When I replaced the 123 mirrors to the upgrade from the 126, I don`t remember the year the 126 was. If it was first or second generation.

The wires didn`t have the spades. so I cut the wires as long as possible from the old mirrors and new mirrors to be soldered. Be sure to slip on a piece of heat shrink tubing before soldering the wires together.

Charlie

__________________
there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works

tangofox007, do you mean cut off the spade connectors or solder in spade connector receivers on the current wiring in the sun visors that are on the car? The problem is that I cannot connect them right now because my vehicle is prod. Jan 84 and the mirrors I want to buy are 86+. Mine has the spades and the replacements call for soldering according to speedy300dturbo. Also, the seller has indicated these need to be soldered in.

charmalu, does that mean you cut off the spades on your sun visors and were able to successfully solder the replacement mirrors in? It seems that if the only difference in the wiring is whether or not spades are present that it would be easy to simply cut the spades off and progress with the soldering. Thanks.

__________________
1984 300 SD 384,000 Miles

The visors I have delt with did not have the spades. whether you solder the wires or use the spades or have to solder on spades on the new mirror if they are not there. you will be doing some soldering. I personally like to solder for good continunity. which ever way you go, you will probably never be back in there again once it is glued back together.

Actually I don`t remember seeing spades on any of the visors at PNP that have been ripped apart and destroyed by the vandels going through the cars.

I`ll start giving them a closer visual when I see them.

One thing I did notice when I used the 126 visors compared to the 123 visors from my 85 123. the 126 reflective metal piece is curved over the bulb to cut the glare. that is a good up grade along with the better hinges and light switch.

Charlie

__________________
there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works

Ok...I just took mine apart and I found spades. There is a blue wire and a gray wire. The spades are glued onto their receivers. I think I'll cut off the spades from the wiring.

Question is: when I get the new mirror are there going to be two wires and will it be obvious which needs to be soldered to which? Maybe blue to blue and gray to gray? Thanks

__________________
1984 300 SD 384,000 Miles

I asked the seller. He said some have black and white wires instead of blue and gray.

Any thoughts on whether white goes with blue or gray on my visor?

It's not clear whether black or gray (on replacement mirrors) goes with blue or gray on my visors.

Maybe it doesn't matter which goes to which?

Thanks

__________________
1984 300 SD 384,000 Miles

Yeah, I don`t think it makes any difference on the wires.

Charlie

__________________
there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works

I meant that you should configure the new visor in the same manner as the original, ie: crimp or solder on some new connectors. That way, you won't melt your headliner or drip solder on your dash board.

Guys ---- I've got a box full of sun visors. Do I need to pull them down?

__________________
daw_two
Germantown, TN

Links:
Sold last car --- 05/2012 1984 300D Light Ivory, Red interior
No longer selling Cluster Needles Paint
No longer selling New Old Stock (NOS) parts

Past:
3/2008 1986 300SDL "Coda"
04/2010 1965 190D(c) "Ben"
& many more

Take out the 2 little screws that hold the visor to the overhead, and solder it at your work bench. I can`t imagine trying to solder them while still installed. also the mirror would be dangling by the wires, and it still has to be glued in.

Just don`t use Hot Glue, it wIll loose it`s grip in a hot day.

Be sure to wear safety glasses when soldering.


Charlie

__________________
there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works

Yes, I have already removed them from the car. Definitely not worth trying to solder when in the car. daw_two I already ordered a pair off E-Bay but thanks anyways. Hopefully they are good.

It's a tough question about the glue - one I have been deliberating. Either you use something very strong which will not loosen and fall out (Gorilla glue comes to mind) or hot glue which may cause the mirror to fall out on a really hot day. The thing is... if you use a super adhesive then this repair will not really be possible ever again. We have to thank MB in this instance for using a glue which we could remove - otherwise we would be forced to replace the entire visor.

__________________
1984 300 SD 384,000 Miles

The job is done with good results. A couple of points:

(1) If you get replacements get 1986+ mirrors. The earlier mirrors have covers over the mirrors that are attached by small plastic connecting rods that pop into the unit on the RH and LH sides. As the plastic gets old and flexes the units no longer operate smoothly and the plastic frames or covers break. Also the covers don't set flush against the frames.

The post 1986+ mirrors have a different hinge structure that is much better. My guess is that not many pre-1986 mirror assemblies are any good so if you order a set of used ones you'll probably end up with the 1986+ mirrors which is a good thing. Make sure you specify you don't want a set with airbag warnings if your car doesn't have airbags.

(2) As previously mentioned the 1986+ mirrors have a slightly different wiring set-up. The pre-1986 mirrors have spade connectors. If you get 1986+ mirrors splice off the spades from your wires when removing the assembly. When you get your replacement you will have to solder the wires together. The spades were glued on at the factory so trying to remove them will be difficult anyways if you want them intact.

When you get your 1986+ mirror to fit to your pre-1986 sun visor you will see that both the sun visor and the new assembly have two wires. Both have a blue one so those go together. In my case the 2nd wire on my sun visor was white and the replacement mirror's 2nd wire was gray. Not a problem. In this case, blue with blue and white with gray.

(3) I chose to use hot glue because I like the fact that I can remove and replace the mirrors if they break again. If you use a super strength adhesive you will not be able to do this repair again.

I used generous amounts of hot glue to set the mirrors in place. Only time will tell if they hold but I am confident based on what I see now.

__________________
1984 300 SD 384,000 Miles