OK, in the never ending quest to find smoking cause, I was loosening injector lines while car was idling to see if it made a difference. Well, when #5 broke loose, my hand smashed into the vac line, snapping off the brake booster check valve nipple. Any wonder I hate this wagon?
Anyway, I had a spare from a '79 wagon (thank you Leathermang)
Man, the vacuum situation has me totally stumped. And it seems so simple, but it ain't working. He is the cliff notes version:
Pump at one end, brake booster at the other. Prior to brake booster is check valve. It is working. Old vac line had 2 nipples ('T's) in between pump and check valve. First 'T' went to tranny 3/2 valve on valve cover. Second 'T' (closest to check valve) went to several 'Y's, including line to door locks, line to ignition, and a couple other black lines that I'm not sure of at the moment. Here is the deal. My new vac line only has 1 'T' coming off of it. So I 'T'd off of that, with one going to stuff from nipple 1 (3/2 valve), and another going to stuff from 2nd 'T'. In effect, it is plumbed alittle different, but should net out the same.
I have 22.5 psi of vac (psi is probably not correct, but you get the idea) which is what I should have. If I run the 'T' straight to the line to the ignition, the car shuts off with the key, and the brakes work fine. When I 'T' if off to everything else, it doesn't shut off. It only sends about 2 psi to the IP shutoff, which obviously isn't enough. The ignition sw itself holds vacuum, the door locks hold vacuum(even though they have never worked). And most importantly, NOTHING has changed except for the plumbing differences from the main vac line. What difference is two 'T's compared to one 'T' with 2 branches from it?

__________________
Jimmy L.
'05 Acura TL 6MT
2001 ML430 My Spare

Gone:
'95 E300 188K "Batmobile" Texas Unfriendly Black
'85 300TD 235K "The Wagon" Texas Friendly White
'80 240D 154K "China" Scar engine installed
'81 300TD 240K "Smash"
'80 240D 230K "The Squash"
'81 240D 293K"Scar" Rear ended harder than Elton John

My guess is you have a big leak in the line going to the 3/2 valve, which is robbing you of vacuum in the line going to the ignition switch. You might try plugging that line and see if it shuts off with it plugged.

I guess you were in the process of cracking each line to the injectors to see if the smoke stopped when any of the cylinders were starved for fuel? Did you find a faulty cylinder, or did it smoke on throughout the process?

Good luck!

__________________
1976 240D
1987 560SL
2007 E320 Bluetec
1998 C280 (now son’s car)
1982 240D Manual - Sold

I was so disgusted that I quit. I started with #5, I ended with #5.
I will check the line to the 3/2 valve, I am just thrown off by the fact that nothing changed except the main vac line from pump to brake booster.

**edit**
While typing this message the first time, my laptop battery melted. This car takes everything within it's wake and turns it to crapola.... Melted the battery plastic. At least I can trouble shoot that!

__________________
Jimmy L.
'05 Acura TL 6MT
2001 ML430 My Spare

Gone:
'95 E300 188K "Batmobile" Texas Unfriendly Black
'85 300TD 235K "The Wagon" Texas Friendly White
'80 240D 154K "China" Scar engine installed
'81 300TD 240K "Smash"
'80 240D 230K "The Squash"
'81 240D 293K"Scar" Rear ended harder than Elton John

"I was so disgusted that I quit." --JimmyL

You can't do that ! You don't have time to quit and recover each time something bad happens..... otherwise progress will just get slower and slower... and already you have burned up a laptop with the bandwidth used for asking questions.... you have to keep your nose to the grindstone...particularly this week... or your car won't even be able to drive south next weekend....

I believe your problem with vacuum is any time you put a T in a line, you devide the vacuum to 2 circuits instead of one. The original ports were supplied with vacuum from a big line. so there was plenty of vacuum to each one. I don't know what for you to do other than get the correct part.

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84 500 SEL (307,xxx miles)

JimmyL,

The leak theory sounds good to me. Maybe that's why the door locks never worked. The leak one in system causes a lower vacuum (inches of mercury, not PSI) in the other vacuum system when "teed" to gether.

P E H