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  #1  
Old 12-20-2006, 11:55 PM
Lost in the "O" Zone
 
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606 Delivery Valve Re-Gasket

Hi everyone, I just finished putting new O-rings and crush washers in Fritz. I have enclosed a few pictures that might help anyone doing this themselves. It will help to have a good thin pair of needle nose pliers to hold the spring in place when you go back together with the valve.606 Delivery Valve Re-Gasket-hpim0186.jpg

I didn't remove the plastic part that has the glow plug wires in it so mine took a little longer.
606 Delivery Valve Re-Gasket-hpim0189.jpg
This is a picture of the valve and internals, I want to apologize for the poor quality of the picture, but I think you get the idea.
606 Delivery Valve Re-Gasket-hpim0191.jpg
This is a view from above, make sure the crush washer stays on the plunger, I had one slip and almost didn't catch it.
Spend the money and get a cheap set of tubing wrenches. The nuts on the fuel lines are 9/16", and you should be able to get a wrench for less than 10 bucks. It will make that job easier.
While I had the manifold off, I checked the glow plugs also and they all checked OK, thank goodness.
I don't know what everyone uses when they reassemble the manifold, but I have found a dow corning high vacuum grease that works well as a lubricant for the O-rings.
I suspect I over torqued my valves, I read in another thread they were supposed to be 45 foot pounds. I am pretty sure I exceeded 50. I guess we will see how long it lasts.
Sorry for the length, sometimes I get on a roll.
Thanks
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  #2  
Old 12-21-2006, 02:44 AM
Jay Jay is offline
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Thanks, friend. What was the problem that brought on the need for this repair? Fuel leak???? How much did the parts cost, if I may ask, and where did you buy them? Jay
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  #3  
Old 12-21-2006, 09:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NewBenzOwner View Post
Spend the money and get a cheap set of tubing wrenches. The nuts on the fuel lines are 9/16", and you should be able to get a wrench for less than 10 bucks. It will make that job easier.
While I had the manifold off, I checked the glow plugs also and they all checked OK, thank goodness.
I suspect I over torqued my valves, I read in another thread they were supposed to be 45 foot pounds. I am pretty sure I exceeded 50. I guess we will see how long it lasts.
Glad that everything worked out for you. I would suggest though that you spend your money on metric tools as the 9/16" wrench is larger than the 14mm tubing nuts.

Would suck to round them off.

I'm also extremely careful when I torque anything into aluminum as it isn't as forgiving as cast iron or steel. Are you sure about the 45 ft/lbs? I thought it was less than that and involved a multi-step seating/torque procedure? I can break out my copy of WIS if you want to know the specifics. Let me know.

Did the splined delivery valves "bark" when you removed them? Mine were in so tight that I expected the pump housing to crack while I was removing them.
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Old 12-21-2006, 09:54 AM
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I think you way over tightened them careful you dont want screw this part up will cause nailing ! its two stage tightening process i believe 30 nm then 33nm
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  #5  
Old 12-21-2006, 10:38 AM
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I have seen the MB workshop manual instructions for torquing the delivery valves and it says 30NM, loosen, 30NM, loosen, then 35NM. I used 30, 30 and 35. That's a lot less than 45 ft-lbs.
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Old 12-21-2006, 10:44 AM
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Ya'll are right. The manual that MB DOC put up states 35 Nm.
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Old 12-21-2006, 10:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by engatwork View Post
Ya'll are right. The manual that MB DOC put up states 35 Nm.
Yes, that one, interestingly, says just 35NM, whereas in the past I have seen the manual which has the 3 stage torque procedure...apparently MB goes back and forth on this but MB DOC's post is from a 2006 WIS so I would use that one, until they revise it again, that is.

FWIW mine were A LOT tighter than that when I removed them...I had to practically use a breaker bar to get them free! I was afraid the splined socket would round over the splines on the delivery valves they were so darn tight.
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Old 12-21-2006, 11:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nhdoc View Post
Yes, that one, interestingly, says just 35NM, whereas in the past I have seen the manual which has the 3 stage torque procedure...apparently MB goes back and forth on this but MB DOC's post is from a 2006 WIS so I would use that one, until they revise it again, that is.
On pes4m pumps(w110,115)-it`s a 3-step procedure:
45Nm-slacken
45Nm-slacken
45+5Nm.
That`s waht the 1968 revision engine manual says....
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  #9  
Old 12-21-2006, 07:38 PM
Lost in the "O" Zone
 
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The reason for repair was a leak, enough that it was very obvious where it was coming from. The seals didn't bark when they were removed, but were very tight, I had to use a breaker bar to remove them. I ordered all the parts including the special socket from Phil. He was very helpful. The total was about $75 but that included the socket which was $55. I also had a couple of other things in the order so it was less than $20 for the O-rings and crush washers.
The american wrenches fit better than the metric ones, so I used them. Phil told me that the 9/16 was the size and he was right. I would agree that if the metric wrench fit better I would use it, but it didn't. Where I am at least the third owner of this car, could they have been replaced?
My torque wrench doesn't read in Nm and I had no manual, kind of flying by the seat of my pants. What would the ft-lbs be for 45Nm? It sure was tight.
I have some other pictures, but they didn't go over, if I can figure out how to get them to the forum, I will.
I did drive Fritz today, and had no problems, maybe I got lucky.
I'll bet the mechanic gods, like to help a loser sometimes.
I appreciate all the information.
Thanks
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  #10  
Old 12-21-2006, 10:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NewBenzOwner View Post
The american wrenches fit better than the metric ones, so I used them. Phil told me that the 9/16 was the size and he was right. I would agree that if the metric wrench fit better I would use it, but it didn't. Where I am at least the third owner of this car, could they have been replaced?
My torque wrench doesn't read in Nm and I had no manual, kind of flying by the seat of my pants. What would the ft-lbs be for 45Nm?
I can assure you that Mercedes doesn't use american sizes and I encourage you to invest in some good metric tools. You want a tight fit on fittings you can't completely encircle with a socket or a box wrench and a 14mm will grip a LOT tighter than 9/16".

45 Newton Meters equals 33.2 foot pounds. You are way, way too tight.

I hope you lucked out and didn't damage anything. Good luck in your future endeavors.
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  #11  
Old 12-21-2006, 11:04 PM
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The correct torque for the delivery valves is 35NM which is about 26 ft-lbs, you used 45 ft-lbs which substantially higher but I bet it will be fine anyway. If I were you I'd just leave it be and if it has to be done over because of leaks then use the correct spec next time. Mine were also WAY tighter than 26 ft-lbs when I cracked mine open and I think they were original from the factory that way which tells me they cranked those suckers down real tight when they made them. It lasted 9+ years before leaking so you'll probably have that long if not longer to forget about it all...drive and enjoy it.
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  #12  
Old 12-22-2006, 07:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NewBenzOwner View Post
The american wrenches fit better than the metric ones, so I used them. Phil told me that the 9/16 was the size and he was right. I would agree that if the metric wrench fit better I would use it, but it didn't.
Your metric tools were either poor quality, or the wrong size. Mercedes are German mate.
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  #13  
Old 12-22-2006, 08:28 PM
Lost in the "O" Zone
 
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The tube wrenches were inexpensive, They fit well with no rounding. I do have a complete set of metric wrenches and SAE. They are called Crescent, and come in many different sizes. They make speed wrenches too, some people call them pliers.
Just kidding, I just went out and compared the tubing wrench size to a 14MM wrench and it is slightly smaller. Someone that has a 14MM nut might try and see how it fits a 9/16 wrench.
BTW, why would tightening the valves too much cause nailing? I thought that was a function of the timing of the pump.
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