The pistons grabbed the cylinder walls.

__________________
1985 300D California w/cat. (257,000 + Miles)
1980 300SD (208,000 + Miles)

Been reading this thread and wondered....

Anyone ever seen a device that would shut down the engine if it sensed low oil pressure?

Maybe an aftermarket item?

Of course, it could be a safety issue, if it shut down just as you were crossing the RR tracks.

Would it even work, meaning could it shut down the engine fast enough?

__________________
1984 300D 398K-daily driver
1998 Honda Accord 102K -wife's daily driver
1991 Volvo 740 289K
2000 Toyota Corolla 143K

Seems that all metal oil cooler lines at least might be better than metal ones with rubber ends that sit next to an AC belt. If you have a model like mine, there is enough clearance to strap something stronger on the belt side of the rubber hose so the belt would hit that instead of cutting through the rubber.

I'm sure pistons grabbing cylinder walls is not a positive relationship.

Thanks,
Brian

Some one in a thread on this board talks briefly about making a catastrophic oil loss indictor possibly that also shuts down the engine in such a case. I just tried a quick search and did not find it but I am pretty sure the key words are catastrophic oil loss if you can find the thread you could ask him how he did it. He did say it was quite difficult though. I just looked some more using those key words and found a few posts including one about a commercially available unit Low Oil Pressure Alarm
Dave S

Now you need to do a leak down test and a compression test to see where you stand. Are you sure it was a metal sound and not belts squeaking I am still fairly confident you have not killed the engine but you have multiple unrelated and possible related but not fatal problems. You may have destroyed the cam lobes on the IP when you ran out of oil or damaged the high pressure seals but that too is unlikely but I think more likely than serious engine damage. First failure is usually the starting system IE battery cables starter and those often all go at about the same time. Now you appear to have a fuel problem trouble shoot it one problem at a time if the engine starts and idles it is probably ok but if I were you I would do a compression test and a leak down test. You can do this in less than 3 hours and that is taking into consideration your limited mechanical experience then you will have a very detailed report on your engines condition. If that checks out go at it as a fuel problem. Regarding replacement engines most pull it your self yards will let you bring in an air compressor which allows you to do a leak down test. You find a clean wrecked car that looks like it was cared for and focus your time on those do a leak down test and you know you are getting a solid engine for what is often $79 includes every thing all accessories so you don’t have to spend a lot of time swapping parts. You will find it is very easily done to swap engines it is a very straight forward job with only about 20 bolts to be removed the hardest part is properly putting your trans mission on the new engine with out causing any oil leaks. A pair of garden sheers makes for quick removel of the donor engine from the junk yard for cutting hoses in stead of unbolting every thing. A first timer can accomplish the whole project with a friend in 2 weekends pretty easily provided you have a few pick your part type junk yards in your area to find a donor engine from. If psfred can talk me thru installing the wrong transmission in a euro Mercedes that the correct transmission was just not available for because they made less than 3 thousand world wide and none in the states. I think we can talk you thru a engine swap avoiding the common mistakes and doing things the hard way when there is a much easier way. But again I don’t think your engine is shot you just have multiple coincidental problems and possible a cooked IP but even that is a remote possibility. Go slow be analytical follow the trouble shooting matrixes to the letter assume nothing except seized engines don’t run and that is not even true. When I was 14 a friend and I each put in $25 on a Toyota corolla with a frozen engine it would not turn over when towed a lot of liquid wrench and a few days soaking and not only did it turn when towed it started. We drove that car for almost 6 months with out our parent’s knowledge when finally we hit a very large oak tree we were lucky to sustain minor injuries and very pissed parents. But I said it in an earlier post this engine is not dead a compression and leak down test are in order before spending any real dollars but now you have a fuel problem in my opinion and the fact you could not turn it by hand is good Singh It indicates high compression like 400LBS per cylinder.
DHS