As I said in another recent post, I've been eight months without a Mercedes diesel, and I just bought one cheap with problems. I don't know yet if it is worth spending money on.

Anyone have strong opinions on trying to use a JB weld type product on the radiator?

I've used epoxy on radiators in the past. Sometimes it has held up for years. Othertimes not as long. Always worth a try. I like Supermend Epoxy, I've had a lot of success with it.

__________________
1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

Its worth a try. Epoxy fixes can last an incredibly long time but can also be prone to random failure. If you choose to fix a radiator that way, you should keep a close eye on your coolant levels (just get in the habit of glancing at the reservoir on a regular basis), and keep your eye open for a good deal on a new or good condition used radiator to keep on hand for the day that the inevitable occurs.

peace,
sam

__________________
"That f***in' biodiesel is makin' me hungry."

1982 300TD Astral Silver w/ 250k (BIO BNZ)
2001 Aprilia SR50 Corsa Red w/ 5.5k (>100 MPG)

Its probably a decent temp fix. Marine Tex makes an epoxy that is supposed to work well on plastic. I have never used it though, all I can go by is what they claim.

__________________
1999 SL500
1969 280SE
2023 Ram 1500
2007 Tiara 3200

I've used Marine Tex. It's quite a product. I used it to seal a block crack in a Chevy 235 nearly 30 years ago. It brought a pouring leak to a seep. Had I more experience with options for surface preparation, I probably could have stopped it completely. I used the "gray" type which I believe is supposed to be the stronger.

__________________
'82 300SD - 361K mi - "Blue"

"Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement."

listen, look, .........and duck.

Years ago I replaced the upper radiator hose inlet with a
piece of plastic sold as a radiator hose splice and some JB weld.
It held for many years.
I was careful to let it cure, and pressure tested it prior to use.
It lasted much longer than I expected.

I think your primary concern is getting the radiator very VERY clean and perhaps even roughing up the surface to expose some fresh plastic (assuming we are talking about plastic here).

Might hit it with a little acetone or something first too.

I have used Metal set A4 and JB weld on the plastic top of the radiator on my 81 300 D

The Metal set did not work.

The JB weld did.

I took a wire wheel attached to a die grinder to the plastic first to clean and roughen the surface. Then some 80 grit sandpaper. Then wiped it clean with paint thinner.

It seems the better prep work you do, the better results you get.

Thanks
Rich

__________________

When the power of love overcomes the love of power the world will know peace.
Jimi Hendrix

pretty much sums it up.

__________________
'82 300SD - 361K mi - "Blue"

"Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement."

listen, look, .........and duck.

In my experience, that type of repair will get you the fartherest away from help when you break down.

__________________
95 SL500 Smoke Silver, Parchment 64K
07 E350 4matic Station Wagon White 34K
02 E320 4Matic Silver/grey 80K
05 F150 Silver 44K

Even the cheapest to rebuild MB engines cost thousands to rebuild and that's if you are lucky enough that there are reusable cores. Is it really worth it to take such a risk? For a couple of hundred dollars you can have the radiator fixed or whatever at the local radiator shop. Even if it costs $500, it's cheaper than a fresh engine.

All that said, I had a radiator fixed at a local shop one time with a type of plastic solder of sorts. I considered it a temporary fix, but got a new radiator anyway. I sold the car 50,000 miles or so later and the patch was still in place no problems. This was not an epoxy product and I have not heard of it before or since.

Good luck,

I used JB Weld in a pinch once on my SD. Held up fine until I changed the radiator out.

__________________
I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look.

'85 300SD 245k
'87 300SDL 251k
'90 300SEL 326k

Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford.

Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.[/IMG]

I'm afraid that sometimes, it is worth it to do the cheap fix. He did say it was a new-to-him 300D with problems. I wouldn't throw a 500$ radiator at an engine that may turn out to have a bad bottom end. The JB Weld, if properly applied, will last more than long enough to decide if the engine is worth keeping.

It makes more sense to do cheap fixes until you have a chance to fully evaluate the situation, and then, if you decide the car/engine is worth it, start making final repairs.

peace,
sam

__________________
"That f***in' biodiesel is makin' me hungry."

1982 300TD Astral Silver w/ 250k (BIO BNZ)
2001 Aprilia SR50 Corsa Red w/ 5.5k (>100 MPG)

I dropped my yamaha xt600z motorcycle once, the gear changer punched a hole in the left side crankcase cover. I removed the cover, degreased and roughened up the cast aluminium. Then I placed a wire gauze inside the crankcase cover (slightly larger than the hole and poured JB weld over the wire gauze. The JB weld flowed over the gauze and around the edges of the hole. Did the same to the outside of the crankcase cover. This fix lasted about 4 years till someone pulled out in front of me one day -insurance payed for a new crankcase cover during subsequent repairs.

If you must use JB Weld on the radiator, make sure you thoroughly clean the surrounding area, degrease and roughen up the surface. Pour some JB weld into the hole (assuming a small hole) then rotate, angle the radiator so that the JB Weld flows around the edges of the inside of the radiator -you will obviously need to have removed the radiator first. The reason for this is because you do not want the internal pressures within the radiator to blow the hardened material straight out when on the road -if the patch has flowed around the inside edges of the hole, this is less likely to happen.

If it were me though, for peace of mind, I would either replace the radiator or have it fixed professionally -have the hole brazed over.

__________________
1992 300D 2.5 Turbodiesel 96,000 miles

Hey Judge, why not just put another in there? Patched radiators suck when they fail.
I have a couple radiators sitting around here, and go to Oakland all the time, you should just pm me.
We can't discern what model you have though, consider putting it into your signature...

__________________
Think Alternative Energy!
300CD '80 (now gone but not forgotten...)