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#1
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Which window regulator is better??
http://catalog.eautopartscatalog.com/mercedesshop/sophio/quote.jsp?clientid=catalog.mercedesshop&cookieid=1UO15Z3SZ1V9165FYH&baseurl=http://catalog.peachparts.com/&partner=mercedesshop&year=1987&product=O3040-16665&application=000022667
http://catalog.eautopartscatalog.com/mercedesshop/sophio/quote.jsp?clientid=catalog.mercedesshop&cookieid=1UO15Z3SZ1V9165FYH&baseurl=http://catalog.peachparts.com/&partner=mercedesshop&year=1987&product=O3040-74255&application=000370345 Which one would be better for a 1987, W126.125? My front window is clunking again, if it doesn't break before the car goes into storage I'll swap it out this winter. Already broke once, replaced it with one from the 420SEL's door, now its clunking again, used one lasted less then a year. I don't want to mess with it again, espcialy since this is the drivers window, it gets the most use.
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1999 SL500 1969 280SE 2023 Ram 1500 2007 Tiara 3200 |
#2
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Brose is what's in most of the cars. What exactly is wrong with your regulator?
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I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look. '85 300SD 245k '87 300SDL 251k '90 300SEL 326k Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford. Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.[/IMG] |
#3
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Have to learn to get your finger off that "up" button about 1 millisecond before the window runs out of travel........otherwise........you'll be buying another one next year.
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#4
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Yep, but she clunks anyway. You would think the windows would be smart enough to not stress the regulator so.
I suspect one of the joints is becoming lose. I'll investigate when it breaks, seems like I fix one window a year. I should just do what I did when the regulator on the rear window of the SD blew apart. I pulled off the door panal and wedged a large chunk of wood under the window. Problem fixed, well unless you want to roll the window down!
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1999 SL500 1969 280SE 2023 Ram 1500 2007 Tiara 3200 |
#5
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Quote:
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have no worries.....President Obama swears "If you like your gun, you can keep it |
#6
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Mine all seem to be working ok so far....(0 problems in over 3 years of having the car! Knock on trim wood... ) On the '83 the passenger front motor had to be replaced, it was DOA when we got the car, motor was coroded and toasted, but the regulator was brand new! Then the rear driver window blew out its little nylon slider, had it replaced and its been fine since.
My passenger rear one does go "skip" breifly on its way down, but its always done that and it hasn't gotten worse. My drivers one has started to make a random "chink" noise when it goes up, but it still goes smoothly and hasn't gone critical yet. I am hoping it makes it to winter so I can leave it alone till spring.
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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life- '15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800) '17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k) '09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k) '13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k) '01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km) '16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k) |
#7
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Quote:
You would think the driver would be smart enough...... |
#8
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Quote:
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have no worries.....President Obama swears "If you like your gun, you can keep it |
#9
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Quote:
there is a tiny temp switch inside the motor to prevent too much damage if held down. not saying it wont do damage by holding it down.
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have no worries.....President Obama swears "If you like your gun, you can keep it |
#10
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My Drivers front Reg in my SD is currently broker, I had a busted check link that would catch the window everytime it'd go down, eventually putting enough fatigue on the slider pivot tht the whole pivot broke off, I repaired it with some glue (special 3M glue) and it was fine for a while, but then it snapped again not too long ago. thankfully it broke on it's way up and didn't give the arm a chance to over center and reverse itself..when it does that, it will want to go down no matter what direction your pressing.....
and my rear drivers reg is skipping, but that might just need the rubber mallet treatment again
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RIP: 80 300SD RIP: 79 450SEL 2002 E430 4matic (212,000km) 2002 ML500 'sport' ____________________________ FACEBOOK: PANZER450 |
#11
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Quote:
They're pretty heavily built motors though, they'd need to be held in the stall position for probably 10+ seconds to do permenant damage.
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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life- '15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800) '17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k) '09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k) '13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k) '01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km) '16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k) |
#12
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Hand crank.
Did gray-market cars have crank windows? You 126 folks probably wouldn't be interested in anything manual, though, huh?
Jay.
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On the road, currently: '83 300D (German spec.) 168k mi. - - Wolfgang (tucked snugly away for the winter!) '87 300D 375k mi. - finally went over to "The Dark Side" '87 300TD 225k mi. Cannondale 66cm CAAD5 w/Campy/Jamis Aurora Hujsak Custom Fixie/Landshark Track Shark Custom/Ahearne Custom 29'er |
#13
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..........yeah, reaching over your shoulder to lower the LR window would be a PITA at 75 mph........
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#14
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It isn't about which one is better. It is about which one is in your car. They are not interchangeable. If you have Brose you must use Brose. If you have Reitter you must use Reitter. Questions like this are why all of us on line vendors have way too many returns.
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Rusty Cullens BuyMBparts, Inc. 1-800-741-5252 |
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