OK, I get in my car and lower the front windows, get back to the office and try to raise them and they won't do anything. Everything else works, like sunroof, lights, etc. I did a search and tried the dome light test and it doesn't dim, so there is no power getting to the switch. I really don't want to remove the instrument cluster. Are there fuses anywhere other than behind there? I don't see any under the hood. I'm not a very good mechanic, by the way. Any thoughts? Also, rear windows do not work either. They are stuck up, front windows are stuck down. Its a 1984 300D.

On my dear departed 83 240D there was a relay that failed right above the steering column behind the instrument cluster. I am not sure the 300D is the same but your symptoms are the same as I had. It took me awhile to toubleshoot to it and find it, but once I replaced it, I didn't have anymore trouble.

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D. Blake
86 300SDL 340K (for sale)
83 300SD 205K (gone)
06 Chevy K3500 LBZ CCLB 50K
94 Chevy K2500 6.5L TD 250K (gone)

I can't help you with the window problem......but as far as removing the instrument cluster....it is very easy. I just pulled my out this week to replace the rheostat for the instrument dimmer. On a scale of 1 - 10 in difficulty, I'd give it a 1. It was really easy.....even for me. I did a search on here and quickly found all the info I needed. Don't think twice about pulling it out.

Good luck,
Keith

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1983 300SD "Helga"

If you remove the under dash carpet, you can push the instrument cluster out from behind. Had I known this, I wouldn't have bought the $20 instrument cluster pulling tools.

Question - wouldn't the relay be in the fuse box?


www.benzbonz.biz

Marty

Thanks for the responses. The relay is apparently located just behind the instrument cluster, based on the posts I've read here about the same issue. The fuse box has only the fuses. I suppose you could remove the fuse box and replace the relay from behind, but that sounds like a worse proposition than the cluster to me. Since I posted this, I replaced the fuses and it didn't help, so I figure its probably the relay as all four windows are non-operational. I'll tackle it this Sunday. The last time I did anything like this was with one of my MG's, but that was like working on a lawn mower. I just don't want any lasting nicks or scrapes on anything, you know what I mean? BTW, pretty cool how the MB fusebox has those slots for storing spare fuses. That may be more common in more modern cars but I've never seen it before. I have to say I was a bit impressed after I bought fuses and found the previous owner had already left me what I needed! I also remembered my brother bought me the Haynes manual after I bought the car, so I looked up the instructions for cluster removal. Not really so bad, but I am a hamfist so I need to be careful and slow...

The drivers window on my TD wasn't working when I bought it, though your problem sounds electrical in nature, it could be that the motor is turning, but not raising the window. When diagnosing my problem, I put my ear next to the door while depressing the appropriate window switch. I could hear the motor turning. I tore the whole thing down, and found that the rivites that hold the gear to the control arm were sheared off. A quickie with the mig welder solved that problem.
Baja

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For Sale: 1982 MB 300TD
1995 Chevrolet Suburban 6.5TD

Sold: 1980 IH Scout Traveler- Nissan SD33T Diesel

before you tear into the dash to get at the relay, check the switches, assuming the motor never turns one way but turns the other way the switch is probably just dirty.
Unfortunately the left and right window switches on the console are different and can't be swapped for troubleshooting.
Removing a switch makes it easy to clean. First be careful not to loose the parts by doing this on a clean workarea. Pull the top rocker off by prying each side retaining arms with a thin screwdriver or pocketknife to free it. As it comes off, carefully note that there are two tiny springs that fit into plastic channels and press a bb against the bottom where the pins come thru to make contact momentarily when the rocker is pressed one way or the other. If you spill any drinks into the switch the residue settl;es to the bottom where electrical contact is made thus no current will flow. Many times dabbing a little windex or hot water in there will dissolve the gunk and make the switch work again. BTW this doesn't appy to earlier models with the sealed switches that have chrome faces on them.
If it still doesn't work then you got more work ahead of you.

