I am putting this thread here because people had inquired as to exactly what had to be done and how to get the 603 oil pan out with the engine in the car. In one of the pictures I show my finger next to the mount and the mount arm. It is about 1 finger length, so about 4". So, you should have about 4" clearance on the right side (passenger) for the pan to slide out.

One last reminder, especially if doing this on a lift, make sure your hood is open! I went to jack it up to put the pan on which was a week after I took the pan off and the engine didn't want to go as high, hmmm, I wondered. Well, sure enough I left the hood latched. I didn't hurt the hood as I stopped going up as soon as I felt a lot of resistance.

The other pictures are illustrating where exactly you want to jack up on the engine. You'll have to use something so your jack doesn't block the oil pan area so you'll have to substitute for my tool.

One more thing, I left two bolts out of the back of the oil pan at the very back, right by the flywheel opening. Of course, it then leaked. Well, I was able to get one of the bolts at a hardware store and that seems to have slowed the leak but the other bolt is too long for a hardware store replacement. What I was wondering was, once I get this last bolt up and torqued to 84" lbs. will it stop leaking? I used no sealant on the gasket. In fact, it took me 1.5 hours (!) to get all the old gasket material off the used pan that I bought. That was a long time to be leaning over an oil pan with a razor and paint thinner!

Thanks
David

EDIT:
whoops, I forgot the pics!

Also, note my turbo brackets and drain pipe? I spray painted them when they were off for my exhaust manifold project.

Attached Thumbnails

     

__________________
_____________________________________________

2000 Honda Accord V6 137k miles

1972 300SEL 4.5 98k miles

_____________________________________________