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  #46  
Old 12-31-2005, 09:29 PM
Matt SD300's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Carlton
Excellent photo and it exhibits my theory quite well.

Take a close look at the seating surface. See the annular rings that are imbedded in the aluminum? These rings are from the crush washer. The rings are designed to flatten out a bit and seal on the flat aluminum face. However, with massive torque, they dig into the aluminum, as you can see here. So, when you take a new crush washer, you are attempting for it to function on a grooved aluminum surface. This is very difficult for it to do.

For proper function, without a lot of torque, the grooves need to be carefully eliminated from this surface with a stone.

Then, a brand new crush washer should be utilized.

Finally, the torque should not be so heavy that the copper rings on the washer damage the aluminum by imbedding the grooves into it. The seal should be easy to make if the aluminum is flat.
YOUR Still NOT LISTENING....With the proper "o" ring installed that bolt will seal without a copper washer. Ok ...try this take off the LARGE "O" RING & see if that bolt dont leak!!
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  #47  
Old 12-31-2005, 10:15 PM
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Oh I solved it already, I used my orange sealant around the bolt yesterday, let it cure for 28 hours...drove it today, its dry as a bone. Problem solved. Sealant is way easier than filing that housing down.
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  #48  
Old 12-31-2005, 10:18 PM
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Or

Apply a thin coat of wheel bearing grease to the surface of the mating parts, whether that is a crush washer or just the bolt. The grease fills the imperfections in the surfaces and creates a seal without alot of torque.
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  #49  
Old 12-31-2005, 10:19 PM
pawoSD's Avatar
Dieselsüchtiger
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ched454
Apply a thin coat of wheel bearing grease to the surface of the mating parts, whether that is a crush washer or just the bolt. The grease fills the imperfections in the surfaces and creates a seal without alot of torque.

I might try this next time as it'd be a little less messy and slightly easier.... either way works though.
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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'89 420SEL 168k - mine (OC-170,000)
'93 190D 2.2 - 223k - mine (OC-222,700)
'01 E320 Wagon - 149k - mine (OC-154,000)
'05 C240 4matic Wagon - 153k - wifes (OC-154,500)
'01 E320 - 162k - Dad's (OC-163,500)
'07 E350 Wagon - 116k - dad's (OC-121,500)
'02 E320 - 193k - Brother's (OC - 192,000)
'09 E350 4matic Sedan - 84k - Brothers (OC-85,500)
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  #50  
Old 12-31-2005, 10:50 PM
Matt SD300's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pawoSD
I might try this next time as it'd be a little less messy and slightly easier.... either way works though.
Somthing is NOT right if you have to Mcgiver it. Next time get the RIGHT PARTS!......... Lame thread.. Its just a fuel filter change! LOL
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1984 300SD.. White/Chrome Bunts..Green

1997 2500 Dodge Ram 5.9 Cummins 12 Valve 36 PSI of Boost = 400+hp & 800+tQ .. ..Greenspeed

2004 Dodge Ram 2500 4x4 Quad Cab Cummins 5.9 H.O "596hp/1225tq" 6 spd. Man. Leather Heated seats/Loaded..Flame Red....GREENSPEED

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Fight the good fight!......
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  #51  
Old 12-31-2005, 10:52 PM
Austin85's Avatar
Smells like Diesel..
 
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Yeah BUMP that.

That's why I didn't bother reading through the posts
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  #52  
Old 12-31-2005, 11:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt SD300
YOUR Still NOT LISTENING....With the proper "o" ring installed that bolt will seal without a copper washer. Ok ...try this take off the LARGE "O" RING & see if that bolt dont
I think the afore mentioned is inaccurate.

The o-ring on 615 series fuel filter heads (aluminum housing the filter is mounted to) of all designs utilizing a spin on filter use to seal fuel to fuel, as Brain succinctly describe, the copper washer provides system integrity from external leakage of fuel and air infiltration to the fuel steam.

Sorry, the only spin on installation that is protected with only o-rings is with a 601 series filter head, and even that design has changed along with the 615 filter head, neither require the inner or lower o-ring as the fuel filter it self now has a center seal that replaces the need for the lower or inner ring. The latest orifice bolt for a 601 series filter head has but 1 o-ring land, and the latest orifice bolt for a 615 filter head requires only the copper crush washer. Please check directly with MB as they will confirm what I have written.

Carefully refacing the crush seal seat on the filter head as Brian detailed is the best and most effective way to correct the leakage issue. The grease (especially aviation grade GPG) and sealant fortifications are nice insurance with new washers on worn installations, but are totally inadequate substitutions for always renewing the copper crush washer at every filter change.
-MG
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========
THE WHITE FLEET
2012 S350 Bluetec==80k WHITE
2007 ML320 CDI==140K WHITE
2005 E320 CDI--138K--WHITE
1995 E300-Diesel-325K--THE CAR IS BLUE. (For Sale!)

