An 85TD has the newer style vacuum pump that doesn't have the hose going to the air filter, so I don't think it could be sucking oil via a broken vacuum pump diaphragm.
Checking to see if oil could be getting into the intake via another route might be useful. For instance, doesn't the oil separator return tube have a one way valve where it enters the pan? A failure in that valve may allow oil to get sucked up into the intake? I think that possibility has been discussed before on the forum.
Yes, unburned engine oil puts out big clouds of white smoke. I had the PCV system on a 67 Sprite fail, allowing engine oil to be sucked directly into the manifold. The amount of smoke it put out was a sight to see.

__________________
1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

So, does the clack, clack, clack go away after warmup? Can you tell where it's coming from? If the smooke and sound are not related I would suggest valve stem seals, but it also doesn't sound like it's oil smoke. But I think the two are related, and I think it sounds like fuel smoke because of the description of the "gassy residue". I would consider having injectors pop tested. And while you have fuel lines off I would do a rough test of IP timing by doing the spit or well up method. Search here for IP timing and you'll find a bunch of stuff. I would then consider removing and inspecting the chain tensioner and rails. Also, are you sure you have good fuel and fuel delivery? Maybe do the bottle fuel cell under the hood to rule out those two things. I saw a video (maybe on Dieselgiant's website, can't remember) of a SD that got bad fuel and it blew white smoke like a MONSTER! Good luck!

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1998 E300D, 287k, barely broken in.

Hey, did you ever get the problem solved? I have been seeing more white smoke and rough idle and would love to know what to do. i am not loosing significant oil or coolant.

so far:
fuel filters
reman. injectors

next:
glowplugs?

Crack each of your injectors lines one at a time when the car is running and see if the idle changes with each injector. If it does not change with one you have a miss on that cyl.

__________________
1979 240D- 316K miles - VGT Turbo, Intercooler, Stick Shift, Many Other Mods - Daily Driver

1982 300SD - 232K miles - Wife's Daily Driver

1986 560SL - Wife's red speed machine

Hi all!

The Clacking sounds like a valve train problem which could certainly cause the unburned fuel/white smoke problem. I would check the valves pronto. While you are in there, pay attention to the cam lobes. Are they all there? Are they all the same height? A flat lobe on an intake valve would cause the clacking, and prevent the affected cylinder from ingesting enough air to make enough compression to ignite the fuel.

Black smoke comes from fuel that ignited, but did not have enough air to burn completly. White smoke comes from fuel that did not ignite at all, or water of course!

The power balance test suggested by BGKast will reveal the dead cylinder, but only pulling the cam cover and a compression test will tell you the rest.

Good Luck! I hope she's OK.
Cheers Chris

well, original poster / thread starter here.
checkin' back in.
i have NOT gotten the problem resolved. i haven't really been driving the car for fear of doing damage, as it still SMOKES THE WHOLE STREET at startup and acceleration when cold, and smokes gently when warm.

what i've done recently is:
*adjusted the valves (they were all way too tight (not enough clearance)) *confirmed by cracking each of the injector lines that cracking each DID dramatically affect idle/running.
*ran a can of diesel purge through

I can also confirm that the problem's not this particular tank of fuel, as she did it throughout a road trip with many different fuel sources. And, i can verify that (as the guy i bought her from recently said), all the injectors have been very recently replaced (with bosch remans) in a failed effort to correct the problem.

SO.

...i'm still desperate for advice. would Griesl's recommended IP timing check or chris's cam lobe theory account for how much the smoke dissapates when she's warm?

__________________
-lee
'83 300CDT (286k)

former proud owner of:
'85 mercedes euro 300TD
'80 mercedes 300TD
'77 mercedes 280e
'80 mercedes euro 250
'82 mercedes euro 250

I'm wondering how the guy 'boiled' the head or whatever he did to it without taking out the heat shields. Oh well. Anyway, remanned heads ain't cheap. I just did a head from Metric Motors for, oh, 'bout 1,600. The car is in really good shape--the AC even works, so I thought it worth it. I've not read all the way to the beginning so I don't know if you've done it yet, but if not, I would check compression both dry and wet. If those numbers are different, I would blow some compressed air in each hole and see where it's leaking. It's called a leakdown test. I did the poor man's leakdown with a 1/4 ball valve and adapter to the compression guage fitting. Good luck!

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1998 E300D, 287k, barely broken in.

Hi,

Just thought I'd chime in after you PM'd me. I never solved my smoking wagon problem but I think if you do a compression test (forgive me if you have already done this and posted numbers...I didn't see them when I scanned through the last few months of posts) we could get a better handle on what is going on.

We're all very experienced with smoke...JimmyL for example. He's got the greatest photos around here. You would think he was hired by West Nile Virus control. I felt bad till I saw his 123! Solving smoke can be tough especially when it is in the form of an OM617 with 400K+ on it. Check your compression...it may not be a happy answer, but at least you'll know where to focus efforts.

