Photo of steering box adjustment nut? - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

t walgamuth · #16 10-19-2006, 11:34 PM

if you have to have it to the left of center to go straight and switching the tires about doesnt do the trick then you should suspect worn parts.

tom w

lutzTD · #17 10-20-2006, 07:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dannym

Why would you need an article? Unlock locknut. Turn adjustment bolt 1/4 turn. Lock down locknut. Start vehicle, turn wheel to both stops then back to center and shut down. Check slop.
If you went the wrong way turn adjustment bolt 1/2 turn the other way.
Repeat until it's right.

http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/W123SteeringCoupling

Danny

why are you asking why? as was said in a later post I thought maybe you can do damage if over tightened or whatever. I was looking for a torque or a step by step. I want to do it right the first time. this is my first Mercedes, these things may seem intuitively obvious to some but I have seen guys ruin mustang steering boxes by doing it wrong. I imagine a ruined mercedes box is not as cheap a fix as a correctly adjusted one.

beaulieub · #18 10-20-2006, 03:55 PM

Already did replace the damper and it did make for a smoother turning of the wheel but still had the slop. Also had the undercarriage looked at for bad ball joints, etc. Then I decided to try the box adjustment. Raining today but hopefully this weekend I'll turn it back a little (clockwise) to hoefully let it get back to center.

Thanks again all!

Bert

EuroRash · #19 07-23-2012, 01:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by beaulieub

Already did replace the damper and it did make for a smoother turning of the wheel but still had the slop. Also had the undercarriage looked at for bad ball joints, etc. Then I decided to try the box adjustment. Raining today but hopefully this weekend I'll turn it back a little (clockwise) to hoefully let it get back to center.

Thanks again all!

Bert

After almost 6 years, is it still raining or did you get some results from adjusting the steering box?

supercub · #20 07-23-2012, 09:02 AM

I adjusted mine and the slack returned. I know- CCW to tighten. I left a tiny bit of slack to be safe. I read in some other post about a large nut on the end of the box that has to be tightened to do it right. It is hard to see back there, but does anyone have knowledge about this adjustment? I have no play anywhere else but the box. My wheel is off center a little and I want to replace the rod end tubes, tires, an get it aligned.

martureo · #21 07-23-2012, 09:18 AM

No, absolutely not correct. Unless you have the box off the car and the pitman arm removed any further adjustment is going to be inaccurate and blind.

With the box on the car the adjustment screw is the ONLY way to remove slack.

That "big nut" (sheet metal) on one end adjusts the torsional friction of the input shaft. If you are even able to adjust that on the car (I applaud you if you could even try) the complexity and precision required is impossible to get in situ. Most of the box needs to be diassembled to adjust that nut properly.

Source: I currently reseal and adjust boxes.

EuroRash · #22 07-23-2012, 11:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by supercub

I adjusted mine and the slack returned. I know- CCW to tighten. I left a tiny bit of slack to be safe. I read in some other post about a large nut on the end of the box that has to be tightened to do it right. It is hard to see back there, but does anyone have knowledge about this adjustment? I have no play anywhere else but the box. My wheel is off center a little and I want to replace the rod end tubes, tires, an get it aligned.

Quote:

Originally Posted by martureo

No, absolutely not correct. Unless you have the box off the car and the pitman arm removed any further adjustment is going to be inaccurate and blind.

With the box on the car the adjustment screw is the ONLY way to remove slack.

That "big nut" (sheet metal) on one end adjusts the torsional friction of the input shaft. If you are even able to adjust that on the car (I applaud you if you could even try) the complexity and precision required is impossible to get in situ. Most of the box needs to be diassembled to adjust that nut properly.

Source: I currently reseal and adjust boxes.

Thanks for the info. I'll have to inspect further on the other components, like ball joints and tie rods, etc...

I know the OP had a W116, mines a W124 chassis and 4MATIC version. Additionally all my previous W124s, W201, and W202 didn't have alignment issues (the C280 pulled slightly) but it had nothing to do with the steering box.
This is my first 4MATIC version W124, so I'm considering other possibilities since there's additional hardware in the mix on the front end.

W116 6.9 in the movie Ronin

eatont9999 · #23 07-25-2012, 06:07 PM

I have a bit of play in my steering wheel when the engine is off. It seems to be much less when the car is running and the steering box is pressurized. The play comes from the steering box because I can see the steering wheel shaft turn all the way down to the steering box. The tie rods barely move when I float the steering wheel from side to side. I'm not putting much pressure on it to turn it or anything. Would the adjustment mentioned in this thread relive the play in my steering box or is it only applicable if the box is under line pressure?

EuroRash · #24 07-25-2012, 06:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by eatont9999

I have a bit of play in my steering wheel when the engine is off. It seems to be much less when the car is running and the steering box is pressurized. The play comes from the steering box because I can see the steering wheel shaft turn all the way down to the steering box. The tie rods barely move when I float the steering wheel from side to side. I'm not putting much pressure on it to turn it or anything. Would the adjustment mentioned in this thread relive the play in my steering box or is it only applicable if the box is under line pressure?

Have you checked your upper control arms for bushings or ball joint failures?

eatont9999 · #25 07-26-2012, 11:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by EuroRash

Have you checked your upper control arms for bushings or ball joint failures?

Well, if that could cause the play in the wheel, then I can probably rule out the steering box. Anything I have not replaced already, needs to be. That means from ball joints to bearings to UCA. The parts are not ready to blow up or anything but the rest of the front end is slated to be replaced in the next year. The tie rods that I already replaced were the worst worn components of all aside from the guide rod which I am planning on doing soon. It is loose in the bearing bracket and clunks and thunks when I brake or go over gravel.

cho · #26 08-21-2012, 02:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by EuroRash

After almost 6 years, is it still raining or did you get some results from adjusting the steering box?

great one mate

.