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  #16  
Old 11-17-2006, 05:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rs899 View Post
I need to do this-

Are M&M Dist's prices listed here still fairly accurate? This string is several years old. Looks to be about $50 for this stuff on ebay.

Rick
I didnt have the serial number of the turbo - so I couldnt get a list of parts needed.


I'm giving them a call tomarrow.

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  #17  
Old 11-17-2006, 06:39 PM
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Thumbs up

Yes, I bought that stuff there. It's M&D as I recall... Mom & Dad...
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I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look.

'85 300SD 245k
'87 300SDL 251k
'90 300SEL 326k

Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford.

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  #18  
Old 11-20-2006, 12:33 PM
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M&D dont have a clue.



anyone have a garrett assembly number for a 1992 w124?
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  #19  
Old 11-22-2006, 01:45 PM
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OK



I'm lost.



Does ANYONE know what garrett series t3 were used in the mercedes? I cant seem to find any info, or anyone who knows. I'd like to rebuild myself.
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  #20  
Old 12-17-2006, 05:32 PM
self MB Diesel student
 
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Question 300D turbo rebuild

Hello all,

Been reading this thread about rebuilding the turbo for an 83 300D. Question are the 300D and 300SD turbos the same? I have a 300SD whose turbo is very hard to turn and therefore I assumed it is needing TLC. I also have a 84 300D in the yard wich willingly gave up its turbo for me to practice taking it apart for rebuilding. so if I rebuild this one will it work properly in my 84 300SD? Just bolting it on does not constitute proper fit.

Thanks to all who will give me their input

adriano
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83 300SD 500,300 miles (Well seasoned work horse AKA "Put Put")
93 300D 245,000 miles (Moms Baby AKA "Sweat Pea")
87 300D 185,000 miles (Life giver, aka parts car for my 300SD)
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  #21  
Old 12-17-2006, 09:23 PM
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I had a 1984 SD turbo with a chassis w126 and the chassis on my 1985 D turbo is a w123. Does that help?
Cheers,
Frankie
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  #22  
Old 01-20-2007, 04:43 PM
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The W123 and W126 (through 1985) cars used the same OM617 engines. However, you'll find two different turbo manufacturers, Garrett and KKK. Although I don't know for sure, I wouldn't be surprised if they are not interchangeable--meaning you couldn't mount a Garrett T3 on an engine originally equipped with a KKK because the mounting arrangement might be different.

I have a 1982 300SD with a Garrett T3. On the back side of the compressor housing, there's a small plate with the model number, which is the first set of digits on the second line (in my case, 465228-3). Don't know whether the Garretts found on 1992 W124's (OM603 or OM606?) have a plate in the same place, but it's worth a look. You may need a mirror, a flashlight, and very good eyesight.

Paul
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Turbo Rebuild-pa090547.jpg  
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  #23  
Old 05-03-2007, 01:05 PM
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What about balancing? The turbo spins at such a large velocity, I would think that balancing would be a VERY important part of rebuilding a turbo. Probably why its big bucks to rebuild them. I didn't see anything in these posts about what was being done about the balancing. Do you just put the compressor wheel back on EXACTLY where it came off and call it good?
Baja
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  #24  
Old 05-03-2007, 10:36 PM
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You're right, the shaft spins in excess of 100K rpm, so balancing is pretty important.

If neither your turbine nor your compressor wheel is damaged at all, you could, in theory, mark the position of the compressor wheel and compressor wheel nut relative to the shaft (remember, the turbine wheel/shaft is a single component) and reassemble them exactly the same. However, the only place to mark them before disassembly is at the very end of the shaft, and there's a high likelihood your markings would come off with cleaning.

The better option is to pay a shop to clean the parts, mount the compressor and nut on the shaft (maybe use a new nut), balance it and mark it. Then you put it back into the housing, aligning the marks again when tightening.

I had mine balanced by Tim's Turbos, 3217 Annandale Rd, Falls Church VA 22042, phone 703.241.7411. He charged me $55 including bead blasting. He's local for me, so you'd have shipping costs, too, but maybe you can find someone near you.
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  #25  
Old 05-04-2007, 08:39 AM
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Or you can get a drop in replacement. Check post #10 here:
Rebuilding Turbo

Danny
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  #26  
Old 05-04-2007, 09:21 AM
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all the balancing is done on the nut, replacing the nut is a BIG no no. Unless you re-balance it.
John
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  #27  
Old 05-04-2007, 01:11 PM
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Let me clarify my last post. Here's a pic of the cleaned and rebalanced shaft assembly. The new nut is at the right side of the photo. Replacing this, or any part of the assembly, would warrant rebalancing. But balancing is generally done by grinding the "nut" (barely visible) at the extreme left side of the photo. This is not a removable nut, but the hexagonal end of the shaft/turbine component. (And yes, I forgot to mention that the thrust bearing needs to be part of the balance.)
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  #28  
Old 05-29-2007, 03:24 PM
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Tired Turbo Trouble

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hit Man X View Post
Bump for people with leaky turbos.
Hi Hit Man X. Are saying that my 300SD Turbo is likely a Klaus? Do you know where I might find a good remanned turbo?

Thanks a bunch!
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  #29  
Old 05-29-2007, 03:25 PM
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Tired Turbo Trouble

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hit Man X View Post
Bump for people with leaky turbos.
Hi Hit Man X. Are saying that my 300SD Turbo is likely a Klaus? Do you know where I might find a good remanned turbo?

Thanks a bunch!
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  #30  
Old 05-29-2007, 03:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wm. Lewallen View Post
Here is the list of parts to rebuild the Garrett turbo on my 1982 300D turbo;
Ring,Piston TO4(1)..............$3.16
Ring,Piston TO4B (1)............$1.50
Locknut Left hand thread(1).....$1.27 (not used)
Snap Ring(4)..@0.15.............$0.60
0-Ring(1).......................$1.50
Bearing T04E(2)@$1.81...........$3.62
Thrust Bearing T04(1)...........$4.74
-------
$16.39
Ship and hand 5.92
Total....$22.31
Good luck. You should have no problems. The only problem I had was getting the oil return line aligned. That's why I say to mark the sections before you take it apart. Another small problem I had was I could not get one of screws out. I took it to my friend who has a machine shop,and he heated it with a torch and it came right out.
You may want to clean the rusty screws and reuse them.I did mine. Soak them in a strong solution of citric acid overnite. Citric acid is lemon juice and will not harm your skin. You can get citric acid at your Super Market. Look in the Home Canning Section. Yes, it is the same citric acid your Mercedes dealer sells for flushing cooling systems.Same stuff.
Bill Lewallen;Lexington,Ky.
Hi WM. Lewallen. Do you think that this same method could apply to an '85 300SD?

Thanks!

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