Cost of 603 Engine Rebuild - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

HGV · #1 07-08-2003, 02:05 AM

I am thinking of rebuilding the engine on my 87 300TD. It has 233k on it and has been burning a quart of dino oil every 700 to 1000miles. It has lost power when the turbo is not doing it's thing . It is my main ride and I need the reliabilty and pleasure of driving a well running car.

I am thinking of doing the rebuild myself or buying a factory engine. I know the factory engine is expensive, but it comes with a 4 year or 48k warranty which has value. Has anyone purchased a factory rebuild and if so, what comes with it? I would expect turbo, intake exhaust, starter and maybe the alternator and other bolt ons.

If I was to rebuild the engine I would do the following:
1. New Pistons
2. Rod work
3. Crank grind only if it needs it
4. Line bore
5. Injection pump and injector rebuild
6. Leave the head alone since I did a complete valve job at 200K

Have I left anything major out?

Any coments would be helpful before I dive in.

Henry

sixto · #2 07-08-2003, 03:01 AM

Have you checked the price of a short block from Metric Motors or Adsit?

It's probably worth doing a compression and leakdown test to check the rings. It could be that you have a bad turbo seal causing the bulk of your oil consumption problem. If you disable the EGR valve vent the valve cover breather hose to atmosphere, how much oil do you get from the turbo?

Sixto
95 S420
91 300SE
87 300SDL
83 300SD

#3 07-08-2003, 07:59 AM

Taking apart an engine for rebuild is "like a box of chocolates, you never know what you're going to get."

Doing a compression and leakdown test gives you an idea about whether you only need to do the head or go the rest of the way into the engine, but if you do go the rest of the way, you just don't know what you'll need 'til you get it apart and measure everything.

Just like a doctor examines before he prescribes, so goes engine rebuilding. If you don't have experience, measuring, examining and rebuilding engines, the quality rebuilt is probably the best way to go.

Good luck,

HGV · #4 07-08-2003, 12:53 PM

Thanks for the comments.

THe engine has experianced a noticible and progressive loss of power, coupled with an increase in oil consumption. The engine went through a series of over heats until I removed the head, expecting to find cracks, I did not, did a valve job, replaced the hydraulic lifters and put the car back together. At the time, cost was a big issue and time. Car has run for the last 33k with no significant problems other that oil consumption and the loss of non turbo power. Fuel economy is also suffering.

THe IP is also questionable with nailing when cold, and now all the time. Not a problem, but the car sounds like Chitty Chitty Bang Bang. I will confirm the state of the engine with a compression and leak down test, but in the interim, I would like to develop a buget for engine rebuild or change out.

As you all know, these engines can nickle and dime you till you have spent half of a new engine. Sometimes better off to take the plunge and spend the money, then reap the rewards. Anyway, if I do go for the engine swap or rebuild, need to start saving up the funds.

Henry

#5 07-08-2003, 04:21 PM

If you're losing oil and turbo boost, I would look into a rebuilt turbo before ripping the engine apart..

samiam4 · #6 07-08-2003, 11:49 PM

I'd price a set of OS pistons, bearings, timing chain, all guides, etc.. I'd put a Water pump and Vacuum pump on the engine too.
rebuilding a IP is $600-1500, so a factory rebuilds are reasonable.

Check your boost and engine. The engines should last longer than 200k with regular oil changes.

Michael

psfred · #7 07-09-2003, 01:08 AM

As of two years ago, engine rebuild costs about $5000 for parts, 50 hours labor. This includes new pistions, liners, bearings, tappets, new head, etc.

Since you have the new head, you are talking more like $5000 for the new pistons, bearings, and machine work.

Check the condition of the turbo and blowby volume (and get a compression and leakdown test) before getting serious about a rebuild.

Peter

#8 01-16-2006, 02:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by turbodiesel

If you're losing oil and turbo boost, I would look into a rebuilt turbo before ripping the engine apart..

Any one know what the cost of a rebuilt turbo is and where to get one inexpensivly?

Hatterasguy · #9 01-16-2006, 04:51 PM

I think a 603's turbo runs about $500, plus or minus a few hundred. However you can rebuild it yourself do a search.

theref · #10 01-16-2006, 05:00 PM

I had to replace the engine in my 87 300D. I elected to go with a factory crate engine. This was in Nov of 2003. The cost was about $7500 plus labor. The new engine does NOT come with new turbo, alternator, etc. All you get is a new block and head. In fact, I think the injectors had to come off the old engine.

Hatterasguy · #11 01-16-2006, 05:03 PM

That would be a long block then. A "crate" 603 is about $13k and comes with everything, new alt, water pump, PS pump, turbo, IP, vac pump, ect.

Throw in a set of engine mounts and shocks and then drop her in.

I think they come with a four year warranty from MB.

Brian Carlton · #12 01-16-2006, 05:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by h46fixers

Any one know what the cost of a rebuilt turbo is and where to get one inexpensivly?

http://www.majesticturbo.com/

http://linux.forcedperformance.net/merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=FP&Product_Code=TUEVOWR&Category_Code=Lancer_Turbo

reinier · #13 01-16-2006, 05:26 PM

I have rebuild a couple of engines (couple of Renault, and a 2.3-16 MB)that are stille running well!), and I can say that the most expensive parts are the pistons.

Mostly, the bearings are very cheap, here in the Netherlands MB bearings were CHEAPER and faster delivered than aftermaket ones.
Expect max. 200-300 euros for bearings and oil simmer rings.
Oil pump ussually is not very expensive either (100 euros).

pistons for a turbodiesel are here available for 130-140 euros a piece, and 200 for a 'kitset' (i think this is with liner). Mahle brand, which is good. (I am talking aftermarket here, maybe MB is cheaper, you never know....)

Then you need the timing chain, sprockets, gaskets etc.

But again: in the engine you'll lose the most on pistons.

When the engine is still runing good, you only have to get the crank measured, and maybe polish it a bit, and its ok.
I dont think its doable if you have 2 left hands. I myself am a mechanic and specialised in man. gearbox overhauling (and a bit experience with overhauling engines), and have a workshop with most the tools (not the big machinery for boring out cilinders etc.), so i can do it in a couple of days.
But if you are a newbie to this, you'll:
-have to invest a couple of hundred in tools
-have to have a couple of weeks time
-have to go for several jobs to a overhauling company (like myself) for the expensive-machinery-work

In the end youll be saving a couple of grand i think.

Then a few remarks:
-what are shortblocks (and are there also tall blocks?) and what are the differences
-I thought because the 603 is a iron cast block, you dont need liners, just oversized pistons. ( a nephew of my woman is the main man for boring and honing cilinders at the company where i worked, I also can ask him why)

dieseldiehard · #14 01-16-2006, 05:29 PM

you all are wasting time on the subject of HGV's query re: rebuilding a 603, that was in 2003 and since then he had the engine stolen from his mechanics garage parking lot!

h46fixers asked about a rebuilt TURBO, and Brian's recommendations are good.
I've used Majestic in Waco (not the one in Dallas) and next time I will plan to give any business to Forced Performance, unless I try to DIY.

Hatterasguy · #15 01-16-2006, 05:30 PM

Shortblock= just the engine block with pistons crank ect already installed.
Longblock=same as above but with head and usually IP
Crate engine= new everything alt, waterpump, injectors, ect. Plug and play option.

The 603 uses sleeves, if you are going through the trouble of a rebuild you might as well install new sleeves along with the pistons. The new sleeves will need to be honed and bored.