very urgent transmission cooler line leak! - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

TheDon · #1 10-23-2006, 07:31 PM

drivers side, right at the lil bracket that attaches to the oil pan, gushing fluid out when car is on, duct tape will not fix this, i need a part# and instructions on how the hell to replace it

(edit the line is not the rubber one but the metal one pre rubber female/female and i notice the new ones on fastlane are spring wrapped.. wonderful not the part i need)

and this comes at the day my mom cancles the internet and i order the skid frign plate.... i hate german engineers.. what a brilliant idea, metal on metal contact...splendid

ive got the ACT saturday, then an interview for nomintation for recomendation to West point soon.. very soon, i have homecoming to coordinate, my god my god my life is going to hell in a handbasket.. im buying a beetle

email me at skateboarderx24@gmail.com if you can help me.. i need lots of help, and not mental this time

pawoSD · #2 10-23-2006, 08:03 PM

I am pretty sure that little piece of pipe is only attached at the tranny, and with that one bracket on the side of the engine, it should be fairly easy to remove and install, I'd change the rubber lines to the radiator at the same time. As for finding one, your local MB dealer could get it, or call phil on fastlane, he'd be able to get it for you most likely as well.

Replacing it should be pretty easy, a walk in the park compared to changing out the engine oil cooler lines, those. are. hard.

By the way, those "German Engineers" put a nylon plastic washer between that pipe and the bracket when the car was built, but after 23+ years of vibration and road elements, it most likely fell off/dissolved away, leaving it with metal to metal contact, hence your problem.

Rashakor · #3 10-23-2006, 08:04 PM

Well, there is supposed to be a rubber sleeve to prevent metal/metal contact.
Contrarily to the oil lines, the ATF line don't have a part number anywhere (Phil any comment?). What i did with mine is that i brazed a metal sleeve on the pipe. I also changed the brakets because with the new fat sleeves the original braket is too small. I really would like to do the flexble oil line but you are circulating ATF at high temperature... The spring rubber hose are only the front part of these oil line...

pawoSD · #4 10-23-2006, 08:09 PM

My guess is that modern stainless braided or high pressure/temp hydraulic hose would easily withstand the requirements of that setup, it would just need to be properly fastened to the car and the fittings would need to be correct (metric) etc...probably easily doable.

#5 10-23-2006, 08:17 PM

I replaced the one on the passengers side a few weeks ago, it's a dealer part. You need the replacement line and replacement rubber bushings that go between the brackets/clamps and the line, there are several on each side. All the parts cost me about $90. As a temporary fix, I cut out the leaking section (with a tubing cutter) and put a section of fuel line in it's place with a couple of hose clamps. The temporary fix worked fine for a week or so until I got the parts, it may work as a longer term fix but I didn't really trust it.

Mustang_man298 · #6 10-23-2006, 10:40 PM

Too bad its not a 240...I have a spare set for one, the 300 uses longer lines though. If its just a nick in the line, go to home depot, get a tubing cutter, and a brass or stainless coupler compression fitting for metal tubing of the correct size, cut the line directly over the hole, and bang, permanent fix, replace the missing clamp rubber and move the clamp one bolt over on the oil pan to clear the coupler. Done it before and works great for a couple bucks. This also works on fuel lines.
DISCLAIMER: Do NOT attempt this repair on any brake system lines.

OMEGAMAN · #7 10-24-2006, 12:04 AM

Remove the line and have it brazed or silver soldered. I had to do mine on both sides. Its easy to fix. If you know an HVAC guy (im sure everyone does in florida) ask him to silver solder it.

JimmyL · #8 10-24-2006, 12:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TheDon

im buying a beetle

Sounds like a good plan for you. May I recommend Craigslist..........

sixto · #9 10-24-2006, 01:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mustang_man298

Too bad its not a 240...I have a spare set for one, the 300 uses longer lines though.

Why? A 240D transmission is just as far from the radiator as a 300D transmission. That said, the bends and fittings might be different.

Look for that fellow jim12345678-something-or-other with the longest thread going in the parts forum. I'm sure he has a parts car that has good transmission lines.

Sixto
93 300SD

airbus · #10 10-24-2006, 07:48 AM

Use rubber hose, metal will break again through the vibration, if you connect it to the oil pan again. Cut out the leaking part of your metal line and connect both ends with a piece of fuel hose and hose clamps. I fixed both sides on my 300D like that over a year ago and it works just fine. Less than one hour of labor and 5 bucks in parts.

#11 10-24-2006, 08:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by airbus

Use rubber hose, metal will break again through the vibration, if you connect it to the oil pan again. Cut out the leaking part of your metal line and connect both ends with a piece of fuel hose and hose clamps. I fixed both sides on my 300D like that over a year ago and it works just fine. Less than one hour of labor and 5 bucks in parts.

That's a good temporary solution, mine was like that for a week. However, I would still replace the part. There is no reason it will fail again if the rubber grommets are in place (there are about three on each side). My right side tube lasted 350K miles and 24 years, and it only failed because I didn't notice the grommet was degraded. My left side tube is still original.

TheDon · #12 10-24-2006, 08:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OMEGAMAN

Remove the line and have it brazed or silver soldered. I had to do mine on both sides. Its easy to fix. If you know an HVAC guy (im sure everyone does in florida) ask him to silver solder it.

my neighbor is an hvac guy, i was afraid of ya know the heat causing the ATF to catch or something. im going to get some of those compression fittings and silver soder it then put a ruber hose over it like it should be... thanks guys

#13 10-24-2006, 09:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TheDon

my neighbor is an hvac guy, i was afraid of ya know the heat causing the ATF to catch or something. im going to get some of those compression fittings and silver soder it then put a ruber hose over it like it should be... thanks guys

Are you going to fix it in place? The correct parts for the grommets is A 112 997 02 81. This thread addressed the same issue:

ATF line broke for the 2nd time!

Mustang_man298 · #14 10-24-2006, 08:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sixto

Why? A 240D transmission is just as far from the radiator as a 300D transmission. That said, the bends and fittings might be different.

Look for that fellow jim12345678-something-or-other with the longest thread going in the parts forum. I'm sure he has a parts car that has good transmission lines.

Sixto
93 300SD

I'm not so sure on that......when I swapped the 617 into my 80 240D, I had to get a shorter front half driveline (replaced the whole thing as the rear section was same length but girthier on the 300), different narrower crossmember to fit the next back set of body tunnel holes (about 6' back), shorter shifter linkage, and longer metal trans lines. All came from a (79 I believe) 300D at the wrecker. The trans lines looked identical but were longer side by side. remember you have to move the trans back to make room for that extra cylinder and keep the fan where it belongs....

blueranger · #15 10-25-2006, 01:03 AM

cut the pipe with your dremmel tool... then slide about 6 inches
of rubber hose over it and secure both ends with 2 clamps... it will work
just fine and cost only 2 dollars. It will out last the car.

I have a spare pipe if you dont want to repair it... I will trade you for something.