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#16
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#17
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I have done this twice on a 601. Used an impact wrench with a 27 mm to take off the main bolt (and to put it back on). Then, you can take out some of the allen bolts so as to take off part of the front pulley. Finally, you can use a puller to remove it. It is not very hard. You do not need any special tools. The only problem is that on a 603 there may not be enough room for the impact wrench. on the 601 190's there is tons of room up front.
An impact wrench can tighten it enough without the locking tool. I did this in 1994 and then again in 2004. About 200kmi inbetween.
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Jovan '84 (11/83) 190D 2.2 5-Speed; Silver/Blue; Motor No. 00354, 402k mi (340+kmi mine) '89 Porsche 911 Turbo Coupe; Black/Black; 53kmi '05 BMW 530i 6-Speed; 302kmi '19 Range Rover; 30kmi |
#18
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Excellent! I plan within about 7-10 days, same time I reseal my IP
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I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look. '85 300SD 245k '87 300SDL 251k '90 300SEL 326k Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford. Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.[/IMG] |
#19
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it's been a while but
Hi, I am getting ready to pull that job, do I need any other parts other than the front crankshaft seal on a 603 engine?
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#20
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BTW - be VERY VERY careful when re-installing the hub on the crankshaft. The woodruff key likes to not slide into the hub, and it pushes back against the crankshaft, preventing the hub from seating properly. When you start to tighten the screw for the hub, just turn it 2-3 turns then remove, and inspect the keyway with a flashlight & mirror. If the key is not still clearly in place, remove the hub, re-seat the key, and try again. Repeat as necessary. Take careful note of how far the hub seats against the engine (note space between hub and timing cover / seal) BEFORE you remove it, make sure when it's re-installed that it's in the EXACT same position. If it's 1/8" or more too far out, the key is in the way. If you screw up and drop the key into the crankcase, you'll have to pull the side oil sump off to retreive it. |
#21
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Isn't there a 'repair size' seal? I recall a choice of part numbers. Any thoughts on checking and possibly polishing the hub shaft? Sixto 87 300D |
#22
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Yes - good point. I think that only applies to the 3.5's though (and OM606).
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If the hub is not badly scored, it appears to still seal ok when left alone, at least when using the new OE seal that I referenced earlier. I've done this on four different OM60x engines with no leaks thus far, without resurfacing the hub. On two of the four, I had the Woodruff key push out of place, causing a great increase in heart rate and blood pressure until it was safely retrieved. Now I'm paranoid about that darn key! |
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