On Strider, I adjusted the pin last night (it's a new style), but I want to make sure I'm doing it right.

I backed off until the engine began to shake, then screwed in just until it stopped. It's much better, but I think it could still be improved. If I just want to try incremental adjustments, would I further tighten or loosen the pin?


A tip in repairing the cruise control: I resoldered the amp with no change - dead as a doorknob. Then I swapped the under-hood actuator from my dead 300SD and it works great! It's not always the amp - this is the second time I've replaced the actuator in an MB. You can ususally get them for about $75 used.

Though I have only had it for a short time, I am very impressed with this car. At over 400k, it is tight and rides beautifully (partly because, no doubt, of the new bilsteins in front) and has more power than either of my SD's. There is no blowby from the oil cap, no oil leaks anywhere, everything, including the AC, cruise, and even the power antenna works. The transmission is a little tired, but still shifts well. There are no rattles or groans in the car, even on my dirt road. The car has the original engine and transmission.

The car is a testimonial to proper on-time maintenance and is the poster-car for the non-synthetic oil camp - nothing but dino over the years in all systems.

The goal is to hit 500k on the original engine/transmission. Only three years to go!

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1984 300Sd 210k

Former cars:
1984 300D 445k (!!) (Strider) Original (and not rebuilt) engine and transmission. Currently running on V80 ( 80% vegetable oil, 20% petroleum products). Actually not, taking a WVO break.
1993 300d 2.5 275k. Current 120/day commuter
1981 300SD 188k (Hans) Killed by a deer