I took one out of a yard car. I wanted one quick. I really have no guarantee that the pin is %100, but its better than my silver one was.

For $27 bucks I think it would be worth it to invest in a new one, ensuring you have a fresh spring.

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'85 300D, 'Lance',250k, ... winter beater (100k on franken-Frybrid 3 Valve Kit)
'82 300D, 'Tex', 228k body / 170k engine ... summer car
'83 300TD Cali Wagon 210k, wife's car

I was talking to the indy I go to when a job is over my head. He told me it controls the fuel pressure, and if I decide to play with it, mark where it was set so I can get it back there if needed. They set the pressure at the factory. From what I have read, the original pin had a weak spring and the replacement corrects that problem. So it sounds like if you are getting one from the junkyard, make sure it is the replacement. For the price, time invested in getting it from the junkyard, and risk of it being worn out, personally I would go with a new one. I have been burned too many times with trying to save a few bucks at the junkyard on a critical part. Heck, it costs less than a fillup now.

Here is one I found with some info: http://**************.com/search/node/rack+damper

If anyone has had problems with this parts source, please let me know. I looked at Fastlane's parts catalogue first but did not see it listed.

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85 300D 75K Anthracite Grey 0-60 in 13 seconds **For Sale**
84 300D 333K Black (The Velveteen Rabbit) 0-60 in 14 seconds
00 Toyota Sienna 208K (Sold)
15 Subaru Outback 43K
11 Subaru Outback 67K
98 Ford Taurus 100K (Gertie - Was Grandma's - drove it to church and shopping - really) Daughter's car now.
30 Model A Ford 2 Door Sedan (Sold) 0-60 in . . . Never reached 60

Your Indy is not correct concerning the Rack Damper Bolt controlling the fuel pressure. The fuel injection pressure is controlled by the Pop Pressure of each of your injectors and the pressure from the Fuel Supply Pump is controlled by the Overflow valve on the side of the Fuel Injection Pump Housing.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Well, so much for his opinion. From the shape of it, like a needle valve, it looks like it would control flow of fuel somewhere along the path of fuel delivery.

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85 300D 75K Anthracite Grey 0-60 in 13 seconds **For Sale**
84 300D 333K Black (The Velveteen Rabbit) 0-60 in 14 seconds
00 Toyota Sienna 208K (Sold)
15 Subaru Outback 43K
11 Subaru Outback 67K
98 Ford Taurus 100K (Gertie - Was Grandma's - drove it to church and shopping - really) Daughter's car now.
30 Model A Ford 2 Door Sedan (Sold) 0-60 in . . . Never reached 60

The rack damper is exactly what its name suggests, it dampens the rack. Its a mini shock absorber that keeps the fuel rack from vibrating at idle and making the engine shake.

I've spent the last, what 20 minutes fumbling with it... no matter which way I go with the lame, short 12mm wrench, It will not back out...


I hate the rack dampner bolt... I can't get enough throw on the wrench to back it out at all.. Lowes didn't have a long enough 12 mm, they sold one that was shorter than the craftsman I already have! I'm not driving 45 minutes for a bloody wrench that sears probably wont be able to find for me. I'll have my mechanic do it.

Get a gear (ratchet) wrench for about $12. The 12mm gear wrench also makes changing glowplugs much easier.

I got it out without the gear wrench, But I would like some in the usual sizes.

can someone please post a picture of the rack dampner and where it is on the ip.
thanks

Start looking in the space between the IP and the oil filter. It's screwed into the IP, in its rear. Can't miss it.

A nice big picture would help us newbies,and a part number too,thanks.

Try this link: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/attachments/diesel-discussion/42618d1174877713-so-what-does-rack-damper-bolt-617-actually-do-rack-damper-gold-silver.jpg

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85 300D 75K Anthracite Grey 0-60 in 13 seconds **For Sale**
84 300D 333K Black (The Velveteen Rabbit) 0-60 in 14 seconds
00 Toyota Sienna 208K (Sold)
15 Subaru Outback 43K
11 Subaru Outback 67K
98 Ford Taurus 100K (Gertie - Was Grandma's - drove it to church and shopping - really) Daughter's car now.
30 Model A Ford 2 Door Sedan (Sold) 0-60 in . . . Never reached 60

Try part # 0000742674.
In the pic, the top one, gold color, are the new ones, they have a stronger spring. It does not come with the lock nut, or "o" ring, the latter of which is not on either one.

Attached Thumbnails

 

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83 SD

84 CD

On a sticker on the bag mine dampner pin came in is as stated by Hunter part number (Mercedes 000-074-26-74) and inside of the bag is a paper tag with the Bosch part number# 1 420 560 014 000 (the company that made the rack dampner pin).

The things that when corrected had the most/best effect on curing shaking at idle for me: Installing new injector nozzles/tested/balanced and next was finding and fixing an air leak caused by hard fuel hoses down by the primary filter. (Previously the engine shook at cold and hot idle after Injectors fixed cured 80% of that.) (Fixing the air leak cured about 10% more of the hot idle shake.)

Helped but not as much: new Rack Damper screw and new Motor mounts with 1 new engine shock.
The Rack Damper screw by itself had only slight effect and it was hard to find that "sweet spot" where it did anything.
I changed the Motor Mounts many months after installing the Rack Damper Screw. After they were change I re-adjusted the Rack Damper Screw it was easier to find the "sweet spot" and the effect was greater.
My car still shakes just a little more than I would like. I have not yet checked the IP timing and I am hoping that will also have a (+) effect on reducing idle shaking.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

question...

and it might be dumb...


should that locking nut be transferred over to the new bolt?

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(4/11/2020: Hi Everyone! I am still taking orders and replying to emails/PMs/etc, I appreciate your patience in these crazy times. Stay safe and healthy!)


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