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  #1  
Old 11-29-2006, 07:57 AM
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Location: Wilmington, NC
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Originally Posted by pawoSD View Post
I just bought a kit off ebay...I'd been wanting to do that for a long time. Its a kit with the little computer box, two remotes, and two motorized actuators. (and a bunch of wiring) $35 not bad. I'll install it as soon as I get it. Now I won't have to worry about my lock freezing shut this winter, I won't need the key!
If my door switches were working, that's exactly how I'd do it. Unfortunatley they're not, so I'm going the direct-to-pump route.

Turns out my pump is bad at the circuit board -- the motor/pump work prefectly. Last night I pirated it and soldered two relays (lock and unlock) and bench tested it. So far, so good. Cool thing about that is all my new relays/wiring will fit nicely along with the pump in the old housing.

The remote I got from AutoZone only provides short 300ma pulses for the lock and unlock functions. I think I may need a timer relay to provide more time for the pump to do it's job.

That'll be clear once I mount the unit on the car.
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Old 11-29-2006, 08:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Lux View Post
The remote I got from AutoZone only provides short 300ma pulses for the lock and unlock functions. I think I may need a timer relay to provide more time for the pump to do it's job.
300ma or 300milliseconds? 300ma is not enough juice to run the pump an 300milliseconds in not long enough to unlock all the actuators. On my 300Sd it took 2-3 seconds to lock/unlock all the elements.

The kit I bought from AZ had a dip switch to select 300ms or 3 seconds. You may want to check yours to see if there is a similar setting.

The wiring diagram above will help with the 300ma problem.
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Old 11-29-2006, 08:32 AM
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Originally Posted by thorsen View Post
300ma or 300milliseconds? 300ma is not enough juice to run the pump an 300milliseconds in not long enough to unlock all the actuators. On my 300Sd it took 2-3 seconds to lock/unlock all the elements.

The kit I bought from AZ had a dip switch to select 300ms or 3 seconds. You may want to check yours to see if there is a similar setting.

The wiring diagram above will help with the 300ma problem.
300ma signal -- enough to activate the relays. Not sure of the duration. I'll check for the dip switches. If there's a switch, it's inside the case and isn't talked about in the instructions.
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Old 11-29-2006, 01:51 PM
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Have no idea what I did, but while re-orienting some of my output circuits, I now have a non-pulse signal for just over 2 seconds.

Still bench-testing. I'll definitely post my results.
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  #5  
Old 11-29-2006, 02:05 PM
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Lux,
You do know there is NO vacuum actuator, or even a vacuum line, to the lock in the driver's door on a 1982 300SD.

To unlock the driver's door on the first generation 126, using keyless entry, you must either put an vacuum actuator and line into that door, or piggyback an electric actuator onto the lock rod.

The electric actuator will then signal the pump, thru the driver's door lock microswitch.

Pindelski.com has a 52 picture write-up on this; well worth the subscription price.
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Old 11-29-2006, 02:13 PM
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Originally Posted by jbaj007 View Post
Lux,
You do know there is NO vacuum actuator, or even a vacuum line, to the lock in the driver's door on a 1982 300SD.

To unlock the driver's door on the first generation 126, using keyless entry, you must either put an vacuum actuator and line into that door, or piggyback an electric actuator onto the lock rod.

The electric actuator will then signal the pump, thru the driver's door lock microswitch.

Pindelski.com has a 52 picture write-up on this; well worth the subscription price.
My mityvac closes all four door locks, the tunk and gas door. When I apply positive pressure, all six open. Also, my CD shop manual shows actuators at all six points.
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Old 11-29-2006, 07:44 PM
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And we now have working remote locks!!!

If I ever get a decent digital camera, I'll post some pics.

Thanks to those of you who helped.
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  #8  
Old 11-29-2006, 01:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Lux View Post
300ma signal -- enough to activate the relays. Not sure of the duration. I'll check for the dip switches. If there's a switch, it's inside the case and isn't talked about in the instructions.

To expound -- the 12V/300mA signal is used to close the contacts on a normally open pole. I have 12v/8A attached to that pole which starts the pump once the contact closes. I have two relays wired thusly -- one for unlock and one wired reverse polarity for lock.

Hope that made sense.
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