Yeah I found this interesting as well becuase I saw it on your previous posts. What screw was identified as the correct one? Could it have been something else that was adjusted and then the pump was adjusted around it? I know that this one is giving good results so far and I am adjusting it a turn at a time and going to see if I can lay down some inky black stuff.

Bravo!
You have saved many people alot of hair loss.

What about this procedure is different on a 603 Dave? I know our shut-off valves are on top by the ALDA, so that is different but is the full load screw the same one as shown in the pics?

Thanks
David

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2000 Honda Accord V6 137k miles

1972 300SEL 4.5 98k miles

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The 60x and 61x pumps have very different governors, and the screws to adjust things are different. We know which ones to twiddle for the 60x pumps, but the 61x seems to be a little more finicky.

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Check out my website photos, documents, and movies!

I may be mislead but the 603's pump sure acts like it is fully governed across the entire engine speed range instead of <1100RPM and the 5400 max RPM points of the 617.952.

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Never a dull moment at Berry Hill Farm.

Hey,
Bad news guys...further adjustment of the screw doesn't yeild anything much more. I think I was merely taking up some slack in the boost inrichment mechanicals.

I called up the shop and they told me specifically which item has to be turned...it requires a special spanner wrench and is DEEP inside the IP. He said the only way to get it off (real tight) is to beat it off (not a good idea) or use the correct tool (very rare).

So it looks like there exists no easy fuel enrichment for the 617 Turbo IP. You can bring it back to spec however anything more is, at this point, a job of a IP shop.

Just to make it clear for anyone searching the forum, there exists no externally (or internally easy) adjustment to increase full load fuel. Period.

I will try to scan these documents here soon and get them posted on the forum so that you guys can see how crazy deep it is in the IP.

Brandon

Well it would have been nice if the fuel could be turned up easily but it really is no harder than pulling the pump. I haven't wanted to post the information widely for fear of the harm that may be done to innocent engines. The fact of the matter is with an easily fabricated tool one can turn the fuel up enough to melt the pistons back to slugs. I suppose that with that warning and the fact that you have to be smart enough to pull the pump and get it back in and timed properly is care enough. The full load fuel can be turned up at the large (20mm) nut like structure at the bottom center of the pump with the back cover off. There is a ring lock nut on this adjustment that should be loosened with a two pin spanner wrench. I fabricated a tool out of some 1” id stainless rail hardware. Once this lock ring is loosened then the center adjuster is turned clock wise to add fuel.

My broadband connection is down so I can’t post a picture, but if someone else wants to number the pic of the pump on my bench, I’ll ID the correct object

In my case I had an intercooler boost and EGT gauges. I made an initial adjustment of three turns. I also had to turn my ALDA back down about five turns to limit off idle smoke. All of the linkage and external stops need to be reset to allow the rack to reach full travel and safely return to idle.

Do what you will with this information it can transform your car into a real performer or destroy it if you are not careful. I am providing this for informational purposes only and I am not recommending anyone attempt this. I will not be liable for any damage you do, but I do wish the adventurous good luck!

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Bob D.
Parrish, FL
1 SDL, 1 D, 1 TD, 1 Mog

Well so much for that....I tried to normal things out but I think I got the IP on spline off....can barely move...but I need to pull it all back apart tomorrow anyway...its after 9pm and I am tired....I'm going to take Bobs adjustment to 3/4 turn...and turn brandons adjustment 1/4 turn back in.

This just means I have no A/C tomorrow. I needed to do something anyway....in 95degre temps my egt aftually went too high for the first time tonight merging onto the highway....

so 1.5 turns with bobs adjsutment on mine was too much......I'll go to 3/4 and see how that responds for me..

Nobody is exagerating when they say make small increments and keep a close eye on EGT......and 2 cars are unlikely to have identical responses to the same adjustments as evidenced between mine and H2odiesel's car.

