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  #31  
Old 11-14-2006, 12:59 AM
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Plastic!

What? No braided stainless hose?

Jay.

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  #32  
Old 11-14-2006, 01:07 AM
ForcedInduction
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Feel free to donate some cash if you want to see stuff like that in there.

I used what I could afford and what I have will do just as well as steel braided lines.
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  #33  
Old 11-14-2006, 12:46 PM
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are you going to start out with clean oil and see how it goes? how long will it stay clear? will this setup clean out black sooty oil?
John
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  #34  
Old 11-14-2006, 04:37 PM
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fuel injection line clamps work way better than those screw clamps, and only cost a little bit-20%?- more. that is the style MB uses on their fuel lines. most parts stores stock them. although some employees may not have a clue....

looks good, i am waiting to hear back some results on this. will you/ have you had an Oil anylisis done?

though silly, I dont really like black oil, either.
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  #35  
Old 11-14-2006, 08:57 PM
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Thanks for doing this and letting us come along for the ride.

I had an Oilguard on my TDI and am thinking about adding a bypass to my newly acquired '83 once I get it baselined.

Please keep us updated on this project!
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  #36  
Old 11-14-2006, 09:49 PM
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Originally Posted by vstech View Post
are you going to start out with clean oil and see how it goes? how long will it stay clear? will this setup clean out black sooty oil?
John
Yep. I've got fresh Mobil Delvac 1 and new filters. After 24hours and about 30 miles, the oil is a light gray color.

I've sent in the oil sample from my last oil so we shall see how different it will be this round.
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  #37  
Old 11-15-2006, 07:44 PM
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We may be able to compare notes eventually. I'm thinking about a motor guard or frantz.
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  #38  
Old 11-26-2006, 09:51 PM
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A few questions.......

Forced,

I've got a Frantz unit on the way ($58 for a new filter, no hoses etc.......) a couple quick questions.........

first off, what kind of line did you use? Something that can withstand 100psi obviously!

Second, what made you decide to plumb off of the oil filter lid instead of the side of the canister? I'd rather take off the canister so that I don't have to ever disturb the lines again.....

I've got the return hose barb already plumbed in the valve cover right now.........

Also, where did you get your hoses and fittings from?
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  #39  
Old 11-26-2006, 10:03 PM
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Originally Posted by deerefanatic View Post
first off, what kind of line did you use? Something that can withstand 100psi obviously!

Second, what made you decide to plumb off of the oil filter lid instead of the side of the canister? I'd rather take off the canister so that I don't have to ever disturb the lines again.....
I used regular hydraulic line from The Parker Store. You should be able to goto a local hydraulic fitting/tubing store, tell them the inside diameter you need, the temperature range (0-300*f), and that it will be used with petroleum based oil.

The following ParkerStore is within 50 miles of your location, based on your ZIP code (49091).

Depatie Fluid Power
6256 American Avenue
Kalamazoo, MI 49003
Phone: 616-324-2850
Fax: 616-324-2870
Approx. distance: 34.4 miles

I used the lid because it's far more easy to replace the lid than the canister if something got fubar'd or the system didn't work. I used a flare fitting so that I can disconnect it with a wrench for oil changes.
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  #40  
Old 12-01-2006, 12:35 AM
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Here are the oil analysis results. This is Mobil Delvac 1300 with no bypass filter after 3000miles.
Attached Thumbnails
By-pass oil filter install-oil-sample-11-9-06.jpg  
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  #41  
Old 12-11-2006, 03:17 AM
JWJ JWJ is offline
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ForcedInduction,

Considering the low cost of this setup with it allowing longer oil change intervals is it cost beneficial considering the added expense of Mobil Delvac 1?

I suspect it is.

I've never seen gray oil from a diesel engine.

I'd love to see a picture of it...
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  #42  
Old 12-11-2006, 03:26 AM
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Originally Posted by JWJ View Post
Considering the low cost of this setup with it allowing longer oil change intervals is it cost beneficial considering the added expense of Mobil Delvac 1?
I'm not sure if it would be cost effective for most people.

Dino oil: $9/gal x2
Filter: $14
change 3K miles: $32

Syn oil: $27/gal x2
Filter: $14 (changed twice)
Total: $82

If I go 9k between services, I will have done 3 dino services for $96 total.
If I go 6k between services, I will have done 2 dino services for $64 total.

So somewhere around the 8000mile mark, I will break even between the two.

I don't do it for the cost. It's mostly for easier sub-0*f starts and it's better for the engine.
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  #43  
Old 12-24-2006, 11:09 AM
JWJ JWJ is offline
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Is the oil/filter change per mileage rate different on your cars?

The user manual for my '85 300TD states the oil and filter should be changed every 5,000 miles. Are the older MBs 3,000 miles?
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1983 MB 300D - > 430,000 miles - Deep Blue - Bilstein Comforts - 0-60 in 24 seconds - 27MPG
1985 MB 300TD (wagon) - > 275,000 miles - Manila Beige - Thule rack - 0-60 in 18 seconds - 22 - 25MPG
Biodiesel, Mobil Delvac 1, and Viton fuel lines!
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  #44  
Old 12-24-2006, 06:22 PM
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I'm going for 8,000-10,000 on this synthetic oil depending on what the oil analysis shows me when I take a sample at 5,000 miles.

5,000 miles might be fine for a new engine, but since most everyone has over 100k miles, 3,000 is better to extend the life of the engine.
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  #45  
Old 05-13-2007, 03:32 PM
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FI, can you give is an update to your bypass filtering? Any more oil analysis, any problems?

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