help urgent vlve job related - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Pete Burton · #16 01-16-2006, 02:04 PM

Brian is right. I think it takes a 10mm socket.

Brian Carlton · #17 01-16-2006, 02:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pete Burton

Brian is right. I think it takes a 10mm socket.

Pete is right. And, it might even need a 10 mm deep socket. The a/c certainly needs the 10mm deep socket because the adjustment bolt is way too long for a regular socket.

Stevo · #18 01-16-2006, 02:14 PM

" (I think I used a 4 ft long 2X4 for this) "

The 13mm adjustment bolt is right on top of the bracket, there are three other 13mm nuts to losen some need to be held on the other side, then adjust with the adjustment bolt NOT a 2x4

dieseldiehard · #19 01-16-2006, 02:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brian Carlton

Reid, IIRC, the pump has a screw type tensioning adjuster, just like the a/c and the alternator. I did this a couple of months ago, but can't remember exactly where it is located because I'm sitting behind the screen and it's sitting in the very cold garage.

Also, BTW, your PM's are full.

AH yes your right I was thinking of an earlier car. But still don't forget to loosen the adjusting screw
PM's fixed now too BTW

rg2098 · #20 01-16-2006, 02:15 PM

May sound like to much work but we pulled the glow plugs and felt that the engine turned over easy enough to use the P/S bolt.

kerry · #21 01-16-2006, 02:17 PM

For purposes of clarification, I don't believe you are doing a 'valve job'. A valve job involves removing the head and grinding or replacing the valves. I believe you are doing a 'valve adjustment'.

TheDon · #22 01-16-2006, 02:20 PM

yes valve adjustment.. i wasnt concetrating on the wording... OT now my brake light is on when i drive. i know i have a brake pad wear sensor that isnt connected but never noticed the light

Brian Carlton · #23 01-16-2006, 02:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stevo

" (I think I used a 4 ft long 2X4 for this) "

The 13mm adjustment bolt is right on top of the bracket, there are three other 13mm nuts to losen some need to be held on the other side, then adjust with the adjustment bolt NOT a 2x4

Is it a 13mm head for the P/S adjuster, and 10mm for the a/c?? Cannot remember???

anhydrous7 · #24 01-16-2006, 03:34 PM

Quote:

did you have to remove the fan shroud??

No I did not have to remove the fan shroud. I have an 82 300SD (W126 body and 617 engine), so I have enough clearance from under side of the car.

TheDon · #25 01-16-2006, 03:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by anhydrous7

No I did not have to remove the fan shroud. I have an 82 300SD (W126 body and 617 engine), so I have enough clearance from under side of the car.

which i wont have

Stevo · #26 01-16-2006, 03:55 PM

"Is it a 13mm head for the P/S adjuster, and 10mm for the a/c?? Cannot remember???
__________________
Yes, it is on my 240Ds anyway and think its 13mm for all 616 & 617s. Dont remember on the AC, actually up here in the PNW, I dont have a clue about AC

A valve "adjustment " Ahh, OK

Stevo · #27 01-16-2006, 04:30 PM

On this turning of the engine... you may have reasons for doing it a particular way but it sounds to me like you're doing way too much work. Removing the GPs, fan, and fan shroud is fine but..why?
turn the engine c/w, with a socket, on the P/S bolt while pulling up or pushing down (from the outside) on the belt. It just makes the job allot easier. As someone else mentioned "you don't want the P/S pump belt any tighter than necessary or you'll have a leaky pump seal." The only possible draw back that I know of, is you may have a hard time removing the P/S bolt, unless you have an impact wrench. I know this has been hashed over before but I have never not been able to turn a 616 or 617 this way.

whunter · #28 01-16-2006, 04:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TheDon

i will do a valve job myself.. i just need to tighten the belt.. i was thinking of bumping it over before whunter suggested but i feared it would start and i wouldn't be able to shut it off... i started and drove the car around and made sure it shut off .. which it does.. now.. how do i tighten the power steering belt..

Relax, there is no reason for concern.
With key off = full vacuum is applied to the injection pump vacuum shutoff valve = every time you bump the engine more vacuum is generated = unless your vacuum shutoff valve is bad, the engine can NOT start.

Pete Burton · #29 01-16-2006, 04:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stevo

On this turning of the engine... you may have reasons for doing it a particular way but it sounds to me like you're doing way too much work. Removing the GPs, fan, and fan shroud is fine but..why?
turn the engine c/w, with a socket, on the P/S bolt while pulling up or pushing down (from the outside) on the belt. It just makes the job allot easier. As someone else mentioned "you don't want the P/S pump belt any tighter than necessary or you'll have a leaky pump seal." The only possible draw back that I know of, is you may have a hard time removing the P/S bolt, unless you have an impact wrench. I know this has been hashed over before but I have never not been able to turn a 616 or 617 this way.

yeah, I have to agree. I've been using that P/S nut AND applying some torque by hand on the belt. Long ago I marked the nut to the pulley and so far I have not tightened the nut anymore at all. Having one hand on the belt makes it very easy to put the cam exactly where you want it.

rwthomas1 · #30 01-16-2006, 08:54 PM

I dunno why this is such a big deal. A deep 27mm socket on a 1/2" ratchet will slip into the crank pulley with the radiator shroud in place and allow you to turn the engine easily. I have a 300D and it is quite simple and there is enough room even without the front jacked up. RT