You did use an "alignment" tool when torquing down the pressure plate, OK. put the tranny in gear and gently turn it back and forth while pushing gently too align the splines, making sure the bell housing is square with the engine. I'm not sure what you mean about "how close should the tranny come to the engine compartment when reinstalling it"

So to replace a clutch I need a pressure plate, clutch, pilot bearing, rent pilot bearing removal tool, and a clutch alignment tool? Plus some various sockets and wrenches.

Also is there anyway to check if my synchros are bad while I'm doing this?

I use a transmission jack some folks just "mussel' it around but I'm and old guy;) I just made a "cradle" that fits the bottom contour (roughly) of the tranny, that fits on a floor jack.

Also just unbolt the clutch slave and wire it out of the way, saves bleeding later.

Anyone have a pic of the clutch disc installed in the proper orientation, or know the consequences if it's in backwards? I lost track during my clutch job and flipped a coin.

Oh yah, I remember that problem:o , like the cam sprocket:D, I found a picture someplace, hopefully someone will have one handy as I dont remember where it was.

This is very helpful thanks for taking the time to post this.

FYI, if you are going along doing this, and you lost or someone who works with you stole your clutch alignment tool when you get to that point, you can make an alignment tool out of available sockets, an extension, and electrical tape. I found that the outside of a craftsman 10mm or 11mm deep socket is a spot on match for the inside diameter of the pilot bearing. I then found another short socket whose outside diameter matched the inside of the clutch, yet gripped the 10mm and taped it all together. Worked perfectly in a pinch if you don't have the alignment tool at the moment of getting it back together and it needs to be done ASAP.

an old mechanics trick for removing the PB... fill it with grease, and drive in a drift punch that fits the ID...
the clutch alignment tool can work if it's not plastic and can take a bit of hammering.

Helpful post of replacing the clutch on a 240D. I've had my 82 240D 8 years now and the clutch is still good, and I've done a couple of clutches before, but your instructions with pictures is very helpful. Thanks

Here's a hypothetical question: Suppose I neglected to mark the orientation of the flywheel before removing it. It came out somewhat abruptly after removing the last bolt. . .How big of a potential problem is this??

Some F/Ws and crank shafts were balanced together some were not. If you find NO witness marks that line up on the F/W and crank they were balanced independently and it doesn't matter, if you find marks, line them up, either way, your good to go. They are not easy to see so use sand paper around the edge of the center hole of the F/W. What car are you working on, a 240D?

yes. 240d

Found the marks. That's awesome!

Hey Roy Do you have that sticky parts # list for the job?