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Proud owner of ....
1971 280SE W108
1979 300SD W116
1983 300D W123
1975 Ironhead Sportster chopper
1987 GMC 3/4 ton 4X4 Diesel
1989 Honda Civic (Heavily modified)
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Section 609 MVAC Certified
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"He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you." - Friedrich Nietzsche

You sure that this is what you are adjusting? The big nut on the back of the IP is NOT what he is speaking of (atleast it seems via my diagram)
If you are sure you are turning what he is (its dead center at the bottom) then what did you use for a spanner wrench?

The adjustment I detailed adjusts something with the ALDA enrichment circuit and although doesn't give full load adjustment, really helped pick up my midrange power. You just play with it a bit.

Brandon

Here is a picture of the special wrench requiring adjustment...

That is the adjustment I made. I spoke with H2oDiesel about this on Rusties board about 2 months ago, 3 turns out of that and my car would not run slower than 3,400 rpm....1.5 turns out and it was real reluctant to idle down to 900 rpm but it did eventually....you HAVE to use brakes to slow down at all......but had my EGT actually go into the unacceptible range today when the outside temps hit 95 degrees.

Tomorrow weather permitting I will try 3/4 turn outward from original and see how it runs.

THere is a huge difference between how my car and how H2odiesels car responded to that adjustment.

My car had 1/2 the miles on it and the pump that his had and they may play a factor into it. Our two may very well the the opposite extremes and others will find something in the middle.

I fabricated a tool to fit that locknut from a spare spark plug wrench, a air cutoff tool and a bench grinder.

__________________
Proud owner of ....
1971 280SE W108
1979 300SD W116
1983 300D W123
1975 Ironhead Sportster chopper
1987 GMC 3/4 ton 4X4 Diesel
1989 Honda Civic (Heavily modified)
---------------------
Section 609 MVAC Certified
---------------------
"He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you." - Friedrich Nietzsche

Thank you a bunch Bob for posting this...I know some people might screw this up but atleast they have to fabricate a tool first.

I couldn't distinguish in my diagrams how deep this adjustment was inside the pump. It looks as though it is very close to the outside. I will see if I can make up a diagram with tool requirments/measurements for the forum.

I will reinterate Bobs comment...do not even think of performing this modification without a pyro and boost gauge (at the very least)

I think it's dicey to even mess with increased fueling unless you've got a plan for mitigating the commensurate EGT increases--i.e. an intercooler or water injection.

Update:

I made my own spanner wrench and am currently adjusting the proper adjustment now. The IP shop led me to believe that it was harder to access. I don't even have to remove the filter tower from the car to do this job.

I will post results after I get it done...I am adjusting at about 1/4-1/3 turn intervals and it got dark.
Anyone for me modifying my website for the new meathod?

Brandon

Brandon,
Take a close look at the adjuster. You do have the correct one circled. The lock ring is at its base and locks against a plate. The adjustment is made be turning the whole assembly. You can turn it by hand. Also externally you need to re adjust the stops for the fuel lever. Back them out before you start turning things and then run them in until they catch the lever just as it reaches full travel when you move it by hand. You’ll notice the lever move toward more fuel as you make the adjustment, which means, you also need to look carefully at the linkage rods after it goes back in. I think the reason the doctor may have had a problem is he has also turned the small screw to the left of the adjustment. My source referred to this as the, "idle quantity recovery". When I was doing this after several times I could get the pump out, adjusted and back in, in under an hour. But, I was leaving out the support bracket under the back of the pump until I thought I was finished. Getting that return spring back on is a mother.

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Bob D.
Parrish, FL
1 SDL, 1 D, 1 TD, 1 Mog

Oh I know...it takes a combo long needle nose pliers and nearly piercing my finger to get that thing on. *curses*

It sucks too becuase one of the pump cover screws are right behind it.

Thanks for detailing the adjustment...I wasn't adjusting the external stuff but will do that. So the linkage will literally move farther over its range or???
Thanks

Brandon