Pictorial on how to replace the axle boots. - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Jmana · #16 01-19-2006, 09:43 PM

I would really like to see a pictoral of the axle removal and replacement procedures

nazrat · #17 01-19-2006, 10:51 PM

I've seen it done on a 4x4 with a cone that looks like a normal funnel. You could probably grease up a blitz funnel and slide it on. I'm not sure how stiff those boots are though. I'll say that some of the so-called indestructable boots are really really tough and really tight. Getting a grease covered boot over the CV cup to put the band on can be quite a challenge. While speaking of changing CV boots on the front axle of a Trooper, I commented that it was a job that everyone should have to do once just so that they can appreciate how much it sucks.

I need new boots so I'll be looking for a set of these. It sure beats cutting the framis and pushing the hickey-mo-see back onto the doodle before crimping the greasy part onto the other greasy part.

-Tad

Diesel Giant · #18 01-28-2006, 08:42 PM

I will be doing a pictorial and a DVD on how to remove the axle . We shot 3 projects worth of footage yesterday and I am tired.

MS Fowler · #19 01-29-2006, 07:51 PM

Question, since someone already revived this thread....
There was a suggestion a few posts up about swapping side from left to right to gain additional time before replacement.
I was reading in the FSM ( yeah, I know--I got no life), anyway the FSM mentioned that there were oil slinger grooves machined onto the axles to throw the oil back away from the boot. If you reverse sides, you will have these slinging oil the wrong way.
Now, the FSM was a bit ambiguous--was this a practice for ALL W126 or just early production ones?

jbaj007 · #20 02-08-2006, 01:55 AM

My FSM implies "slinger" threads were up to 1979 on W116 and 1981 on W107 & W123. The old guys who told me about switching sides on the half shafts were not aware of (and wouldn't care anyway)

, I'm sure

. Newer half shafts seem to lack the oil return feed thread. There is a radial sealing ring with alternate feed thread for the new (post '81) shafts. I could find no mention of the W126 specifically. Sooooooo.. who knows? I'll go with the old geezers who told me the trick and report when I do it. May be awhile. I did buy a pneumatic boot installer (old model) on Ebay that I want to try.

#21 02-08-2006, 01:59 AM

I'll ask again

Is it really that hard to tear the axle down and replace the boot the right way?

I know VW axles are not that difficult if you know what you are doing and it doesn't seem like these are too insanely different.

Still a good tutorial for those who don't have the means or time...just wondering how hard it is to do the job right for those of us that have played with axles a time or two

rhodes2010 · #22 02-08-2006, 03:22 AM

Try this link. It says cvboot, but it includes disassembly of the joint.
I am thinking of practicing on some spare axles I have.
It also explains packing with grease, not just oil.

http://www.diymbrepair.com/CVboots/

Diesel Giant · #23 02-09-2006, 06:08 PM

Taking the spider assembly off the shaft is a pain. If the joint is not making any noise, just repack and reboot.

Geodad · #24 02-19-2007, 08:47 PM

How do you attach the gomex clamps? Is there a special tool required?

Diesel Giant · #25 02-21-2007, 07:47 PM

Just use a regular clamp tool available at NAPA.

burford · #26 02-22-2007, 08:10 PM

Last year I read about Astoria flex boots and decided to try them as my boots looked like the ones in Diesel Giant’s pictorial. Found them at Tool Warehouse and ordered them with the install cone. Found out I didn’t have enough strength to push the boot the last little bit over the cone even with the use of lubrication. You have to be really strong to make the cone work. What to do. I called Astoria in NY and told them of my problem.
They gave me the phone number of the local rep. He told me he would loan me the Flexx
Gun. (What a nice person to deal with ) In the case with the Flexx Gun was 4 new boots.
They were a dull finish where mine were shinny black. Both were made by Astoria. I pulled the axels an started to install the shinny boots. The first two split along the seam when I tried to install them so I used the dull black ones from then on and had no problems. About a thousand miles I noticed a clicking coming form the left rear of the car. Since the CV cans are so large on my 84 300SD I decided rightly or wrong one pack of CV joint grease wasn’t enough lubricant so I removed the small clamp and pumped in 3 or 4 oz of ep rear end oil and no more clicking after 3000 miles. I hope my experience helps some one. I feel the Flexx Boots are the answer as they are so easy to install. As a side note HxxxxR Freight has stainless steel zip ties that I have used on CV boots with great success.