|
|
|
|
|
LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#1
|
|||
|
|||
Replaced engine mounts & shocks but engine vibrates louder. What cause(s)?
I recently replaced my two engine mounts and two engine shocks on my 1984 300TD. After I replaced them, I expected less noise and vibration but what I got was a slightly loud noise like metal vibration coming from the engine well somewhere. I'm suspecting that I also need to change the transmission mount, but after a visual inspection it looks fine and I have decided not to change it.
Does anyone have any ideas why I would get a slightly louder vibration sound coming from the engine well after I changed my engine mounts and engine shocks? Thanks. |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
When was the last time the valves were adjusted and timing chain checked/replaced?
__________________
1996 (W210) E300D 86K - Traded in for a Lexus 1992 (W124) 300D 2.5 Turbo 202K - Sold 1983 (W123) 300D, 146K - Sold 1970 280S, 263K - Sold - Beginning of addiction |
#3
|
||||
|
||||
You might also check the position of the rack dampener bolt and if there are any threads left, try turning it in a slight bit to see if the shake goes away.
__________________
Regards, Aaron |
#4
|
|||
|
|||
Grab the air cleaner housing and shake it around. If this duplicates the sound, you might need a new support bracket and rubber support bushings.
Also, my opinion is that you should always replace "wear" components in a complete set. As in, pads for both front brakes at one time, ball joints upper and lower on both sides at one time, etc. What I am saying is that you should go ahead and replace the rubber mount block at the back of the transmission. This is generally considered part of the "engine mount" system. Ken300D |
#5
|
|||
|
|||
The air filter housing can make a helluva racket. The AFH stands so close to the throttle linkage and cam cover that one loose or damaged AFH mount can produce a serious percussion section. Now that the shocks and mounts are replaced, vibrations are going to travel through the engine and bay in different fashion than before.
|
#6
|
|||
|
|||
Thanks for all your suggestions.
Slowmoe, the valves were last adjusted 3 months ago and at that same time, the timing chain was checked and my mechanic said that there's no stretch. Also, my air filter housing mount is fine. I check this often as I know from comments here that a broken air filter mount is often the source of vibrations and noise. On a side note, if any of you guys purchased yours from a MBZ independent shop, and it broke on you, don't go out and buy a new one; they should replace a new air filter mount for free as it will be under warranty. Not sure how long it's good for, but mine broke 9 months after I purchased it and my mechanic gave me a new one. Back to the new noise problem. The new noise was not there prior to changing the engine mounts and engine shocks but is there now. So, I kinda agree with Ken's advice to go ahead and change the transmission mount as I believe that the engine is raised slightly higher now because of putting in the engine mounts and the transmission is a bit lower. I think the engine & transmission is out of alignment and that is creating the new noise I am hearing. This is just my thoughts, I could be wrong. Aaron, I'll also replace the rack dampener bolt, a good idea, since the last time I replace it was about 1.5 years ago. Regards, |
Bookmarks |
|
|