So after dealing with a terrible noise every bump and seeing the shock fluid leaking all around lower shock mounts Im gonna change out the rear shocks. Ive done some searches but most of em come up with info on the 123. Is it any different? As far as i know it goes like this, tell me if Im wrong:
-take out back seat and undo upper shock mount
-raise rear of the car and support the car with jackstands by the tires (im kinda confused about this)
-unbolt lower mount
-compress shock and remove.

Is it that simple or are there things i should watch out for. im assuming installation is the reverse of removal. Also i am going to be replacing the sway bar links...what else should I replace one time (bushings?)?

Thanks guys. Because of all the help ive recieved on this sitev Ive learned and been able to do so many things to my car that i would have other wise been clueless about. Saved me a lot of $$$ too...If for nothing else just by being informed when I go to the repair shop.

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1983 300SD White with Grey interior

sure it is identical to 123.

tom w

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..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

The procedure is basically as you have indicated with a couple of caveats:

Once the upper shock mount is removed, the trailing arm is free to travel downward until it hits the stop on the subframe. This is quite a bit further than normal and it puts a pretty good strain on the brake hose. I didn't remove the brake hose, but, probably should have.

If you raise the vehicle high enough, roughly the height of a typical hydraulic floor jack, by supporting the differential, you can then block it up using jack stands under the jack points just forward of the wheel wells. Put some wood on the top of the jack stands to protect the body.

The shock will drop out the bottom of the spring without the need to compress it, if the body was jacked sufficiently high. It will be very difficult to compress the shock, if you had to, because it's fully enclosed by the spring.

It takes longer to jack the vehicle and support it properly than it does to change the shocks.

it is that easy.
I have removed mine three times to do other service, 1985 W126 300SD.

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is removing the seat back. imho
not hard really just time consumint and a pita.

tom w

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

Thanks guys....makes me glad i dont have a self leveling vehicle.

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1983 300SD White with Grey interior

Putting it back in is harder
Stupid screws never seem to want to line up...

if you are unfamiliar with how to remove the rear seat. On the W126, the lower section has (2) sliding clips at the bottom, slide to unlock and lift it out. Then the back support has brackets at the bottom, remove the screws and lift up.

I second the statement made by Brian. It takes longer to jack and stabilize it than to change the shocks.

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Sam

84 300SD 350K+ miles ( Blue Belle )

I received my new Bilstein shocks today and I have a question. Everything I have read concerning rear shocks says to support the control arm.
So I raise the vehicle. Put a jackstand under the jacking point foward of the wheel. Remove the tire. Support the control arm. Remove top bolts then remove bottom bolts. Shock should drop out. Raise or lower control arm after bolting down top of shock to get the lower bolts lined up.
Is this procedure correct?
Also it says to torque down with vehicle weight on wheels. Is that really necessary?

Danny

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1984 300SD Turbo Diesel 150,000 miles

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If you raise the vehicle before removing the top nuts on the shock, then you must support the trailing arm. But, if you remove those nuts before you raise the vehicle, then, when you raise it, the trailing arm will drop until it stops on the subframe. You need to watch the brake line in this case.

When you go under and remove the two lower screws, the shock will drop out, provided the vehicle is high enough. Remember the shock is fully extended and you need to drop it down and rotate it before the piston gets jammed in the spring. So, sufficient vehicle height is required.

When you install the new shock, the lower screws are installed, but, you can't put the top nuts on until the vehicle is lowered and has compressed the shock somewhat. You can also do this with a jack underneath the trailing arm, if you wish.

Thanks that answers my question.

If I put it up on ramps then I don't have to support anything just remove and replace? The bottom bolts will line up this way?

Danny

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1984 300SD Turbo Diesel 150,000 miles

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After putting the jack stands under the rear lifting pads I stuck the jack under the rear subframe to control and support it after the shock was disconnected. I'd rather not let it hang down.

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If you put it up on ramps, the shock remains fully compressed. You can remove the upper mounting nuts, but the gas pressure in the shock is going to drive the bottom end downward when you remove the two lower screws. It will probably work this way to remove the existing shocks, however, you probably won't get the new shocks into position because you won't be able to compress them and start the lower screws at the same time.

Better to support the body and allow the trailing arm to move downward and contact the subframe. Watch those brake hoses.

I won't care if it hangs down. Only the brake hose will care.

Yeah and I would rather not replace brake lines that I don't have to! I putthe car on jack stands before touching the shock. Then I used a jack to compress the subframe and get the nut off the top of the shock. This also works great for getting the new one in since new Bilsteins don't really compress much. It is simpler to jack the subframe up a bit more to ease the shock in then jack the entire car.

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1969 280SE
2023 Ram 1500
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