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  #1  
Old 10-18-2006, 10:44 AM
beaulieub's Avatar
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Photo of steering box adjustment nut?

Hi Guys,

Trying to remove 3+" of slop in the steering wheel of my W116 '80 300SD. I've search the archives and read many posts but don't see the hex head adjustment nut on the top of my steering box. So I tried to search the gallery hopefully looking for a picture someone might have posted. No luck searching. Is it possible to search ONLY photos for a certain title word? Can someone give me EXACT location of the steering box adjustment in my car?

Thanks

Bert - NH
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1990 350SDL 202k miles (3L engine from an 87 300D)Black/Grey leather
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  #2  
Old 10-18-2006, 11:44 AM
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looking at the top of the box it should be right there- 19mm locknut and 6mm allen adjustment screw.
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  #3  
Old 10-18-2006, 12:02 PM
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If you have 3+ inches of slop you have more problems than just a steering box adjustment.
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Photo of steering box adjustment nut?-steering.jpg  
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  #4  
Old 10-18-2006, 12:11 PM
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Make very sure that the rest of your front end is in good condition/slop free before you adjust the box. That should the be the LAST thing you adjust to tighten things up.
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  #5  
Old 10-18-2006, 09:22 PM
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GOT IT! Thanks guys. I did the adjustment and it made a HUGE difference.
Thanks for your help.

Bert - NH
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1979 300SD 83k miles Astro Silver Metallic/Black leather #3447
1990 350SDL 202k miles (3L engine from an 87 300D)Black/Grey leather
2006 Pleasure-Way Class B MoHo (Sprinter chassis) 134k miles
2005 E320CDI 270k (car is sooo fast - I can't believe it's a diesel!!!)
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  #6  
Old 10-18-2006, 09:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beaulieub View Post
GOT IT! Thanks guys. I did the adjustment and it made a HUGE difference.
Thanks for your help.

Bert - NH

do you have a how to article? I have about an inch of slop that is annoying me on the highway. everything underneath is tight.
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  #7  
Old 07-23-2012, 09:02 AM
1978 300D, Georga car
 
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I adjusted mine and the slack returned. I know- CCW to tighten. I left a tiny bit of slack to be safe. I read in some other post about a large nut on the end of the box that has to be tightened to do it right. It is hard to see back there, but does anyone have knowledge about this adjustment? I have no play anywhere else but the box. My wheel is off center a little and I want to replace the rod end tubes, tires, an get it aligned.
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  #8  
Old 07-23-2012, 09:18 AM
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No, absolutely not correct. Unless you have the box off the car and the pitman arm removed any further adjustment is going to be inaccurate and blind.

With the box on the car the adjustment screw is the ONLY way to remove slack.

That "big nut" (sheet metal) on one end adjusts the torsional friction of the input shaft. If you are even able to adjust that on the car (I applaud you if you could even try) the complexity and precision required is impossible to get in situ. Most of the box needs to be diassembled to adjust that nut properly.

Source: I currently reseal and adjust boxes.
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  #9  
Old 07-23-2012, 11:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by supercub View Post
I adjusted mine and the slack returned. I know- CCW to tighten. I left a tiny bit of slack to be safe. I read in some other post about a large nut on the end of the box that has to be tightened to do it right. It is hard to see back there, but does anyone have knowledge about this adjustment? I have no play anywhere else but the box. My wheel is off center a little and I want to replace the rod end tubes, tires, an get it aligned.
Quote:
Originally Posted by martureo View Post
No, absolutely not correct. Unless you have the box off the car and the pitman arm removed any further adjustment is going to be inaccurate and blind.

With the box on the car the adjustment screw is the ONLY way to remove slack.

That "big nut" (sheet metal) on one end adjusts the torsional friction of the input shaft. If you are even able to adjust that on the car (I applaud you if you could even try) the complexity and precision required is impossible to get in situ. Most of the box needs to be diassembled to adjust that nut properly.

Source: I currently reseal and adjust boxes.

Thanks for the info. I'll have to inspect further on the other components, like ball joints and tie rods, etc...

I know the OP had a W116, mines a W124 chassis and 4MATIC version. Additionally all my previous W124s, W201, and W202 didn't have alignment issues (the C280 pulled slightly) but it had nothing to do with the steering box.
This is my first 4MATIC version W124, so I'm considering other possibilities since there's additional hardware in the mix on the front end.


W116 6.9 in the movie Ronin

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Last edited by EuroRash; 07-23-2012 at 11:19 AM. Reason: correction: "W116"... and photos
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  #10  
Old 07-25-2012, 06:07 PM
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I have a bit of play in my steering wheel when the engine is off. It seems to be much less when the car is running and the steering box is pressurized. The play comes from the steering box because I can see the steering wheel shaft turn all the way down to the steering box. The tie rods barely move when I float the steering wheel from side to side. I'm not putting much pressure on it to turn it or anything. Would the adjustment mentioned in this thread relive the play in my steering box or is it only applicable if the box is under line pressure?
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  #11  
Old 07-25-2012, 06:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eatont9999 View Post
I have a bit of play in my steering wheel when the engine is off. It seems to be much less when the car is running and the steering box is pressurized. The play comes from the steering box because I can see the steering wheel shaft turn all the way down to the steering box. The tie rods barely move when I float the steering wheel from side to side. I'm not putting much pressure on it to turn it or anything. Would the adjustment mentioned in this thread relive the play in my steering box or is it only applicable if the box is under line pressure?
Have you checked your upper control arms for bushings or ball joint failures?
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  #12  
Old 07-26-2012, 11:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EuroRash View Post
Have you checked your upper control arms for bushings or ball joint failures?
Well, if that could cause the play in the wheel, then I can probably rule out the steering box. Anything I have not replaced already, needs to be. That means from ball joints to bearings to UCA. The parts are not ready to blow up or anything but the rest of the front end is slated to be replaced in the next year. The tie rods that I already replaced were the worst worn components of all aside from the guide rod which I am planning on doing soon. It is loose in the bearing bracket and clunks and thunks when I brake or go over gravel.
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1991 F250 super-cab 7.3 IDI. (rebuilt by me) Banks Sidewinder turbo, hydroboost brakes, new IP and injectors.
2003 S430 - 107K
1983 300SD - Tanoshii - mostly restored ~400K+.
1983 300SD - Good interior. Engine finally tamed ~250K.
Monark Nozzle Install Video - http://tinyurl.com/ptd2tge
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