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#1
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I guess ALL the lines need to be changed
Well, we got under the '83 today, it had been seeping from the rear main brake line (the one that goes from master cylinder to that splitter/distributor in back) and finally got it out, line broke in 3 places while removing it due to severe corrosion under the brackets with rubber pieces that hold in the lines. We thought the fuel ones would be ok, but nope, one of them cracked and started dripping so I pulled the rubber off, and it was almost completely corroded through. Soooooo....all new lines will be put in. For the fuel line would it be ok to use rubber MB fuel hose all along from the tank to engine? It'd make things much much easier (and possibly cheaper).
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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life- '15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800) '17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k) '09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k) '13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k) '01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km) '16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k) |
#2
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Quote:
On the brake line, you can make your own, but if Mercedes uses the same bubble flare as most european cars, the tool to flare them is ~$100. NAPA has pre-cut lengths that I have used before. |
#3
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Yeah we have the MB custom length brake line already, its pre-flared and has the screw fittings on it, we just have to bend it while installing...and we got a bending tool today. We just want to use rubber fuel hose to avoid having to bend/fit all that annoying fuel line too. Thanks! We'll probably go rubber then.
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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life- '15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800) '17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k) '09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k) '13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k) '01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km) '16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k) |
#4
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I used rubber on mine (fuel). It was either 3/8 or 5/8 ID (can't remember, but 3/8 sounds right).
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1989 300E 144K |
#5
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I used a tubing bender for the fuel line but I didn't find it necessary for the brake line except in one spot (right angle just before the rear trailing arm).
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'82 240D, 215,000 + Classic White, Regenbogen |
#6
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If you're planning on going to the dealer for fuel hose--- You're going to be hurting.
It was 10 dollars for a meter. Injector return lines cost me $20, I am almost loathe to ask how much it'd cost to run a line from the tank to the pump. This isn't something that needs to come from MB, I'm almost sure-- I wouldn't trust rubber where metal was used as factory. Question: If putting a rubber ducktail on the car is a bastardization of the engineers' original work, then how is this different? Use what came on the car--Jerryrigging often costs more than just doing it correctly. One cut in that rubber line could cost you an entire tank of fuel. That'd likely cost as much as just doing it right.
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http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i1...Untitled-1.jpg |
#7
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Out of the five lines that run to the back of my TD, three were leaking - both fuel lines and at least one of the SLS lines. The brake line looks like it has been replaced previously.
I patched the rusty areas in the fuel lines with 5/16 Gates fuel hose - purchased at my local Car Quest. Not particularly expensive. I have a major leak in the SLS system at the rubber pad right under the B post - looks like the pressure line. I was able to see the trail of hydraulic fluid I left last night during my test drive. The trail ends right under the car where I parked it. I can't use hose there, but fortunately the leak is easy to get to (no jacking required). In the spring I plan to drop the rear end and replace all the lines.
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1984 300TD |
#8
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replaced all mine with bulk lines from Napa. Worked just fine;no real trouble with the flares, either. Harbor freight tool worked fine.
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Paul 2004 E500 4matic; 72,000mi |
#9
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Well then, I feel sorry for you.
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#10
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http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i1...Untitled-1.jpg |
#11
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The longer line is $51, shorter one is $40, rubber MB fuel hose is $22 a meter. My dad wants to use the metal original lines, I agree original is the best way to go....
__________________
-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life- '15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800) '17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k) '09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k) '13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k) '01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km) '16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k) |
#12
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Pawo-- I did the math in my head, and the 'savings' didn't really make much sense to me!
I wanted to fall over whenever the guy at the parts counter told me it was 20 dollars just for enough fuel hose to connect the injectors!
__________________
http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i1...Untitled-1.jpg |
#13
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Because the though process that you go through when you replace a part on one car that you own twenty years after it ended production should not be the same thought process that the original manufacturer went through while designing the car. The metal fuel line is in all likelyhood less expensive to manufacture than rubber, when done in bulk. Also, flexible line technology may have changed sugnificantly in the last thirty years. Metal lines have advantages, so do flexible lines. Metal lines can actually crack.
Finally, I just hate this argument that if the factory did something one way it must be the only way. Don't do a bad job, but don't be afraid to do something different either. If the metal line is $51, I would probably buy it. Despite what I have said, all things equal, I do like to keep things stock. But if it was $200, I wouldn't. YMMV. |
#14
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my W126 had the same problem.
be absolutely carefull with that brass distributer in the back, it's VERY easy to strip. I used rubber hoses on the low pressure return line, and hardlines for the brake/high pressure fuel lines. A standered inverted flare will work, if you use the right unions with them. A GOOD flaring tool is always a good investment. Now would be a good time to check the back brakes - My calipers were frozen closed when I bought the car. A $100 brake job turned into nearly $500 (calipers, rotors, brake pads, flaring tool, tubing, unions....)
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-1983 VW Rabbit LS Diesel (5speed, VNT/Giles build) |
#15
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We're going to use all OEM metal lines, total cost is just under $120 for all including the brake line, we bought a tube bender so we're set there.
The distributor looks ok and survived the line removal, I was very careful. The rest of the rear beake equipment is doing ok still.
__________________
-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life- '15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800) '17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k) '09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k) '13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k) '01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km) '16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k) |
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