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  #1  
Old 01-16-2007, 10:11 PM
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Glowplugs...

Is it easier to remove the fuel injector lines before removing glow plugs? And am I correct in assuming that you do not have to bleed the line as is done when changing the fuel filter?
Would leaving the ignition switch on cause glow plug failure?

Thanks for all the help
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  #2  
Old 01-16-2007, 10:22 PM
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Fuel injection lines???

What happened to the headlights??

Yes, I recommend that you remove the hard lines when doing glow plugs. It takes about 10 minutes and your hands will thank you for it.

A couple of caveats:

1) Don't overtighten the nuts when you reinstall. They don't need much torque to seal and most folks go crazy with too much torque.

2) Don't even think of using a wrench to reinstall until you've started the nuts by hand and are positive that they are started. If they don't line up........bend them into place before starting the nut. Tighten the nuts on the IP first and then install and tighten the nuts on the injectors.

3) When you go to start it, there will be no fuel in the lines. Mash you right foot on the floor and hold the key in the start position. It should start within 15 seconds.

4) Cover the outlet ports on the IP when the lines are off. You don't want any foreign material dropping in there. It will plug the injectors for sure.


Leaving the ignition switch on will not cause glow plug failure. The plugs shut down after about 35 seconds or as soon as you turn the key to the start position.
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  #3  
Old 01-18-2007, 10:14 PM
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When removing the hard lines, should I remove the bracket that connects two lines before removing the hard lines or does it matter? I have also heard that carbon buildup may be present after removal of the glow plugs, what is needed to remove carbon build up?

Thanks
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  #4  
Old 01-18-2007, 10:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KRGC View Post
When removing the hard lines, should I remove the bracket that connects two lines before removing the hard lines or does it matter? I have also heard that carbon buildup may be present after removal of the glow plugs, what is needed to remove carbon build up?

Thanks
No,
keep the lines connected together. it makes it easier to reassemble. and it keeps them together so you don't have to guess much which lines go where.
if worse comes to worse, loosen the brackets to get the lines connected to the IP and the injectors.
John
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  #5  
Old 01-18-2007, 10:37 PM
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I can change five glow plugs on a 617 in 61 minutes. That is just using a box end wrench. Fuel lines still in place.
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  #6  
Old 01-18-2007, 10:39 PM
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I still think removing the lines would be an easier way to go.
What about the carbon buildup?
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  #7  
Old 01-18-2007, 10:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Carlton View Post
Fuel injection lines???
Leaving the ignition switch on will not cause glow plug failure. The plugs shut down after about 35 seconds or as soon as you turn the key to the start position.
MB FSM :
15.8-705/6 F3

"When the key is turned into position " 3" ( start ) the power relay - activated by terminal 50 - remains in energized condition. The glow process continues until the key is turned to position " 2" ."
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  #8  
Old 01-18-2007, 10:56 PM
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There's a glow plug reamer to remove the carbon.
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  #9  
Old 01-18-2007, 11:30 PM
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KRGC, I think Brian is right on about removing the injector lines first. I did it the hard way and it took me a couple of hours with a lot of aggrivation I starting out with a box end wrench (which was really a pain because of the limited access) and eventually purchased a set of those cool ratcheting wrenches with the tilt heads to finish the job
It would have been much easier to take the lines off first. my biggest challenge was removing and installing the terminal nuts on the plugs without dropping them into the abyss between the block and IP! In the end, I found that using a 6 -8 inch long piece of rubber hose to grab the nut while was a real lifesaver. Good Luck.
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  #10  
Old 01-19-2007, 12:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1985Az300DTurbo View Post
KRGC, I think Brian is right on about removing the injector lines first. I did it the hard way and it took me a couple of hours with a lot of aggrivation I starting out with a box end wrench (which was really a pain because of the limited access) and eventually purchased a set of those cool ratcheting wrenches with the tilt heads to finish the job
It would have been much easier to take the lines off first. my biggest challenge was removing and installing the terminal nuts on the plugs without dropping them into the abyss between the block and IP! In the end, I found that using a 6 -8 inch long piece of rubber hose to grab the nut while was a real lifesaver. Good Luck.
Fill the abyss with rags so you wont lose your nuts.
I did mine without removing the injector lines. It wasn't that hard but the sharp corners on the line holders can be irritating. It might be adequate just to remove the holders to minimize the vocabulary necessary for the job.
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  #11  
Old 01-19-2007, 12:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leathermang View Post
MB FSM :
15.8-705/6 F3

"When the key is turned into position " 3" ( start ) the power relay - activated by terminal 50 - remains in energized condition. The glow process continues until the key is turned to position " 2" ."
..........or until 35 seconds have elapsed.........whichever comes first.

When are you finally going to realize that the manual is not absolutely perfect in all respects?
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  #12  
Old 01-19-2007, 08:27 PM
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I found it much easier to remove the hard lines.

On the subject of glow plugs, does anyone torque them? The Haynes manual says something like 30ft-lbs but that seems really high to me. My mechanic says go easy on them when tightening down. That and I'm not sure if I could get a torque wrench down in there anyway...

Rob
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