bringing this back :

anyone else running a remote oil-filter in there 240/300D?
I've got some clearance issues, and a remote filter setup would be sweet...

thanks

On my 84 300D there is space for a filter between the front Head Light and the Fender Well.
The main 2 issues with installing a bypass Oil Filter are where to tap into the Oil pressure and where to return the Oil back to the Engine.

In my case I tapped a 1/8 inch pipe hole into the center of the Oil Filter Cap. This has 2 advantages; 1-the Oil gets pre-filtered through the upper section of the stock Oil Filter, 2- since the upper section of the Oil Filter is also a bypass Filter there is already a restricted hole drilled in the top of the Oil Filter Tube/Stem so you will not lose any more Oil pressure by drawing your pressurized Oil from there.

Draing the Oil back to the Engine:
On my first set-up I removed the Oil Dip Stick and replace that with a rubber Hose and a section of tubing that the return Oil from the Bypass Oil Filter and clamped it to the Dip Stick Tube. But, this made it a pain to check the Oil as I had to disconnect it.
Later I changed that.
On the side of the block where the Fuel Injection Pump Timer is there is a Bolt. That Bolt goes though the Bolck and stick out into the Timer Chain Area and if for some reason the Timing Chain gets loose it keeps it from jumping off the teeth. But, under normal use that Bolt does not touch the Chaing.
I got another Bolt the same size and drilled it out and added a small length of 1/4 inch tube to it and exchanged it with the Bolt on the Block. So that is were the Oil now returns to the Oil pan.

Although I have changed my Filter set-up I also have a thread. I previously had been using a Baldwin bypass Oil Filter made for use on Carrier Gen Sets that are used on Refer Units. But, I found out it was only a 5 nominal micron Filter.
Look up the definitions of Nominal Micron ratings and absolute mircon ratings and then looke up the newer Beta Ratings.

In the pics below is my current Bypass Oil Filter set-up. The Filter Element is a commercial cotton String wound filter. It is 2 nominal Microns. This is not as good as a 2 absolute micron Oil filter but because I bought a case of Filter Elements the cost was $2.50 per each Element.
I made the Filter Housing myself; making it was a lot of work and I do not think I will be making another one unless I can figure out an easier way to do that.
But, you can see the space available to mount any tupe of filter. My Filter Housing is about 1 foot long and 3 + inches wide.

Attached Thumbnails

   

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Here is my old thread:
Bypass Oil Filter Setup, 617.952

There are several Bypass Oil Filters out there. The easiest ones to set-up have Filter elements that cost $25to$30 each range.
With the Amsoil Filter element if you find out what size it is threaded for you can get an inexpensive Filter Base on eBay.
If you tap into the Oil pressure some place other than where I did (in the center of the Oil Filter Cap) you will need to create your own restricted fitting on the inlet or outlet fitting otherwise you will lose too much Oil Volume and most likely Oil pressure also.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

rather then tapping lines into the existing oil-filter housing, I was looking for an option that would allow me to relocate the housing or replace it with a more modern spin-on solution

found a few examples, please see attached jpgs.

Attached Thumbnails

     

Well, you have found the options.

People who use them are doing so because the Engine is most often going into a non-Mercedes.

With the adapter plates if you want an Oil Cooler Thermostat you would need to add one.

Also the Mercedes Oil Filter Housing has the Oil Filter Bypass Valve built into it.
The highest hot Oil pressure I get on my Engine is 97 psi. I do not know what the Oil Flow volume is.

Someone needs to reasearch which Spin-on Oil filter will work without having that Oil Volume and Pressure opening the Bypass Valve that is built into many Spin-on Oil Filters.

Or use a Hydraulic Filter or an Oil Filter that has no Bypass Valve and hope the Filter Element never gets plugged up.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

sounds like the best compromise might be to keep the stock housing, but simply move it to another location.



and you are correct, om617 will be going into my current project

Looks like you are almost done!

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I have an Amsoil bypass filter, but have yet to install it. It came out of an SD, and the filter housings are slightly different than the D. Supply was tapped into the rear of the panel, with return into the valve cover. I keep waiting on a time to install this, but have other projects in the way.

any chance you can post some additional details on this bypass filter?

pics are also welcomed

thanks,
manny

In the attached Diagram I removed Bolt #94 and replaced it with one I had drilled out and installed a tube to act as the Nipple to attatch the drain Hose for my Bypass Oil filter.
That way I did not have to Drill and Tap anyplace else on the Engine.

The guy who started this thread used an Amaoils Bypass Filter.

Attached Thumbnails

 

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Yes installing a remote filter is possible.
On my 240d I have a frantz filter installed.

The best place to tap into the oil line is at the input for the oil pressure gauge, the T fitting is hard to find, but it is available from a few places, and there is not need to drill anywhere to find an oil pressure point, the fitting size is 12x1.5 mm, and make sure the T has a hexagon shape otherwise it will not fit.

When working on removing the oil sender hose to install the T, use a nut wrench such as
http://www.harborfreight.com/5-piece-metric-double-end-flare-nut-wrench-set-99993.html
since it is normally very tight.

Here is a link for one place that has the T:
http://www.speedograph-richfield.com/html/oil_pipe_lines.html
the part number is TP6

When installing the 1/8 hole has to face the opposite direction of the MB filter so that you can use a 1/8 x 27 NTP fitting, otherwise a washer on the T may help so that the 1/8 faces a different position.

Since the bypass filter uses a restrictor 1/16" in diameter, the oil pressure gauge will keep working normally.

For the return I use an amsoil swivel fitting, but rubber stops for the hood were a little worn out, and made a little dent on the hood with the swivel fitting, I have replaced the rubber stop for the hood, and the amsoil swivel fitting seems to be working but there is almost no free clearance for the hood, but a better location for the return is probably the valve cover.

checho, so where does the return attach to? Do you have any images of your install?

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Current Diesels:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (169k)
1985 190D (169k)
1991 350SD (116k)
1991 350SD (206k)
1991 300D (228k)
2008 ML320 CDI (199k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (267k)

Past Diesels:
1983 300D (228K), 1985 300D (233K), 1993 300D 2.5T (338k), 1993 300SD (291k)

The Seller of the TP6 T fitting appears to be in the UK not the US.
Is there a US source that you know of?

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Since that particular setup is no longer available, I have had one designed with just the two lines to connect a standard filter, and laser cut from 1/4" steel. I am planning on a double filter head that holds two Napa 21515 (or 1773 filters for more capacity). Separate thermostats aren't very expensive, and it's actually cheaper to build and run a remote filter setup with thermostat and aftermarket oil cooler than it is to replace your hoses in most cases.
I have to go with this setup, as my adapter plate runs right across where the oil pressure sender mounts.

Ideas others have used for the Retun Oil from a bypass Oil Filter.

Drilled and tap the Valve Cover as ForcedInduction did in post #30

Amsoil I believe sells Oil Fill Caps that have the return fitting on the cap. However, I do not think they make one specific for Mercedes.

When I fist did mine I removed the Dipstick and had the return Oil going down the Dipstick Tube. It worked and required no drilling but was a pain to check the Oil becaue I had to remove the Hose attachment to insert the Dipstick.
So I relocated the return as in Post #70

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel