bumpity bump

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Adam Lumsden
(83) 300D
Vice-President of the MBCA International Stars Section

Are any of you guys running Pyrometers and Boost gauges to set up the fuel and turbo?

On Toyota diesels many are boosting the indirect injected engine to 14 psi. Conservative at 10 psi.

Also maximizing fuel useage can only be realized using a pyrometer(to effectively see Exaust gas temps) We go with a max of 1250 degrees F.

When older turbos start to produce less boost, either from a weak wastegate actuator or worn blades, your air levels drop and since your fuel is the same amount going into the engine you can get high EGT's, underload on a hill with your foot deep into the carpet. Enough so that damage could occur.

Notice older diesels smoking heavy under load. Could be many factors tho. Overfueling is the reason for the smoke.

Even Naturally aspirated diesels benefit from running a pyro, I was able on my Yota diesel to crank the fuel up a bit and get more useable power, with out getting too hot under load. Although any diesel can get to hot under load and get into the metal fatique range. I have see 1600 F on the pyro before. It requires downshifting to get more air in the engine and also backing off on the throttle.

Cheers, Darryl

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77 300D- new to me, lots of "issues" to deal with. But a nice unit.
Diesel man- 84 Toyota Diesel cruiser

I run a pyro and boost guage on my W116......I have the boost turned up a little and have the full load limiter turned up in the IP too.

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Proud owner of ....
1971 280SE W108
1979 300SD W116
1983 300D W123
1975 Ironhead Sportster chopper
1987 GMC 3/4 ton 4X4 Diesel
1989 Honda Civic (Heavily modified)
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Section 609 MVAC Certified
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"He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you." - Friedrich Nietzsche

You're right, the shaft spins in excess of 100K rpm, so balancing is pretty important.

If neither your turbine nor your compressor wheel is damaged at all, you could, in theory, mark the position of the compressor wheel and compressor wheel nut relative to the shaft (remember, the turbine wheel/shaft is a single component) and reassemble them exactly the same. However, the only place to mark them before disassembly is at the very end of the shaft, and there's a high likelihood your markings would come off with cleaning.

The better option is to pay a shop to clean the parts, mount the compressor and nut on the shaft (maybe use a new nut), balance it and mark it. Then you put it back into the housing, aligning the marks again when tightening.

I had mine balanced by Tim's Turbos, 3217 Annandale Rd, Falls Church VA 22042, phone 703.241.7411. He charged me $55 including bead blasting. He's local for me, so you'd have shipping costs, too, but maybe you can find someone near you.

Or you can get a drop in replacement. Check post #10 here:
Rebuilding Turbo

Danny

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1984 300SD Turbo Diesel 150,000 miles

OBK member #23

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all the balancing is done on the nut, replacing the nut is a BIG no no. Unless you re-balance it.
John

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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 560SL convertible
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
2005 Dodge Sprinter 2500 158"WB
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!

Let me clarify my last post. Here's a pic of the cleaned and rebalanced shaft assembly. The new nut is at the right side of the photo. Replacing this, or any part of the assembly, would warrant rebalancing. But balancing is generally done by grinding the "nut" (barely visible) at the extreme left side of the photo. This is not a removable nut, but the hexagonal end of the shaft/turbine component. (And yes, I forgot to mention that the thrust bearing needs to be part of the balance.)

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