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  #1  
Old 01-16-2006, 07:51 PM
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Too slow from a standstill 300SD

OK I know that these cars are not know for their get up and go but ours seems to take forever to get going from a standstill even when it's warm.

I still need to do a valve and diesel purge and how to see some improvements there. I replaced the glow plugs and relay and now it starts right away adn warms up a little faster.

If I don't see improvements after the purge and valve adjustment what else??

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  #2  
Old 01-16-2006, 07:55 PM
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Try adjusting the ALDA or swapping it with one from a junkyard car. I have had good luck changing them out on the SD until I found a non-molested one that provided the best performance. I have driven some SD's too though that would blow my doors off but they smoked pretty good on acceleration.
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  #3  
Old 01-16-2006, 07:59 PM
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Clean out the banjo bolt on the back of the intake manifold. It controls the ALDA system.....a fuel enrichment system (think accelerator pump on a carburetor on a gas engine) that allows for more fuel when boost comes on. If it is plugged, cleaning it will allow as much improvement as the valve adjustment and the purge both. Air up your tires to proper pressure. Just a little down can sap the mighty 124 horse diesel you've chosen. You might try and pull a boost reading. Bet you are not much over 7 to 8 pounds. You can remedy this by adjusting boost on the supercharger waste gate or you can put an adjustment valve in the boost line that runs to the waste gate. If you can get up to 12 to 13 pounds of boost, that will surely help.

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  #4  
Old 01-16-2006, 08:04 PM
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Hmm.. that's all good stuff.. how do I do a boost reading?

This car smoked alot before on start up but the new glow plugs remedied that.
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  #5  
Old 01-17-2006, 10:54 AM
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You get a guage that measures psi of boost and T it into the alda line for instance. Run the guage line into the passenger compartment with the guage in view of the driver or co-pilot and drive the darn thing. Boost should come on about 2000 rpm. Max boost setting is up to about 13 pounds. If your set-up is only pulling 7 to 8 pounds, then you may up the boost via re-setting the stock waste gate on the turbo, or get an accessory manual valve to put into the boost line that goes to the stock waste gate. There are various threads in the forum on where it goes and how to adjust. My stock waste gate was not adjustable due to my inability to get the darn thing apart, so I got a manual valve of of e-bay for not much expense. I put mine in the boost line and adjusted the max boost to about 12 pounds. It really wakes ol SPARKY up. That plus adjusting the alda to max out it's fuel enrichment really helped out. Good luck and have fun.

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  #6  
Old 01-17-2006, 11:00 AM
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Oh, yeah. Thought of another thing. Make sure your car is starting off in low gear. They idle at a light or stop in second, then shift into low when you briskly accelerate. If you are not getting low gear (count gears and shifts) then you will suffer slow acceleration times. If not getting low gear, try stomping it harder off the line. If you still don't get low gear, you have some adjusting to do on linkage/transmission/etc.

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  #7  
Old 01-17-2006, 11:35 AM
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one thing I didn't see mentioned. Change the fuel filter and the air filter. If it is starving and can't breath your not going anywhere very quickly.
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  #8  
Old 01-17-2006, 12:29 PM
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One dumb little thing I have found. Sometimes the throttle linkage comes a bit loose and you aren't really wide open on the IP. With an assistant mashing the pedal, check that you are going full range on the pumps lever. I have actually had the rod vibrate apart one time while driving. Had to coast to side of road at idle. (which thankfully maintained power steering and brakes!) Two minutes of putting it back together and I was back on my way.
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  #9  
Old 01-17-2006, 01:35 PM
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That little bamjo bolt

My 300 D Tirbo recently lost her starch. 15 second times were all of a sudden at 48 and 50 MPH. Then I thought, you know I just don't hear that turbo whine like I used to. First, yesterday I replaced both fuel filters.
Slight improvement. Well, I thought, I might better just check that banjo bolt behind the intake manifold to the boost control and alda too I think. Well, I reached in behind the manifold to put a socket on that 13mm banjo bolt and the plastic tube dropped off. From too many years sitting and riding in that hot spot and it had undoubtedly broken off a couple of weeks ago, but was still hanging by a thread. Fortunately I had a very supple one in my box from my parts car. I don't know if it is possible to slip that old hose, even after cutting off 4 or 5 inches back on to that barbed banjo. Checked her out and it did 0/62 in 15 seconds, without the a/c on and I am very happy.
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  #10  
Old 01-17-2006, 02:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by junqueyardjim
I don't know if it is possible to slip that old hose, even after cutting off 4 or 5 inches back on to that barbed banjo.
I doubt it. You would need a slightly larger and softer tube with a suitable clamp. The dealer sells the banjo fitting and the tube as a one piece unit. The tube on the SD fractured instantly when trying to remove it.
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  #11  
Old 01-17-2006, 03:16 PM
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Since this it the only SD I've driven, should you notice anything SOP when the boost comes on?

I'm used to my Dmax and prior Cummins, which there is no doubt when boost builds.

She seems to accelerate fine, so I've been paying attention to other items like general maintenance stuff rather than tweaking power.
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  #12  
Old 01-17-2006, 03:21 PM
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Adjusting the Alda and cleaning out the clear banjo bolt lines made a HUGE difference for me... On the lines and banjo bolt, I removed them and just sprayed carb cleaner in them and blasted them with compressed air till they were clean as a whistle an easy 5min job (they had been totally blocked).
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  #13  
Old 01-17-2006, 03:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zackb911
Adjusting the Alda and cleaning out the clear banjo bolt lines made a HUGE difference for me... On the lines and banjo bolt, I removed them and just sprayed carb cleaner in them and blasted them with compressed air till they were clean as a whistle an easy 5min job (they had been totally blocked).
What did you use on the inside B Bolt on the SDL to make it a 5 minute job?
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  #14  
Old 01-17-2006, 03:58 PM
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Here's a good thread on wastegate adjustment.

Turbocharger Wastegate Adjustment:

Interesting reading:

No Turbo Boost Pressure

danny
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  #15  
Old 01-17-2006, 04:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dannym
Here's a good thread on wastegate adjustment.

Turbocharger Wastegate Adjustment:

Interesting reading:

No Turbo Boost Pressure

danny
Don't even think of doing that without a boost guage.......just a word of warning...

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