So it will be a caravan from Frederick?

Cheers,
Bill

Yes I am heading to meet him first and at the very least the two of us will be driving up...but I think there is more of us than that...

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Proud owner of ....
1971 280SE W108
1979 300SD W116
1983 300D W123
1975 Ironhead Sportster chopper
1987 GMC 3/4 ton 4X4 Diesel
1989 Honda Civic (Heavily modified)
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Section 609 MVAC Certified
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"He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you." - Friedrich Nietzsche

As long as there is a form to build on, new wood panels can be done.

You can have any exotic wood applied to the form. Six to ten coats of finish material, be it urethane, or a variety of synthetic coatings, will reviel the compareable finish originally supplied. It will likely appeal more to you!

The more the merrier...unless you're talking bills!

Cheers,
Bill

I wouldn't use anything but catalyzied lacquer. That will be the only thing that'll hold up to the sun. Urethane will no way last. It will crack and then peel or flake off. I'm quite certain catalyized lacquer is what the factory used. They only used the best and that is still the best.

Cheers,
Bill

On a previous thread on this subject, I posted about a process I observed at last October's AACA hershey meet. A vendor was demonstrating his wood-graining process. Many pre WW2 cars used a painted woodgrain finish on metal trim. This fellow has developed a small-scale version of the factory process. A base color is applied and allowed to dry, then the grain is applied over the base. This is the neat part--There are dozens of grain patterns available--all on cast aluminum plates. The grain color is squeeged onto the aluminum plate and then a VERY soft gum rubber roller is rolled over it. the roller picks up the grain pattern. The roller is then then rolled over the trim piece and the grain transfers to it. The results were fantastic. I watched as he woodgrained any number of items. The roller is so soft that it conforms to surface curves. He did some light switch covers--like for a house, and the curved edges were perfect. If the length of the piece exceeds the roller circumference or the length of the graining plate, he used a piece of cardstock to roll on at the end of the stroke, leaving a clean edge. After allowing it to dry, and reapplying the grain to the roller, he moved the cardstock to cove the completed area and rolled from that edge to the end. The result looked just like the way veneer is pieced together.
The kit isn't cheap, but it wasn't too expensive either, especially if you are planning to do more than one car. I don't have his name handy, but I bet a google search would turn it up quickly.