I bought the smoking diesel solutions book from mercedes source and went through their whole list of things (you've done some like the valve adj, injector removal and test etc.). The list goes from easy to hard: purging, filters, new tank of fuel, valve adj, timing, egr, blow-by, pcv valve, air filter, turbo bearings/seals...etc. to compression). Would you know it, my car had marginal compression in all cylinders and terrible compression in #1. I opened my engine and the #1 ring was cracked. I replaced it and put it all back together and the engine had a ton more compression (it was tough to crank using the power steering pulley ). But it still smoked. Grey smoke. Then I got a new kind of smoke on my test drive...dashboard smoke. I quit. Sold the 300td and kept the old faithful 240d.

So I'd say cut to the chase and get the Harbor Freight compression tester. I bought it when it was $125, not $20. Well, I guess I can test Cummins and John Deeres and Olivers now.

I learned the hard way that reringing isn't all that smart. If you look at the bore specs and piston to wall specs for the OM617 you will never get there with new rings alone. I had to ream out a deep ridge just to get the piston out and that basically means you're never going to "grow" your piston to fill the gap. These diesels are tight!!!! I was seriously wishful but wishes didn't cut it.

The only thing I didn't try in that little book was the IP test. I just cut straight to compression then gave up. The 300TD had a funky head for the leveling pump and it wasn't easy to find a non-turbo sedan with this head. With 400k on the plant, I would start my search for a wrecked 300d or 300sd you can pull the engine from. It takes time but they do come up. A nice one came up on a pallet in San Francisco two months after I sold the wagon from a guy who just wanted to clear his storage locker - it was $1800 . Oh well.

Good luck,
Yoko

Sounds like a nightmare thats hard to wake up from

400,000 miles
acid head job



If you can prove it..get a notorized statement from the old owner & the date he sold it to them.
Confront them
See if they will make some restitution... if not
I'd report that dealer who rolled back that odometer

Yikes



Good luck with resolving the problem within a reasonable budget.
Guess it depends on the condition of it orherwise & how much you want it...

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83 500 SEC Euro 198K

thanks for keeping up with this.

there HAS been some progress, (if you can call it that )

compression test, photos, and whatnot posted HERE.

input would be VERY welcomed!
CAMELOT: is there something about the Acid Head Job that makes it a particular nightmare? is there a particular effect they have?

__________________
-lee
'83 300CDT (286k)

former proud owner of:
'85 mercedes euro 300TD
'80 mercedes 300TD
'77 mercedes 280e
'80 mercedes euro 250
'82 mercedes euro 250

Sorry to post to to this old thread but it's the only one I found. Yesterday I bought a second-hand car and after some 200km, in the middle of nowhere it started to blow whitish smoke (a little out of the engine block too) and go 'clack clack clack'. I've seen quite a few smoking cars here in South Africa but never like that. We looked like a low flying pesticide plane and whenever we stopped we were immediately engulfed in smoke.
I called the previous owner's mechanic and he told me that it must be the injector nuzzle but that we should go on. Towing companies have a bad reputation here. So we drove another 100km and towards the end used about a liter of diesel every 2km. The car still had power and under load the clacking subsided - not the smoke though. It's done and there wasn't really an alternative to driving on but now we are concerned that the extra 100km might have done a lot of damage. Assuming that it is the injector nuzzle do you think we hurt the engine badly? I'm still clueless when it comes to cars and I cannot bare waiting for a mechanic's verdict next week.

hcvst,
Welcome!!
we are a friendly group & will always do our best to help.
White/grey smoke can be caused by injector problems. A dribbling injector can cause it. Also a low blow pressure injector will. Given that you are using fuel at a fast rate, it would appear to be a fuel related problem. It is unlikely that you have done terminal damage to it.
Does the car run rough at idle?
If it does you can try cracking each of the hard line attachments to the injectors & see if one does not change the running. That would identify the problem one.
May be better to just have all the injectors tested.
Has the oil level gone up?
If it has its probably contaminated with diesel.
Knowing what model car would allow more suggestions.

Good luck with your new car.

__________________
Grumpy Old Diesel Owners Club group

I no longer question authority, I annoy authority. More effect, less effort....

1967 230-6 auto parts car. rust bucket.
1980 300D now parts car 800k miles
1984 300D 500k miles
1987 250td 160k miles English import
2001 jeep turbo diesel 130k miles
1998 jeep tdi ~ followed me home. Needs a turbo.
1968 Ford F750 truck. 6-354 diesel conversion.
Other toys ~J.D.,Cat & GM ~ mainly earth moving

Thank you. Let me drive to the airport and check out what I can and post to the open forum as per Army's suggestion. The oil level was a little high even before it started smoking, but gauges for oil pressure and temperature looked good all the way. Really got to learn how this machine works and how to fix things. Feeling less stressed already, Thanks!

I'm sorry to add to the panic but you really need to check the cooling system at the very least - make sure you've got enough coolant in there before you drive anywhere. If I were you I wouldn't drive it until I'd had it checked by a reliable someone who can tell you if it is safe to drive. Your fuel consumption sounds almost unbelievable - if you are using what you say you are there isn't a leak then something is seriously wrong.

Most of the good advice on this forum is probably still in bed - the majority of members are in the USA. However there is one bloke who might be about online in Australia who might know more => PM layback40

(PM = private message => click on Private Messages top right hand corner of your screen)

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!