I've also had a cheap 6 amp charger for years, and it's never been a problem. It will fully charge a decent battery overnight, and in most cases will get it "charged enough" to start in a couple of hours. My experience is that if that charger is not adequate, either I need a new battery, or I have other bigger problems.

WHunter,

I think you mean a low current (amperes) charger not a low voltage charger.

I know a high current charger will have a higher terminal voltage but only by a few volts.

P E H

You are correct.
I did not state it correctly, that is what edit is for.

Thats also a bad volt regulator, or alternator...
I have the latter, because I replaced the previous... Still dim at idle, speaker still kackles during startup...

Merry Christmas, Why am I up?
~Nate

__________________
95 Honda Shadow ACE 1100.
1999 Plymouth Neon Expresso. 2.4 swap, 10.5 to 1 comp, big cams. Autocross time attack vehicle!
2012 Escape, 'hunter" (5 sp 4cyl)

Nope, you read wrong. I said dims while cranking as in while the starter is engaged. The starter, headlights and glow plugs are the load and the brightness of the headlights gives you an indication of the voltage under a load.

Another battery test that can be done by the home mechanic is checking the voltage cell by cell. You can check the voltage from the negative terminal to the electrolyte in each cell. Each cell should add about 2.1 volts. If you find a cell that does not add it's share then you have a bad cell and the battery needs to be replaced.

If you don't understand this and the dangers involved, don't try it.

It is a lot easier and safer to let an autoparts store do a free battery and charging system test.

I think this is the key to the diagnosis, without being there of course. One of two things happened. A.) The battery has failed due to the plates being shorted, or B.) cable connections are corroded and need to be cleaned.

__________________
But what do I know...

1984 300SD 256k

ok i just tested the battery i had the car at idle and the meter read 12.1 volts.. and at 2k rpm it was reading 13.55 on the meter

TheDon,

What you did was test your charging system, not the battery.

That sounds about right so your charging system (alternator, regulator, brushes and connecting wires) is OK.

You still have to do a load test on the battery. Connect your voltmeter leads across the battery posts (not the cable clamps) and crank the engine with the starter. THe battery should be fully charged when U do this.

How much does the voltage drop? How long will the starter crank the engine? Do this when the engine is cold and won't start. You can pull out the cable connecting the GP to the GP relay so engine won't start.

P E H

oj P.E. ill do that test tomorrow.. when i can get ahold of the volt meter

TheDon,

Buy yourself an electronic multimeter. They can be bought for $20. When I bought mine 15 years ago, they were $80 or more.

P E H

volt ohm meter $15.49
http://www.radioshack.com/search/index.jsp?kwCatId=&kw=volt%20ohm%20meter

I am getting one of these tomorrow:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/141238-car-thermometer-voltmeter-%244-97-a.html#post1055502