Well, this evening I tore into my SDL to replace the the flex pipe. I decided to go a different route than most people here and went ahead and removed the turbo so I could just do the whole manifold, glad I did and I'll tell you all why. So, the right side of my engine is now bare except for the manifold still attached to the head. A little off-topic, but how did you guys get the bottom bolt off the cross-over that the EGR attaches to? The allen bolt is hidden down in the crevace (sp?) of the exhaust manifold. So anyways, I got the turbo off so that allen bolt would be easy as would the manifold removal. The car is out of commission until Monday or so because the rims are being sandblasted then painted so I decided now was a good time.

I knew going in that it was possible to break a stud so I pre-arranged with a forum member here to let me borrow the tool he made for his extraction, that is of course if I needed it. I just sent him an email and hopefully he'll get back with me soon. He had broken the same stud on each of his SDL's within the same week, so he knows what he's doing. Well, it is the stud closest to the firewall. The wierd thing is though, I hardly put an torque on it to remove it when it practically fell out of the head. At first I thought it was just finger tight, but I was wrong and I found out quickly that it broke. It's broken about a 1/4" into the head. Well, if that's not enough, I see that the exhaust has been leaking there for a long time noted by the think soot on the gasket and the broken stud that came out had coked on soot all around it, but had a fine pink dot in the middle which must have been all the kept it together? The reason it was leaking was that my manifold is warped! So as a recap, tonight I broke a stud in the head and my exhaust manifold is warped. I'm hoping it can be ground down to make it true again, it doesn't seem too severe but definitely enough to be noticed when a straight edge is applied. What do you guys recommend I do from here? I've learned quite a bit and though some of it was a real pain I still feel rewarded from taking a whole side of the engine apart.(associated pieces I mean)

I have the turbo and all associated parts in the back of the Trailblazer that my uncle is letting me borrow off the lot. The parts I need to order to complete this are:
1.drain tube o-rings (since it's apart now I even spray painted it black)
2.any gaskets needed to put turbo back on (is there a gasket where the oil feed line attaches to the turbo?)
3.I'm going to go to the hardware store and get copper, brass, or stianless nuts to replace the ones I've removed
4.cross-over gasket (I thought I'd reuse the o-rings)

Do you guys know of anything else I should replace that isn't too much money? I lightly considered rebuilding the turbo but I think that would cost too much plus the bearings have no play. I'd just want to reseal it and clean it up. I also spray painted the brackets which hold the turbo, we'll see how long the paint lasts though. Of course, any and all suggestions welcome.

Thanks
David

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2000 Honda Accord V6 137k miles

1972 300SEL 4.5 98k miles

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Strange that the very same stud broke on all 3 cars.
I used a long hex T handle to remove the cap bolt holding the
EGR bracket.

I also had both manifold section ground on my cars.
I have, I think an extra stud and maybe enough copper bolts
12mm instead of the 13mm, if you would be interested.
I reused the washers.

Sounds like you well be needing my complete stud bolt
extraction kit, Yes. Comes with a mirror.

I also did not replace the steel square gasket that is
used were the old trap part connects on the top of
the manifold.
I just used some of BC's red sealer I had left over
from the EGR blocking plate kit.

I suggest do that now. Start spray'n that broke stud now with Kroil.
My work number is 515-332-4040/ Roger

I don't think my trap pipe had a gasket. hmmm, the nuts holding it one were very easy to remove...

I'll give you a call later today. Thanks again.

Thanks
David

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2000 Honda Accord V6 137k miles

1972 300SEL 4.5 98k miles

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lol, send me a kit while youre at it

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1980 500SE/AMG Euro
1981 500SEL Euro
1982 380SEL
1983 300TD
1983 500SEC/AMG Euro
1984 500SEC
1984 300TD Euro
1986 190E 2.3-16
1986 190E 2.3
1987 300D
1997 C36 AMG
2003 C320T 4matic

past: 1969 280SE 4.5 | 1978 240D | 1978 300D | 1981 300SD | 1981 300SD | 1982 300CD | 1983 300CD | 1983 300SD | 1983 380SEC | 1984 300D | 1984 300D | 1984 300TD | 1984 500SEL | 1984 300SD | 1985 300D | 1986 300E | 1986 560SEL | 1986 560SEL/Carat | 1987 560SEC | 1991 300D 2.5 | 2006 R350

I think the stud broke because of the warped manifold. Mine was warped in taht same spot so when the manifold would have pulled away from the head, something had to give to allow it to move. It cost me $60 to have both portions of the manifold ground. I had them do the small part so it would all line up perfectly.

