w124 SLS valve on w123 wagon? - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

deezulmark · #16 05-17-2008, 10:29 PM

Thanks for the reply.

All the linkage stuff looks pretty good at first glance. Bypassing all the linkage and moving the valve by hand, it takes a lot of throw before it triggers to raise the car. That's why I'm suspicous of the valve itself. Does anybody know how far the lever on the valve has to move before it starts raising the car? The valve works, just not soon enough. Is that typical for a worn valve?

Quote:

Originally Posted by mobetta

dont mess w/ the linkage just yet- it should be in spec unless someone already tinkered w/ it, or something is bent.

I had an issue w/ the arm where it connects to the valve. the arm was loose, so sometimes my ass end would raise way up there. I got under and tightened this up, and it is now fine. if you look at it, you will see where I mean.

also- how are the links on each wheel which connect the sway bar to the trailing arm?

Bio300TDTdriver · #17 05-17-2008, 11:10 PM

OK, more information = different answer. If you need to move the lever on the valve more than a small amount, than it may need to be rebuilt. That was the problem with mine and I replaced it. The valve on the 123 can be rebuilt the 124 cannot, so says MB. I have not had time to take my old valve apart yet to see if I can repair it.

deezulmark · #18 05-20-2008, 07:00 PM

I got under there again and noticed that with no load the arm on the valve was actually quite a bit below center, contrary to what I reported before. There was about 1/2" of thread available in the connecting rod and I ended up turning it all the way in. Now the arm is right about center. I also moved the rod-end to the other hole which is closer to the pivot, so would get more angular change with the same amount of up motion.

This afternoon at work, I was chatting with two friends outside nearby my car and seized the opportunity. They are both full sized people, at least 400 pounds total. Opened the tailgate and had them sit on the backend. Only toes on the ground so they could easily sense when it lifted. Started the engine and looked back and could see it lift up. In fact it seemed like maybe it went too high! So I got under there when I got home and moved the rod-end back to the other hole on the lever. The lever still is sitting about centered. Will try another test when I get the chance, but looks like I'm on the right track for now. The alternate hole made it about 1/3 more sensitive as far as motion to trigger it. Hopefully it's still sensitive enough back in the regular hole.

I'd still like to see some height data on how far you should have to load down the back end before it kicks in, but for now seems like it's working somewhat reasonably. I don't think they had it squatted as far today as the tubs of dirt I carried the other day and it didn't lift then.

dieseldiehard · #19 05-20-2008, 07:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bio300TDTdriver

OK, more information = different answer. If you need to move the lever on the valve more than a small amount, than it may need to be rebuilt. That was the problem with mine and I replaced it. The valve on the 123 can be rebuilt the 124 cannot, so says MB. I have not had time to take my old valve apart yet to see if I can repair it.

Roger that. The lever doesn't have to move very far to actuate pressure.
Another test is to see if the back end drops down at all overnight. With no extra load, it should sit where it was when the engine was shut off even a week later.
Internally leaking seals will cause it to drop down in just a few hours.
I have another 123 SLS valve rebuild kit, in case someone needs one send me a PM but be aware they are around $80. In the MB box.

swogee · #20 07-23-2008, 02:29 PM

Along the lines of this post, I was wondering if anyone has a picture of the 123 320 02 58 SLS valve?

I have a valve that I purchased that came in a Pierburg box with the number "123 320 02 58" on the outside, but it appears to be squarish in appearance. (As mentioned in the beginning of this thread for the 123 320 01 58 valve.) In checking the Mercedes EPC, the SLS valve for my 1987 300TDT is the 123 320 02 58 and it appears to have been superceded a few times; the current valve is 202 320 02 58.

I also looked at the SLS valve that is currently in my 1987 300TDT and it has the rounded appearance and it looks different than the SLS valve that I purchased. I am try to determine if the valve I purchased truly is a 123 320 02 58, and if it will work on my 1987 300TDT.

Thanks in advance.

-Steve

Bio300TDTdriver · #21 07-24-2008, 01:13 AM

This is the one I took of my '87 300TD earlier this year.

swogee · #22 07-24-2008, 02:10 AM

Bio300TDTdriver,

Thanks for the pictures. They were very enlightening. It looks like I actually have a valve for a W123 wagon. Apparently the box was mislabeled with the part number 123 320 02 58.

I have attached a picture of what the valve I have looks like. (My valve is identical except for blue thread locker instead of yellow as shown in the picture.) Mine is made by Pierburg. The part number for the valve I have is actually 123 320 01 58. As I suspected I have the wrong valve for my W124 wagon. Know anyone who wants a new W123 SLS valve? The new W124 valves seem to run close to $400 these days.

Oh well. Thanks again for the pictures.

-Steve