adjusted alda, destroyed car. HELP!! - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

JimZ · #1 12-14-2006, 07:20 PM

Well, I read a few threads on here about adjusting the alda for less smoke. My car HAD an almost constant stream of smoke, so I figured adjusting the alda was a good idea, as many attested to the positive effect it had. I popped the plastic cover off, then tore at the surrounding metal with needle nose pliers until I had room to get at the lock nut. Loosened the lock nut, turned the screw (why FLATHEAD, WHY!) 3/4 turn ccw, then tightened the nut back up. Then I proceeded to drive home. Immediately I noticed a significant decrease in power. There was definitely a significant decrease in smoke, but a REALLY significant decrease in power. I got home and popped the hood, figuring I'd tighten it back up because I'd rather have smoke than no power - by the way, I thought ccw increased the richness of fuel, thereby giving you MORE power?? When I loosened the locking nut, the whole screw, metal surrounding, and washer came out and fell onto the street.

Not having any clue as to how much it should be screwed in, I just screwed it until it wouldn't go anymore. (a true understatement) I figured I test it, loosen it, test it, etc. After I screwed it in as far as it would go, I tested it and had virtually NO power. So, I went out to loosen it, and, here's the kicker, the STUPID FLATHEAD SCREW is stripped. It will not budge. So now it's stuck with no power. What do I do??? I really have no idea at all what I can do at this point, besides wake up early and take the bus to work. Please, help!

Boardmonger · #2 12-14-2006, 07:27 PM

Sounds like time for a new ALDA. Check your local junkyards.

Monomer · #3 12-14-2006, 07:28 PM

set screw falling out = the alda being useless.

It's destroyed. Take it off and run w/o one until you find one (junkyards. e-bay)

JimZ · #4 12-14-2006, 07:29 PM

How do you take it off and once it's off will it have any power?

TheDon · #5 12-14-2006, 07:49 PM

removing it will yield better off the line performance. we had a thread on ALDA removal..

JimZ · #6 12-14-2006, 07:56 PM

Ok, I've been reading the alda removal thread, and the one concern seems to be a safety issue. Everyone keeps saying if you drive correctly without the alda, it's fine. So, once it's out, how am I supposed to drive? Slow pressure on the go pedal? Just don't floor it out of the gate? I'm not sure what to do differently. And, does anyone have any pictures of removing the alda from a 617? The pictures on here are for a 607, which is foreign to me. I'd like to get it out before I leave for work tomorrow. After you unscrew it and take it out, what has to be plugged, and what do you use to plug it?

TheDon · #7 12-14-2006, 07:57 PM

just drive it like your normaly would. and adjust accordingly.. and you mean a 603.. never heard of a 607

... its basicly the same ordeal in removing... just the ALDA on the 617 is located on top of the IP and might require removing some IP lines

JimZ · #8 12-14-2006, 08:11 PM

sorry, 603. Man, I am totally flustered. Seriously this board has helped me get my rust bucket into decent shape, and this is starting with no prior experience with working on cars. Sometimes I get a little ahead of myself and I wish one of you board members lived close by. Or I wish I could sign up for MB diesel mechanics classes somewhere. You can only learn so much by reading stuff on a computer screen. For instance, I have no clue how to remove IP lines. I could look at it and figure out what's in the way and remove it, but is there anything I need to do when I remove them? Is there any special way to put them back in? etc etc. I wish I had the knowledge you guys have...

JimZ · #9 12-14-2006, 08:25 PM

TheDon-
I saw in the alda removal thread that you were having a tough time getting it off your 617. Any tips?

#10 12-14-2006, 11:27 PM

Spray the joint with WD40 or PB Blaster.

vstech · #11 12-15-2006, 07:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JimZ

I have no clue how to remove IP lines. I could look at it and figure out what's in the way and remove it, but is there anything I need to do when I remove them? Is there any special way to put them back in? etc etc. I wish I had the knowledge you guys have...

simple.
17MM wrench, loosen the nuts on each end of the lines and remove. some take the guide clamps or whatever they are off so the lines can be removed individually, but it all goes back together fine if you remove them all together.
putting them back on is just as easy. thread by hand each nut until all nuts are threaded on, then tighten the IP side first, bleed and bleed until no air comes out of the injector side, and then tighten them up.
JOhn

Shorebilly · #12 12-15-2006, 08:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vstech

simple.
17MM wrench, loosen the nuts on each end of the lines and remove. some take the guide clamps or whatever they are off so the lines can be removed individually, but it all goes back together fine if you remove them all together.
putting them back on is just as easy. thread by hand each nut until all nuts are threaded on, then tighten the IP side first, bleed and bleed until no air comes out of the injector side, and then tighten them up.
JOhn

In all actuality....it requires a 17mm, 1/2" drive, crowfoot line socket wrench....MB Part # 0000 589 68 03 00......you can probably get one from Hazet or Snap-On as well.......this tool allows use of your trusty torque wrench.....when reassembling the FI lines......there are torque values for those nuts......do not overtighten your FI lines, or I promise you that you will be right back here knocking the German Engineering and whining about leaks....

Line wrenches are kinda like box wrenches, except they are cut open enough to allow fitting over the line, and grab the nut at more points...ninimizing chances of slippage and screwing up the hexes on the nuts....

Now to the basic reason for this thread.....a screwed up ALDA.....I have been trying to politely say "if you don't know what the F**k you're doing...keep your hands off of the Fuel Injection Pump"

Perhaps I am just cautious, but I have a degree in Marine Engineering, 25 years of experience in Ship Propulsion operation and maintenance.....10 of those years on German built Diesel Ships, after my retirement I worked as a FI Tech at a Bosch Certified FI calibration shop.....and my ALDA still has it's factory seal, all of the little paint/seal marks on the stuff that you are not supposed to mess with......that's why they painted and sealed all of that stuff.....so that MB and Bosch could void any warranty if they are screwed with....anyhoo, I would not adjust my own FI Pump because I do not own the expensive equipment required and necessary to do the job properly!!!

I must say that, I mean no offence to anyone here......just know and be aware of your limits......

SB

vstech · #13 12-15-2006, 09:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shorebilly

In all actuality....it requires a 17mm, 1/2" drive, crowfoot line socket wrench....MB Part # 0000 589 68 03 00......you can probably get one from Hazet or Snap-On as well.......this tool allows use of your trusty torque wrench.....when reassembling the FI lines......there are torque values for those nuts......do not overtighten your FI lines, or I promise you that you will be right back here knocking the German Engineering and whining about leaks....

Line wrenches are kinda like box wrenches, except they are cut open enough to allow fitting over the line, and grab the nut at more points...ninimizing chances of slippage and screwing up the hexes on the nuts....

Hmm, good call about the line/flare wrench crowsfoot. most likely a usefull tool to have. I did all three of my 617 vehicle's Injector lines with a standard flare wrench where I could, and used an open end where I couldn't. no leaks. however, I am a seasoned mechanic, so I probably can feel the "correct" amount of torque with my hands. all you newbies to wrenching, aught to follow the above advice.
John