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'95 E320 Wagon my favorite road car. '99 E300D wolf in sheeps body, '87 300D Sportline suspension, '79 300TD w/ 617.952 engine at 367,750 and counting!

I would check the actual window switch cluster / board. In the past, whenever my power windows for any car stopped working it was either the switch cluster or the window motor.

Replace the fuses first -- there are two of them for the windows, one for right front/left rear, the other for left front/right rear.

Likely they are bad from corrosion (you probably want to replace all the fuses if they look dirty, they are aluminum and crack!).

Otherwise, the relay will cause all the windows to fail -- you can jumper it to see if the window motors actually work.

Both front or both rear windows not working is not a fuse, though...

Peter

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1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!

In my wife's '82 300D, I did swap the switches (Left - Right) to give me time to look for a replacement switch. I did need to keep the window lock switch connector on the switch which has the window lock switch.

Speaking of which:
Not being "cute" or anything, but I always look for the simplest answer to any problem.
Have you checked that the window lock switch is ON?
This is the button between the front and back window switches on the driver's side switch group. It prevents use of any of the window switches.

Edit 31/07/05.
As I couldn't obtain any switches, I opened up the faulty switch and cleaned to contacts. It was so easy, it should have been illegal That was 12 months ago, no problems with the switches since.

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Tony from West Oz.
Fatmobile 3 84 300D 295kkm Silver grey/Blue int. 2 tank WVO - Recipient of TurboDesel engine.
Josephine '82 300D 390kkm White/Palamino int.
Elizabeth '81 280E, sporting a '79 300D engine.
Lucille '87 W124 300D non-turbo 6 cylinder OM603, Pearl Grey with light grey interior


Various parts cars including 280E, 230C & 300D in various states of disassembly.

OH, clever idea, I'll remember that next time, er, I don't really need to use that technique because I have several spare switches for troubleshooting
Still, its very likely that opening them and cleaning them will restore operation. Its amazing that they are serviceable like this, I have seen many switches that were throwaways. Another plus for quality in the 80's Benzs

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'95 E320 Wagon my favorite road car. '99 E300D wolf in sheeps body, '87 300D Sportline suspension, '79 300TD w/ 617.952 engine at 367,750 and counting!

dont know about a relay for windows but most of the relays are on a pedistal under the hood next to the fuse box. they are aluminum cubes. you can move them around and test them that way.

tom w

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

Well, here's what I did:

1. Replaced fuses, still didn't work.

2. Replaced relay behind the console, still didn't work.

3. Opened up switches and and cleaned out a little gunk. Not a thourough cleaning, just got out any gunk I could see. Still didn't work.

I'm out of ideas unless someone else has one. I think I'm going to bring it in to a shop (errrr!). They'll probably tell me I need a whole new window operating system.
Let me know if anyone has any other ideas!!

and not just the housings. Some of the switches have plastic pivots rather than a BB and should be lubricated to prevent sticking in "up" or "down" position.

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Jim

'49 170?(donated to church in Darmstadt '58)
'58 220S(crusher, after '73 fire[San Antonio])
'72 280SE 4.5
'77 240D
'81 300SD
'83 240D parts car

i would state my problem, however it is EXACTLY the same as the very first post on this thread. Exactly the same meaning everything..so i read the thread and im now looking for this instrument cluster. I have googled it for pictures and where it is located, but im having no luck. Ive checked the fuses...good, checked the switches seem to be fine, though i have no real way of knowing. This happened once before, i just waited a couple of hours and front windows just rolled up when i tried it later on. This time it s not working.

My questions are:
Where is the instrument cluster?
How do you access it, from under the hood or through the panel under the steering wheel?
Once i find this "cluster" will the relay be right behind it?
What does a bad relay look like?

im 25 years old, with little mechanical expirence, however since i was 16 i have always tried to fix the problem myself before taking it to pro. please be detailed in your answers to the post.

Thank you for your time and advice in advance.