Thanks
David

__________________
_____________________________________________

2000 Honda Accord V6 137k miles

1972 300SEL 4.5 98k miles

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Sent out this afternoon

I can't thank you enough. If you ever have any questions or are stuck on something, chances are I've had it apart on my car before and can offer advice. You have my cell #.

Thanks Again
David

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2000 Honda Accord V6 137k miles

1972 300SEL 4.5 98k miles

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guage, the tools arrived yesterday. I'll be leaving very shortly to give it a try. If I think I'll be unable to do it myself I'll ask my uncle to help me.

Thanks Again
David

__________________
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2000 Honda Accord V6 137k miles

1972 300SEL 4.5 98k miles

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Good Luck and take it slow

seriously, can I get a set too?

Mine turned a bit, and broke off again, this time flush with the head

__________________


1980 500SE/AMG Euro
1981 500SEL Euro
1982 380SEL
1983 300TD
1983 500SEC/AMG Euro
1984 500SEC
1984 300TD Euro
1986 190E 2.3-16
1986 190E 2.3
1987 300D
1997 C36 AMG
2003 C320T 4matic

past: 1969 280SE 4.5 | 1978 240D | 1978 300D | 1981 300SD | 1981 300SD | 1982 300CD | 1983 300CD | 1983 300SD | 1983 380SEC | 1984 300D | 1984 300D | 1984 300TD | 1984 500SEL | 1984 300SD | 1985 300D | 1986 300E | 1986 560SEL | 1986 560SEL/Carat | 1987 560SEC | 1991 300D 2.5 | 2006 R350

If I receive guage's permission I could forward it your way. Guage, next time you're coming thorugh NE Indiana could we meet up and I'll buy you a cup of coffee? I'm not old enough to buy a beer.

I extracted my broken stud this morning. I was a little off-center and thought that the last bit would be too big and dig into the head, but by the time the EZ out brought the stud out there was just barely any stud left on that side! I was lucky there but I forgot to pay close attention when remounting the manifold. All together this kit saved my life. I am definitely indebted to you.

Thanks
David

__________________
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2000 Honda Accord V6 137k miles

1972 300SEL 4.5 98k miles

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What I sent David was a 90 degree cordless drill, the drill guide plug that inserts into the stud opening in the exhaust manifold, the proper bit size for the guide and a larger bit for the EZ Out + EZ Out and thread chaser Tap.

I have a 90 degree air drill, and a tap set, but I was interested in the homemade parts

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1980 500SE/AMG Euro
1981 500SEL Euro
1982 380SEL
1983 300TD
1983 500SEC/AMG Euro
1984 500SEC
1984 300TD Euro
1986 190E 2.3-16
1986 190E 2.3
1987 300D
1997 C36 AMG
2003 C320T 4matic

past: 1969 280SE 4.5 | 1978 240D | 1978 300D | 1981 300SD | 1981 300SD | 1982 300CD | 1983 300CD | 1983 300SD | 1983 380SEC | 1984 300D | 1984 300D | 1984 300TD | 1984 500SEL | 1984 300SD | 1985 300D | 1986 300E | 1986 560SEL | 1986 560SEL/Carat | 1987 560SEC | 1991 300D 2.5 | 2006 R350

You'll need new crush washers for the oil feed line. Both ends IIRC.

The exhaust manifold nuts are copper and come somewhat ovaled. The 2001 EPC says they're 50 cents each list. Probably cheaper from a VW dealer.

There is a gasket for the turbo feed pipe? IIRC there's a cupped interface between the exhaust manifold and the feed pipe and a flat rectangular interface between the feed pipe and turbo. There was no gasket in my car and the EPC doesn't show a gasket.

The crossover pipe gasket is always a PITA in my car. I RTV it to the intake manifold before installing the crossover pipe.

It's a good time to replace the thermostat and the right side engine mount.

Before you take the turbo apart, if you plan to do so, make clocking marks because there are no indeces between the compressor, bearing and turbine segments. You'll go nuts getting everything to align if it isn't clocked just so. If you find yourself in that hole, install the turbo with the segments loose then tighten the bolts you can reach when everything's lined up. Remove the turbo and tighten the segments properly.

If you promise to only use your car off-road from now on consider capping the ARV port between where the compressor chamber transitions to the compressor outlet and the ARV chamber. It was revealed to me in a dream that a 13mm freeze plug fits perfectly. The problem with plugging the ARV vacuum line is that you're still subject to an internal failure in the ARV leaking boost to the compressor inlet. A Type 1 VW wheel cylinder piston fits nicely in the mixing pipe port where the EGR valve attaches. You can leave everything hooked up externally.

Sixto
95 S420
87 300SDL

I have no problems sending the plug guide to you when I get it back from David