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  #1  
Old 10-17-2006, 07:22 PM
Hit Man X's Avatar
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Thumbs up 603 front main seal...

Seems like a VERY straight forward job here, my only question is do I need the MB front seal installer tool or not?
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'85 300SD 245k
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  #2  
Old 10-17-2006, 07:45 PM
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Seems like the right size socket will do the trick.

Please find out before I replace the one in the block you sent me

Sixto
93 300SD
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  #3  
Old 10-17-2006, 08:31 PM
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me too mine leaves its mark in every parking spot so I'm going to have to do it soon.
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1980 500SE/AMG Euro
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1986 190E 2.3
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past: 1969 280SE 4.5 | 1978 240D | 1978 300D | 1981 300SD | 1981 300SD | 1982 300CD | 1983 300CD | 1983 300SD | 1983 380SEC | 1984 300D | 1984 300D | 1984 300TD | 1984 500SEL | 1984 300SD | 1985 300D | 1986 300E | 1986 560SEL | 1986 560SEL/Carat | 1987 560SEC | 1991 300D 2.5 | 2006 R350
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  #4  
Old 10-17-2006, 09:17 PM
Hit Man X's Avatar
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Thumbs up

LOL, I have the part already... cost a whole $6. I'll take it with to Sears next week when I go peep for a socket to drive it home with. I'll toss it in the rental program deal.

When I checked out those PDFs... seems like I need some other odd tool to remove the balancer or am I seeing things?



http://mercedes.braingears.com/126_DISC1/program/Engine/602_603/03-324.pdf

http://mercedes.braingears.com/126_DISC1/program/Engine/602_603/03-341.pdf
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I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look.

'85 300SD 245k
'87 300SDL 251k
'90 300SEL 326k

Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford.

Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.
[/IMG]
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  #5  
Old 10-18-2006, 01:28 AM
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Here's my 2 cents on the job.

I HAVE NOT done a 603 front crank seal, But I have done the 617 and they seem about the same.

I did not have the special tool 103 589 00 33 00. To pull the hub. I used a generic run of the mill puller that I got at Harbor Freight.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=37824

I did buy the seal press, tool # 601 589 03 14 00, only for a 617. I do think a proper sized deep socket will work.

However you will need the fly wheel stop to tighten the front crank main bolt to 320NM of torque. Tool # 601 589 00 33 00. The 617 allows you to place a large bolt or rod in the balancers way and tighten against that. I don't see that the 603 will allow it. Not completely sure about this though.

Mark you balancer before removing, not to align it within 1-2 degrees, but so you know that it will not be 180 degrees out when installed. The small cylinders will align it correctly, I pounded them in after aligning the balancer as accurately as I could.

Here was my post on the 617 job.

Replacing the 300TD front crankshaft seal and other front of block oil leaks

Dave
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Last edited by dmorrison; 10-18-2006 at 05:50 AM.
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  #6  
Old 10-18-2006, 02:18 AM
Hit Man X's Avatar
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Thumbs up

How much did the seal press run ya?

I figured I would crawl under the car and stick a bar between the flexplate and the block, maybe just unbolt the starter (it's easy on 603s). Worst case, I'll buy the flexplate jammer.

The SD needs it too, but not NEARLY as bad as the SDL. It leaks sooooooo much.
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I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look.

'85 300SD 245k
'87 300SDL 251k
'90 300SEL 326k

Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford.

Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.
[/IMG]
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  #7  
Old 10-30-2006, 03:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dmorrison View Post
However you will need the fly wheel stop to tighten the front crank main bolt to 320NM of torque. Tool # 601 589 00 33 00. The 617 allows you to place a large bolt or rod in the balancers way and tighten against that. I don't see that the 603 will allow it. Not completely sure about this though.
I wouldn't try this without the flywheel lock tool. Also you'll need to buy or borrow a torque wrench capable of reaching 320Nm... this is a LOT of torque, and not easy to apply with the car just lifted on a hydraulic jack. BT, DT.

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