I just replaced my timing chain on a 300SD (83). I put everything back together and thought, "Should have I adjusted the valves (or even checked them) before I put the valve cover back on"?

So, do the valves need to be adjusted after changing the timing chain?

It's hard to say if they need adjusting without measuring them. I'd at least check them.

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1987 300SDL 167k
1992 Volvo 740 140k
1990 Volvo 740 250k
1989 Volvo 240 269k

Anyone want to trade an old Volvo for an '87 300sdl?

The process of replacing the chain won't affect the valve lash. It will affect the cam timing........hopefully returning it to spec. It also will affect the injection timing, also causing it to advance.

But, with the valve cover off...........why would you neglect to check and adjust the valves?

Yes, while you have the valve cover(s) off you should check the valve adjustments. So, it's a judgement call on your part whether to take the cover(s) off and all that entails. If your engine isn't running as it should after putting a new chain on it would be a good idea to go back and check the valve adjustments.

thanks will do....I suppose I should try to adjust the injection pump timing, but HOW THE HECK DO YOU ACTAULLY get to the rear pump mounting bolt?

Ahh, yes, that rear bolt.

First you have to find it. This takes at least 20 minutes. But, I'll tell you how to shorten it to about five:

Lay down on top of the engine and peer over the space between the IP and the oil filter housing. Get a very strong light and look all the way down, very close to the spring return spring for the IP. You will see only the head of the bolt.

Time for the first beer and contemplation on how to get to it.

Go out and buy the longest possible 13mm box wrench you can find. It must be at least 10 inches to go from the point just behind the VCV all the way down to the head of the bolt.

Remove the rack dampener bolt on the back of the IP. You won't have enough swing room for the wrench unless you do a custom bend on it. Ask me how I know.

Lower away and carefully snag the head of the bolt and move the wrench away from the engine until it hits the oil cooler line. Remove wrench and repeat three times. The bolt is loose enough to allow the IP to rotate.

Tightening the bolt is easier. It's easier to snag the bolt head with the wrench right above the oil cooler line and move it closer to the engine.

The three bolts on the front of the IP are no problem as compared to the rear one. The inboard bolt is best accessed with about 12" of extensions, a 13mm socket, and a universal.

You must find and loosen that rear bolt. I was unsuccessful in reaching the proper IP timing with the bolt engaged.

That's depressing because that inside bolt looks like it'll be horrible difficult to get to. I'm going to replace my chain as soon as its my turn for the crimper on the tool loaning program. I'm going to check my timing while I'm at it. Thanks for the advice about how to get to it, and for mentioning that rear bolt. I had no idea there was one.

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Seth

1984 300D 225K
1985 300D Donor body
1985 300D Turbo 165K. Totaled. Donor Engine. It runs!!!
1980 300SD 311K My New Baby.
1979 BMW 633csi 62K+++? Dead odo