Under new management:
1986 300SL--97.5K (European) AND WHITE.
1991 190E 2.3-73K California Perfect.--WHITE
1995 E320-Wagon-159K--WHITE (recently scrapped)
1987 300D Turbo-213K--WHITE
1987 190D 2.5 Turbo-288K--WHITE

Last edited by markg612; 12-31-2005 at 11:11 PM.
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  #53  
Old 01-01-2006, 03:58 PM
Hatterasguy's Avatar
Zero
 
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Location: Milford, CT
Posts: 19,267
Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt SD300
Ok heres the FACTS....

For almost a year now "My" fuel filter banjo bolt HAS NOT HAD A COPPER WASHER (bought it that way)& NO LEAKING...Just the banjo bolt to the aluminum housing.. WHY??? THE LARGE "O" RING AT THE TOP OF THE BOLT MAKING THE SEAL!!! Come on guys THINK why would they put a "O" ring on the TOP of the bolt???....this thread is almost scary

You have a different style bolt and housing. Ever time I order the crush washers they need the vin. I think MB used 3-5 different styles. I know they used two different crush washers, I guess one style must get rid of the washer all together. (like the 603, later one probably)

A larger rubber o ring at the top of the bolt is probably a good idea, it would be re usable.

This isn't a lame thread, this is a pita 617 problem. Leaking fuel is making a mess on the driveway and making my dad mad at me!
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  #54  
Old 01-02-2006, 05:27 PM
Palangi's Avatar
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Apparently there are several versions of filter bolt.

I just checked both of my 84's, a 240D and a 300D. Both have the same setup, which does not match the pictured setup. There are no copper washers under the bolt heads. Both have an o-ring as pictured just above the threads, and both have a larger o-ring just below the bolt head. I have to assume that they both came this way.

If I add a copper washer, I would be raising both o-rings relative to the filter height. It is only a tiny distance, but could that be enough to risk mixing filtered with unfiltered fuel?

Do I want to add copper washers or leave them as is?
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  #55  
Old 01-02-2006, 11:18 PM
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Smells like Diesel..
 
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What is the deal here?

I have changed about 7 or 8 spin ons on my 300D in the last 5 months or so, because of WVO and algae bugs in the tank. I even just changed one tonight in like 2 1/2 minutes in a parking lot on the way to dinner.
I have never had any type of fuel leak or any trouble with washers O-rings or Orange silly putty on my housing. I don't even see any washers or O- rings on the bolt or housing.
After reading this thread I am considering using the spin on housing to fill my tank instead of the traditional fuel door in the rear. How do I get my housing to start leaking like everyone elses???
(:
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  #56  
Old 01-03-2006, 12:59 AM
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Next time slip a zip lock baggie over the filter from the bottom, unscrew the filter and let it drop into the baggie. Saves the dreaded Dinosaur odor on hands and spills all over your engine and the environment. Works good on oil filters too.
PD
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  #57  
Old 01-03-2006, 02:03 AM
pawoSD's Avatar
Dieselsüchtiger
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Grand Rapids, MI
Posts: 14,861
Quote:
Originally Posted by Oilburner
Next time slip a zip lock baggie over the filter from the bottom, unscrew the filter and let it drop into the baggie. Saves the dreaded Dinosaur odor on hands and spills all over your engine and the environment. Works good on oil filters too.
PD

That is genius!! I never even thought of that! We even have big freezer bags!! I am doing this from now on, especially when doing the oil filter on our van, it drools all over the place.........
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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'89 420SEL 168k - mine (OC-170,000)
'93 190D 2.2 - 223k - mine (OC-222,700)
'01 E320 Wagon - 149k - mine (OC-154,000)
'05 C240 4matic Wagon - 153k - wifes (OC-154,500)
'01 E320 - 162k - Dad's (OC-163,500)
'07 E350 Wagon - 116k - dad's (OC-121,500)
'02 E320 - 193k - Brother's (OC - 192,000)
'09 E350 4matic Sedan - 84k - Brothers (OC-85,500)
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  #58  
Old 08-09-2010, 05:14 PM
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Awesome read..thanks whunter!
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  #59  
Old 08-09-2010, 10:10 PM
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Is it possible that what you are calling "dirt" is really diesel oil fungus/mold?

glad to learn that she "screams"

3 pointstart
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  #60  
Old 08-10-2010, 10:26 AM
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This thread is comparable to this discussion on the crush washers and "O" rings.

Fuel filter O-ring

Charlie
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