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  #1  
Old 05-02-2006, 11:03 PM
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How much to replace rear window seal - '78 300D

I have ordered a rear window seal (Lemfoerder) - water leaking into the rear speaker wells. 2 questions: I found a shop in OKC to pull the glass and replace the seal (after calling around a few places these folks came recommended for old mercedes). They want $125 - which I thought was high - what do you guys think?

Secondly, I have read most of the posts regarding this, but can I do it myself? One guy, who does it for a living, didn't want to try it - he was afraid of ruining the aluminum trim.

Any advice?

ryan
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  #2  
Old 05-02-2006, 11:13 PM
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That sounds dam cheap, I have had a seal in my garage for about 2 years, I cant find anybody to do it less than 350.00 they told me the rear glass is about a 1000 to replace?
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  #3  
Old 05-02-2006, 11:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lakerat
That sounds dam cheap, I have had a seal in my garage for about 2 years, I cant find anybody to do it less than 350.00 they told me the rear glass is about a 1000 to replace?
The rear glass is about 50 bucks to replace... if you go to a salvage yard a get a used one.

Mike
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  #4  
Old 05-03-2006, 01:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rgnprof
They want $125 - which I thought was high - what do you guys think?

Secondly, I have read most of the posts regarding this, but can I do it myself? One guy, who does it for a living, didn't want to try it - he was afraid of ruining the aluminum trim..........ryan
If I recall, someone stated that the trim is removed by cutting the old seal. Don't take my word on this as I have never done it. There should be something in a search or maybe PM someone who has done the DIY.

As competitive as gas places are nowadays, that figure might not be too far off.
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  #5  
Old 05-03-2006, 01:44 AM
123c
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lakerat
That sounds dam cheap, I have had a seal in my garage for about 2 years, I cant find anybody to do it less than 350.00 they told me the rear glass is about a 1000 to replace?
That's for the rear glass on the 123 coupes, glass for the sedans will be much cheaper.
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  #6  
Old 05-03-2006, 03:15 AM
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1st: Pay the $125 if you do not have the time and place to do the work.

2nd: It can be done at home. It takes time and a safe place to take out
the window, clean out the area where the old seal was.

I did this job just a few weeks ago myself, never did it before. It is fully
documented here on the board.

Folks do recommend that if the glass breaks by the installer then have a plan
for getting the replacement and an agreement on who pays for it.
Plenty of spare rear glass should be available.

The trim is in the rubber seal until the window comes out.
The trim is inserted into the new rubber seal before installing window.
(pull window, remove trim, remove seal, install new seal on glass, install trim into rubber seal, install glass)
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  #7  
Old 05-03-2006, 05:14 AM
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i would clean it and caulk with a small bead of black silicone and send the gasket back or keep it in reserve.

just a few days ago caulked my leaking back glass on my 84 sec. it had a new gasket professionally installed two years ago. i told them to caulk with silicone when they installed it but i bet they didnt.

tom w
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  #8  
Old 05-03-2006, 10:23 AM
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The quoted price does not seem unreasonable at all.

Do we recommend the Lemforder replacement seal or a dealer MB seal?

Ken300D

P.S. Those seals get so old that they often develop splits. I've even heard of them drying up so much the back glass rattles. At this point, unless the car is a bomb, I think it's time to go for a replacement instead of caulking. Just an opinion.
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  #9  
Old 05-03-2006, 10:32 AM
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I was warned by a friend not to use silicone to seal a window but use propor eurethane window sealant. I don't know why that is I will ask him when I see him again. You can get the right stuff at napa.
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  #10  
Old 05-03-2006, 11:29 AM
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I was able to find prices as low as $75 to change the seal. However (1) no guarantee that the glass will not be broken (2) what if there is rust that needs to be treated in the channel.

For these reasons, I have sucessfully done 2 rear windows and a windshield myself (well- family project), as well as 2 Triumphs and a VW.

And I use only the cheapest non-OEM seals. No problems yet. I don't know where that OEM seal bunk started- probably with the glass pros who would rather pay (or have YOU pay) more to save 15 minutes on the job and go on to rob somebody else. The OEM seals MAY fit a bit better in the top corners, but that's not where the water comes in.

Don't use silicone on the glass to metal seal (OK on glass to rubber seal , though) It contains acetic acid which is not metal-friendly

Rick
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  #11  
Old 05-03-2006, 11:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OMEGAMAN
I was warned by a friend not to use silicone to seal a window but use propor eurethane window sealant. I don't know why that is I will ask him when I see him again. You can get the right stuff at napa.
Agreed, I have seen several mentions of not using the silicone on painted surfaces as it attacks the paint and creates a possibility for rust in an area already susceptible.

Rhodes,
I haven't gone back and read your post recently. But don't you need to cut the old seal to enable you to pull the glass?
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  #12  
Old 05-03-2006, 12:31 PM
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Cutting the seal from the inside first makes removing the glass pretty easy. I used the OEM seal ($78) and MB sealant ($19), and I would recommend both (and I'm a cheap SOB)
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  #13  
Old 05-03-2006, 12:40 PM
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Pete-
I have a big family of needy (3rd world) cars so I cheap out on rubber. I also use 3M bedding compound. Lucky so far, I guess.

Is there anyone out there who has used BOTH OEM and generic rubber?

Rick
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  #14  
Old 05-03-2006, 01:15 PM
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I haven't decided yet if I am going to try this myself or not...

But, I can't tell what brand is OEM for sure. Lemfoerder is listed as OEM in several places and it is a little more expensive than some other brands I have seen (APA, etc), but I didn't get it at the dealer.

ryan
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  #15  
Old 05-03-2006, 03:15 PM
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rgnprof-

If this is your one and only attempt, I'd say let the "pros" do it. The rear glass is scary to me because it seems very thin and curved. The second one I did was a breeze. They get easier every time (knocks wood).

If you do decide to do it, be sure to take the opportunity to stretch the gasket as evenly as possible around the glass as you go. Go back and pull more and tape it every few inched with duct tape. It gets frightening when you get to the final corner and you have to stretch and pull the gasket over the corner to finish. Start out with a warm gasket that has been allowed to assume the shape of the glass. And , of course read the manual and anything pertinent here.

Rick
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