "Made in Germany" (couldn't make out stamp) and bought another for ~$40 shown in the photo. I recall a past post which said these were from the same stock as $100 ones and they had to grind off a brand mark to sell them (see photo). Normally beyond my cheap-bastard price range, but turned out they were worth it. Now it is like driving a different car it is so much smoother. I still get a slight shaking around 2000 rpm, but that isn't a region I spend much time at under throttle. The final story will be if both mounts last for 10 yrs.

Other info - the poly fill was still soft and could be pushed in 1/2" by thumb so kind of amazing it made so much difference. The poly was pushing on the backer plate because some extruded thru some holes. The engine is quiet idling, almost so you can barely tell it is a diesel from 10 ft away. With all mounts, I didn't notice the engine moving hardly at all relative to the body, but you can feel the vibrations in the cabin.

Attached Thumbnails

 

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1984 & 1985 CA 300D's
1964 & 65 Mopar's - Valiant, Dart, Newport
1996 & 2002 Chrysler minivans

Item 89 in the image on the right, above. I noticed it in the parts list for engine mount hardware in the PP catalog and wasn't sure if it was needed, or applicable.

FWIW, I believe the shock mount in my car does match the image on the right. I'll look again, but I studied it from above earlier today.

Sounds like I'll just be needing to order the 2 engine mounts. I have selected Lemforder, should be great. I'm actually excited to do this job.

Question- would the OFH gasket job (I have the MB waffle) be any easier with the engine rocked back while doing the engine mounts?

FSM job 18-110 removal and installation of oil filter

Yes, raising the engine can help to gain better access to some of the hex head bolts mounting the housing to the block.
Some have dropped the steering box instead of raising the engine.
First, clean the hex heads thoroughly with brake cleaner and cotton swabs.
The allen socket or allen wrench needs to be all the way in the hex head to remove the bolt.
Otherwise you'll have the tool slip and damage the bolt.

Hint:

To remove the oil cooler lines from the filter housing spray the fittings with penetrant first.
Then use a thin 24 mm open end wrench (Park brand bicycle cone wrench or equivalent) as a counterhold on the oil filter line nipple and a 27 mm open end wrench (or flare wrench if you have one that size) on the oil line fitting.

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78 W116 300SD 'Desert Rose' new as of 01/26/2014
79 W116 300SD 'Stormcloud' RIP 04/11/2022